Jacking point

Slim4

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Hi anyone had any problems with rust around jacking point,
What’s the answer?
Thanks
 

Blobcat

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Hi anyone had any problems with rust around jacking point,
What’s the answer?
Thanks

Welcome// What vehicle , model, age etc. may get you more replies .
Looks like a W210 E320CDI - beautiful car beset with terrible structural rust issues :(

Only solution is cut it all out and replace with good steel - check your suspension turrets if the jacking points are failing as these can give way violently...:eek:
 

mioba

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This is a timely thread.

I lifted my W220 last week to remove the rear wheels and waxyoyl behind the arch liners.

Upon jacking was a crunch and a nice pile of rust fell out. Jacking point collapsed

Its well covered on the forum if you search.

I will be taking the rocker sills off when the weather improves to see the extent, the long plastic side undertrays dont help, but the car is 19 yo.

Its a common issue on all mercs because the puck of the jacking point is a weak spot.

I actually orderd 2 new patch panels (ebay) from germany which arrived today and they are ****** good metal.

Will have a more detailed look in the next weeks and then it out with the grinder welder. Fingers crossed it has not spread - but hey ho here is hoping.
 

ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
Same issue on mummies a class w168 was advisor last Yr. Welded it up 3 Yr ago. Might ne the end. Will look at a panel but I gettin on a bit now for ggrovellin under car. I 65 and car 20! Shame its been very reliable. (Yr was before mb dtf set in.)
 
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Slim4

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Thank
This is a timely thread.

I lifted my W220 last week to remove the rear wheels and waxyoyl behind the arch liners.

Upon jacking was a crunch and a nice pile of rust fell out. Jacking point collapsed

Its well covered on the forum if you search.

I will be taking the rocker sills off when the weather improves to see the extent, the long plastic side undertrays dont help, but the car is 19 yo.

Its a common issue on all mercs because the puck of the jacking point is a weak spot.

I actually orderd 2 new patch panels (ebay) from germany which arrived today and they are ****** good metal.

Will have a more detailed look in the next weeks and then it out with the grinder welder. Fingers crossed it has not spread - but hey ho here is hoping.
 
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S

Slim4

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Hi thanks for advice please can you send me a link for parts I need
Thanks
 

mercmancdi

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Same issue on mummies a class w168 was advisor last Yr. Welded it up 3 Yr ago. Might ne the end. Will look at a panel but I gettin on a bit now for ggrovellin under car. I 65 and car 20! Shame its been very reliable. (Yr was before mb dtf set in.)
Understand completely about the age thing , I have tons to do but with having no ramp to lift cars now when I get down on my knees can’t get back up so you may see me crawling from one end of the car to the other on my knees.
 

charlysays

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At 26 yrs old/ 210k miles my W202 needed work on the jacking points (and other areas). What I found was that the rust first starts in the spot welded overlap between the outer sill and the jacking point, probably because internally this seam isnt and cannot be sealed. Best you can do is fill it with waxoyl/dynax. The jacking point has an internal foot (available quite cheaply from Merc) which the outer sill is then spot welded to. The sill really just gives the foot horizontal location, the foot braces up into the body much higher up to take the weight of the car.
None of the jacking points on my car were weak but rust had swelled between the foot and the outer sill so I hacked the outer still off in this area, cleaned the jacking foot/ column up and then welded a new pieces in, seam welding to the existing outer still and plug welded to the jacking point. Painted and seam sealed externally and waxoyled internally.
I have had to repair the jacking point column/ foot before too, I made some reference marks and measurments, cut the rotted part of the old column off and welded that section of the new jacking point in. To replace the whole column wouldn't really be possible as it's welded high up in the sill so accessing it would involve a lot of cutting out of otherwise good metal. Not a difficult job to do at all if you can weld. Would be quite doable even without access to a lift or even axle stands.
Fully sympathise with the no lift issue. I'm only early 30s and hate crawling around on the floor, I have a 2 post lift but might need to move workshops at some point so might have an unpleasant period of purgatory with no lift. Looks like there are decent mobile single post and scissor lifts available these days though. If you can afford one and have a half decent drive maybe one of those mobile lifts and a good gazebo could work.
As above check other areas. On my W202 I found some small holes near the rear anti roll bar brackets, in the boot floor and one small hole in a front spring perch. All sorted now but dismantling the entire rear subframe, taking off the fuel tanks and prepping it all was a massive mission.
 
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mioba

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Hi thanks for advice please can you send me a link for parts I need
Thanks
Well I dont know the extent of the damage or your car to even remotely suggest what parts you need. Thats your job buddy to investigate, determine and purchase!
 

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