Immobilizer

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SL 320 1995 auto
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If its a Scorpion then central locking will be on a separate pad to key, or at least thats what i had on the E280 1994.

Here's a pic of what lock in glovebox looked like, and i did not have a key to disarm it.
View attachment 41937

All i did was cut all 4 wires and taped up ends so that none were connected, but left enough wires on back of lock barrel (2-3") so i knew where they went to connect up again if that idea failed to end the immobilizer from working, but found that unnecessary.

This a similar fob that i had.

View attachment 41938

Just disconnecting those 4 wires did the trick and i just used key in locks after dousing them in proper lock graphite powder spray every 6 month's or so into ignition as well as both doors and tailgate.

USED THIS STUFF FOR 6 years after scorpion was disconnected and thrown into back of car should it ever be neccesary to reconnect for any obscure reason, but i just wanted to be safer and know i can unlock it when i want it unlocked without fail.

With key in drivers door lock swung around to unlock & if kept there all windows drop and vica versa - same as remote can do.

View attachment 41939
Hope it helps.
Thanks, that's really useful information. My remote fob only as one button. I'm really hoping it is a scorpion, as it sounds easier to sort out, how ever, now I'm thinking it's factory fitted. I'll check all my keys. Car stilling in garage, not much room in there, as soon as possible I will push it out and will be able to have a proper luck. Cheers. Really good information. thanks

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LostKiwi

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What makes you think it is the immobiliser?
 
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What makes you think it is the immobiliser?
When I purchased it back in 2003, I had a similar problem. It appeared to be intermittent. Advised by MB dealer to replace car battery, and keep on trickle charger due to limited use, so took car to MB dealer, had genuine MB battery fitted and diagnostic tests. They could find nothing wrong, and all as been well, but I've never really trusted it. So, I'm just assuming I guess.

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LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
Back to basics then.
It appears you don't have a Scorpio fitted so it either gas none or an MB one.

Does the fuel pump run for a few seconds after the key is turned to ignition (before cranking)? If not measure voltage at the pump to see if it runs.
If it has voltage briefly then it's the pump. If not check fuses and the fuel relay.
 
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Back to basics then.
It appears you don't have a Scorpio fitted so it either gas none or an MB one.

Does the fuel pump run for a few seconds after the key is turned to ignition (before cranking)? If not measure voltage at the pump to see if it runs.
If it has voltage briefly then it's the pump. If not check fuses and the fuel relay.
Unfortunately car is still in garage, in which I have very limited space as my daughter decided to store loads of boxes of unsold merchandise following one of her entraupernal ventures. Needless to say it wasn't successful. Soon as weather improves, I'll push car outside and really have a go at it. I still think it's imoboliser. Thanks, watch this space for sitrep.


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OP
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SL 320 1995 auto
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Unfortunately car is still in garage, in which I have very limited space as my daughter decided to store loads of boxes of unsold merchandise following one of her entraupernal ventures. Needless to say it wasn't successful. Soon as weather improves, I'll push car outside and really have a go at it. I still think it's imoboliser. Thanks, watch this space for sitrep.


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Hi, finally found some space in garage, nice day do decided to have another look at problem. Remembering all the advice, I found all the keys. On my model I have a key hole front and centre on dashboard, inserted "skeleton key" played around about and I could hear imoboliser "operating" . End result, car now up and running. Not sure if imoboliser is working, but you can't have it all. Thanks for your help.

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