Is there a replacement loom available?

jberks

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Hi all,
I fixed my failed wing mirror indicator over the weekend by cutting out the duff wiring and splicing in new stuff. The indicator is working fine now but the first time I reassembled I'd missed putting the loom back into a clip and whilst everything was working 100% some wiring was hanging out underneath the hinge when it was folded.

So, I stripped it down again, tidied up the wiring, putting it all into the retaining clip and reassembled. Now for some reason yet to be identified everything is working great except the mirror glass seems reluctant to move out. (other 3 planes seem ok). I'll investigate later but I have a nagging suspicion that one of the 4 mirror wires has now given up - probably as a result of me tugging and pushing it to get it back in the retaining clip. If it's gone, then I imagine it was weak for the same reason as the ones I've already fixed in which case I can assume the whole loom is buggered. If so, I don't fancy reparing those 4 plus the 2 heater wires too, so my question.

I assume the mirror wiring plugs into the car's loom just inside the door and by removing the mirror from the door with the 3 torx screws I could access the plug and remove the whole unit. Is this the case? (I'd prefer to do this, remove the whole loom and repair it all on the bench)

Also, If I did, is there a replacement 'wing mirror loom' I can get from MB so I could just swap out the whole lot?
 

television

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The cable and plug is not sold on its own, as far as I can see.

I think that taking the mirror off and working on the bench is the better way to go, this puts less strain on the components.

Often when 1 wire is broken,the other used for that operation will be on the way out too, so worth changing both in pairs.

Another thing maybe not good is having the repair in the middle of the wires, as it can be difficult to tuck the wires away, with inhibiting the movement of the glass.

Some mirrors use plugs onto the glass, and others spades,
the motors are fixed wired. I would cut the wires within 20mm of the motor,and plug if I was replacing one, if joined to a spade, solder directly onto the spade.

When stripping the wire never pull the plastic coating off or use a knife, the tip of the soldering iron will melt it and you can pull it off with your finger nail(a match will do) you never need to remove more that 2 mm of the plastic covering, for the heat of the soldering iron will shrink it back more.

Lastly the wire it needs something like CPC CBBR0239, a highly flexible 1mm wire. This only comes in 100 meter reels, maybe I should get some and let members have it with the heat shrink as a repair pack, as I buy in bulk.

I think that your fault is where the glass is fitted if it moves 3 ways, and the little gears must be pushed right in
 
OP
jberks

jberks

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Thanks Malcolm.
I haven't thoroughly checked the mirror movement yet. I'm going to have to get someone to push the button whilst I listen for any whirring. I tried moving by hand as I left the car this morning was able to push the glass back out manually with no effort so it's not restricted or jammed in any way, with a bit of luck that nudge may even have been enough to get back to life if the cogs had become disengaged.
Oddly, I spent a rushed minute on it last night and what was confusing me is that it seemed to move happily when I pressed the Wife's memory button but wouldn't move back when I pressed mine, which made no sense to me. It also doesn't seem to want to dip when in reverse any more. That plus it not moving out when I push the button... doesn't make sense to me.... unless it first tries to move out and won't do anything else until it's completed that bit...as it can't, it doesn't move at all. I'll have a proper play later and see if I can identify a pattern.

1mm flexible would've been great. I was offered 1mm normal but opted for some 2mm flexible. It's not ideal as it's really too thick but I was swayed by the 'extra flexible' tag.

I cut back as far as I dare given the restrictions of where I was working and how much of the loom I could get at but If I stripped the loom off the frame entirely I'd be able to chop more out and replace near enough the entire run. Plus I'd be able to retape it up into a proper loom. Hopefully I'll be able to coax it back into life as it is as I'm not thrilled at the prospect of dismantling it yet again. It can't be good for it and I've visions of wearing out the lugs on glass if I do it too often and then having issues getting it to stay in place.

If I end up stripping it down again, its going to have to be a once and final job, so it will come off the car, go on the bench and I'll rewire the lot. Am I right in thinking there will be a loom multi plug just inside the door behind where the mirror bolts on? Preasumably drop the 3 torx bolts, unplug the connector and take the whole assembly off the car.?
 

television

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Yes the door panel has to come off I believe as the connector sits just below the top, and not behind the triangular cover
 

jibcl500

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Jberks

I have the same problem on a customers W211 door mirror indicator not working, I have investigated what needs to be done but due to time constraints had to let the car go back out with the fault.

The two looms run down into the door, with the door card removed these should unplug easily, the two looms cannot be purchased only a complete door loom and I dont think this is a sensible option.

Rewiring is the best option, becareful when removing the door card as there is a ribbon connector that doesnt have much give on it and the door card needs a good shove to move it off the door and this can rip the ribbon out and cause a expensive repair.

jib
 


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