How to replace rear electric window regulator W210

brandwooddixon

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At some time or another you may find that your rear electric window(s) stop working. Usually this is due to failure of the pulley system rather than the motor itself. MB tried to improve the situation by redesigning the motor and pulley system as time went by.

You are advised to check with your dealer whether your regulator utilizes the old or the new motor engagement, as if it uses the old one then you will need a new motor as well (MB can only supply the new system). This is easily determined from your VIN.

Parts:
A210 7301646 offside rear regulator - no motor - approx: £70 from MB
A210 7301546 nearside rear regulator - no motor.

4x 3/16" Pop rivets.

Tools:

Pop riveter.
5mm or 3/16" drill bit and drill.
Sticky tape.
Phillips and flat head screw driver medium size.

First we need to remove the door card. This is held in place by 6 pop type clips around left, right and bottom edges; two failrly chunky, phillips screws and a lip along the top edge which clips in by the window rubber. See the picture below.
3687954974_aa5a4ef0e6.jpg
 
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brandwooddixon

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You'll need to remove the screw and cover near the door lock:
3687955312_69d81cdf43_m.jpg


Prise off the cover behind the lock release lever:

3687955192_435e407ff8.jpg


And remove the screw that is then visible.
Prise off the cover below the door grab handle and undo the screw there.
Using the flat bladed screw driver gently pop the fixings out that are hidden under the trim and around the door edge as marked.
 
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brandwooddixon

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Gentlly ease the bottom of the door card out an inch or so, and starting at the end nearest the door lock lift the card up so that it is realeased from the half dozen or so clips along the top edge.

You'll only be able to move it a few inches from the door as the trim will be held back by the electric connection to the window switch. Reach inside and release the connector.
Similarly, prise the courtesy light out of the bottom of the door card and disconnect it.
You don't need to disconnect the lock release cable, but you should now be able to swing the door card away from the door and place it resting against the door itself where its ia out of your way.

If your window has failed in the down position then the next step is easier.
You'll see that there is a white block that slides into a channel along the bottom edge of the window glass. This is held in place by a black U shaped clip that fits up through the bottom of the channel and keeps the square block from sliding too far. Use a flat baded scrrewdriver to push each end in towards the block and remove this.

Next. Firmly grip the glass and slide it closed if possible. Fix it in place by afixing some tape to the glass on one side and over the top of the door to the other.

Carefully drill out the four rivets shown below. I drilled enough metal away to use a small chisel to cut the heads off myself.

3687151511_a6ac6ef22e.jpg
 
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brandwooddixon

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Disconnect the large connector from the motor and remove the motor and regulator.

Here is what my old system and the new regulaor look like. Not the subtle differences in the regulators.

3687151791_7636739902.jpg


Using a T30 torx bit remove the two screws holding the motor to the regulator. Rotate the motor assembly about 30 degrees as shown to remove it.

Fitment is a reversal of this process.

You'll need to use four 3/16" pop rivets to hold the new replacement in place.

Don't forget to apply some white grease to the moving parts before fitting it and a little silicon lubricant to the glass guide channels.

It is easier to locate the white block into the channel on the glass if it is at the bottom position.

Don't forget to fit the black clip.

Oh and don't forget to ensure that the door locking "knob" is through the hole in the top of the card before you give it the finla push down along the top edge when refitting.

Lastly reset the window by holding the switch in the closed position for as couple of seconds (you may hear a quiet click) and also in the fully open position.
 

wireman

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Don't want to be pedantic but its silicone (with an e) grease, there are two basic kinds lubricating and protecting, common types are MS33 (white) for plastic lubrication and MS4 (clear) as a protective and mould release agent, either will work on your job. Mineral greases are absorbed by and will harm many plastics so do use a silicone.

Silicon is a hard solid substance that they make glass and transistors out of.
 
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brandwooddixon

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Boy did you get out of the wrong side of the bed today?

Yes I know what silicon is and in this case isn't. Having a degree in electronics and having worked in the industry I know of the use silicon wafers in microcircuitry and transistors (don't forget Gallium Arsenide or Germanium either).

I'm sure that people will understand what I meant.

Just blame it on keyboard dyslexia just like any other spelling mistakes in my post.
 

louwdj

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Thanks for an informatice piece, well written, good pictures. I for one did not know how to remove the door card on the W210.
 

Dosco

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Good write up Chris and when you have accompanying pictures to guide you it helps even more.

Roger
 

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I will ask anyweb to shift it to the DIY
 

Richie270

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Brandwooddixon, Thanks for that, I just replaced mine, a simple enough job, I carefully re-gooped the plastic rain membrane sheet with some IDL99 as I had no end of trouble with water leaks on a Mk2 Golf, so anyone else doing this might be advised to take a bit of care removing and refitting that sheet. How exactly do I reset the motor to the top and bottom positions?
Thanks
 

Blobcat

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A good write up, I had to replace the regulator on my dad's S-Type yesterday as the cable had come off and wrapped around the motor.

The only change I would seriously recommend is buying some good quality trim tools. Whilst they're not particularly cheap (~£20) they are cheaper than new trim panels and tend not to break the clips or damage the trim.

I have a couple of these Sykes Pickavant trim tools
!Bq-Zw8!CGk~$(KGrHqMOKj8EuhRtcZvhBL)uur!Bvg~~_35.JPG
 

Blobcat

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Now copied to the DIY section :)
 
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brandwooddixon

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How exactly do I reset the motor to the top and bottom positions?
Thanks

I must admit that I don't recall having to do anything other than the standard window position reset.
Hold the window control button down in both the close and open positions until a soft click was heard from the door.
 

Oily Spanners

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W210 rear window regulator repair

Great post.

However a new regulator is quite expensive, when it is only the Nylon slider which breaks.

You can buy all the parts you need from Okzam Auto www.okzam.co.uk for £13 plus post see pic.
mercedes-w210-s210-electric-windows-regulator-rear-right.jpg


This gives you enough bits to make a full or partial repair. I have mended mine (E220) which took about 3hours as it is a bit awkward and needs two people.If you just change the slider it is much easier, but sorting out the cable is:) a fiddle.
Tip: do the bottom cable first then the top. hard work but it is worth it.

They also sell locks and stuff.
:)
 


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