ignition barrel removal

[hugh55]

television sent paper on how to remove barrel i have removed cover from the instrument panel turned key to number 1 position inserted wires into the locking detents bt dont feel any spring resistance does the black metal cover that surrounds the barrel need to come off seperatly or do they both come off together any help would be much appreciated
thanks hugh

 

[television]

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...+++717.412&CT=F&cat=15U&SID=46&SGR=105&SGN=05


Does this help,I have forgoten what car yours is, this is a 124

 

[hugh55]

been 1 of those days television tried ur link but nothing coming up it says cannot find server it is a 230te a w124

 

[television]

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...+++717.413&CT=F&cat=15U&SID=46&SGR=105&SGN=05


It works for me,if you are using Firefox just scroll down

 

[wireman]

You are in for a struggle. They made the locks to be totaly srcote proof and they can be a sod to remove.
You need a good piece of hardish wire 1.8 to 2mm dia, I got mine of a welders merchant (2mm stainless).
Fold a 300mm length in two with a pitch to suit the lock release holes (~20mm).
Trim the ends to equal length and file a flat onto the inside of each leg at about 20 degrees as per haynes book of lies, to a sharp point.
The surface finish must be good on the faces.

Push the tool into the release holes until it releases the lock barrel, you will be able to shift the barrel a little in/out once the catch is found.
Then push the tool in further and find the two catches that hold the black cover cylinder in place (about 5-6mm deeper) and pull back the cover.

At this point the whole assembly should come out with little force required.
If great force seems to be required you have not got the tool into the right spot or in deep enough. pull it back a little wiggle it about to one side/t'other or up/down and try again (and again etc).

Once you have both barrel and cover in your hand you will be able to see why its awkward to remove.

The barrel has a hardened steel spring cilp around its outside which latches in one side, the cover is retained by two half moon die cast lugs in the lock body which are spring loaded to engage in a groove on the inside of the cover, these will want to drop out once the assemby is removed and you could easily loose one of the tiny springs (about 1.5 dia * 8mm long) mind that they don't fall out of place.

I will try to measure the tool incursion depth(s) and report back to you with just how deep the tool inserts on my 1989 124.

Good luck and dont try to force it as the locks obstinance starts to get the better of you, it will win if you do.

 

[wireman]

I have measured the tool incursion, the barrel is released with 33mm of pin and the cover sleeve requires 43mm of pin, it comes to a shoulder at 43mm and will not go in any further, you can not extract the sleeve unless the tool goes in this far.

The wedge end length of my home made wire tool is 6mm long from point to full diameter of the wire, it must have clean edges or it sticks in the holes and graunches in the lock assembly's inards.

Takes 5 mins to remove and replace the lock when the car is willing.

 

[television]

Thank you wireman for the 2 above post, this has been a stumbling block many times, buy you have said why.

 

[anyweb]

any chance you could post a photo or three of the wire wool you made wireman ?

 

[hugh55]

managed to get it off eventully but would not have had a clue how to get it off had it not been for the info i got from this site next stage is to get a new barrel and get it on so cheers all

 

[television]

£47 from MB for a 124, not cheap, Take your details and logbook with you

 

[Bolide]

It's one of those jobs that is a lot easier the second time around

The Haynes manual has spanner ratings for each job. My manual will have !&*%%%€€!!! ratings for the number of swear words required

Lock barrels and front window winder mechanisms will rate very high under this system

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Bolide]

It'll be measured in units of SCW - Standard Cuss Words. I'll apply for registration with the ISO next week...


Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[television]

It's one of those jobs that is a lot easier the second time around

The Haynes manual has spanner ratings for each job. My manual will have !&*%%%€€!!! ratings for the number of swear words required

Lock barrels and front window winder mechanisms will rate very high under this system

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

Very good, and very much easier the second time round, I am getting very adapt now at pulling my car to pieces

 

[Estater]

Wireman, I really appreciated your in-depth observations. I had been following the Mercedes instructions sheets verbatim and couldn’t get the barrel/cover to pop out on my 1995 300E. I had been dreaming up a method involving a slide-hammer but your message persuaded me against violence. I now have the barrel and cover in my hands after a mere 5 hours of twiddling.

I made up the tool from Ø2.0mm spring wire. I put electrical tape on the legs as a depth gauge to show when I had hit 43mm. Whilst one of the legs would drop to 43mm, the other one wouldn’t…. To give a bit more freedom of movement I cut the U shaped tool in half and inserted the willing leg to full depth. I was then able to play with the errant leg separately. Once both legs were at full depth I still need to rotate them a bit to get the cover to release. Miraculously, the half moon cover lock pieces that you described stayed put.

Examining the old barrel (‘kin thing!), I can see that the cantilevered pawl on the back had snapped and some of the front of the die casting had also sheared. The fracture faces look like they fatigued rather than suffered shock from my removal technique. The new barrel (non matching) popped in easily and turns beautifully.

This is my 3rd W124 Estate and both of the others had a notchy key action. This is the first one however that has completely let me down. I was collecting a friend from the station, went to start her up and couldn’t turn the key at all. After 20 mins of jiggling we managed to get home (via Mercedes parts counter).

From my experience I’d now want to replace the barrel as a matter of course when purchasing a W124. I’ll bet the barrel comes out a lot easier when you don’t need it to. Thanks again Wireman!

 

[wireman]

You are most welcome.
It took me 4 hours first time (and three cars were dismantled in the process), all 3 were awkward untill the dual latch arrangement was discovered. It now takes 10 mins and no swearing.

The faulty lock which started the adventure also had a broken diecasting which I think may have been caused by an over wieght key ring containing:- 3 sets of car, 1 work, and 2 houses F&R.

 

[Zanimat]

I've just had the pleasure of renewing my lock barrel on my 1995 E300D (W124).
Just want to thank Wireman & others for their contributions; it certainly made the job easier.
However, I did spend quite some time with the wire tool engaged correctly & the whole barrel/cover wobbling about, but frustratingly refusing to let go. I removed the wire, squirted a shot of 3-in-1 up each of the release slots & tried again. Within seconds, the whole lot dropped into my hand!
It might also be worth mentioning the procedure for refitting; I found it was necessary to remove the key from the new barrel; drop the cover over it & then replace the key & turn it to the '1' position. Then carefully line up the cover & barrel with the housing & slide both home. I had previously tried to fit the barrel & then the cover, but no go.