Just driven my W123 280CE into the garage wall!

[matsmith]

Been out for a cruise in my recently purchased 280CE, the brakes gradually deteriorated over the 12 mile journey and as I pulled into my garage at walking speed they failed completely. NO DAMAGE!!

The brake fluid level is OK, but the rear drivers side wheel is very hot to the touch and there is a burning smell coming from it.

Do the calipers sieze or can the hand brake bind?

Can anyone advise on best course of action.

thanks

 

[television]

Been out for a cruise in my recently purchased 280CE, the brakes gradually deteriorated over the 12 mile journey and as I pulled into my garage at walking speed they failed completely. NO DAMAGE!!

The brake fluid level is OK, but the rear drivers side wheel is very hot to the touch and there is a burning smell coming from it.

Do the calipers sieze or can the hand brake bind?

Can anyone advise on best course of action.

thanks

This could be either, the pistons in the caliper can seize, only by taking off the wheel will you know. it is possible for the parking brake to seize but I do not think that the heat would effect the hydraulic system. New callipers are not that expensive,some firms exchange them, take the wheel off and have a look.

malcolm

 

[matsmith]

I will jack it up and get that wheel off!!

If siezed will it need replacing?

 

[television]

I will jack it up and get that wheel off!!

If siezed will it need replacing?

There are kits for some callipers,but as a safety issue,is it worth it, saying that it might be hard to buy the calliper. If the pads are still seized when you start you may have to undo the two fixing bolts and lever the whole thing off. Though the fluid will have boiled,the rear one is far enough away from the master cylinder,you should get away with just bleeding that line.

Malcolm

 

[124coupe]

Could be just the pads seized in their slides (especially if the car sat for a while before you bought it)?

You have to change the boiled fluid anyway in that line so undo the bleed screw and see if the piston (not the pad) pushes back easily. Should go back under finger pressure with the bleed screw open. You can then clean up and lube the pad slides etc with the little tube of goo that comes with the new pads.

 

[TimN]

Working on one wheel at a time remove the road wheel. Drive out the brake pad retaining pins with a suitable drift. Prize out the brake pads. Then take one pad and turn through 90 degress and put back into the caliper. Then press the brake peddle a couple of times. It should be relatively easy. If not then do not force it as you could damage your brake disc. Take a look at the piston. If it has compe out then it is okay. Force the piston back in and retain it with the pad. Do the test again and check if the other piston comes out. If okay then replace the brake pads with new applying a liberal coating of copperease on the sides and rear. Then repeat for the remaining 3 wheels.

If you have a problem then you can probably get new seals and pistons relatively cheaply.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

There was a thread recently on the USA shop forum that was very similar to this. The concensus appeared to be that on old cars, if new parts were readily available, to buy them.

The calipers are about 23 years old, personally as its brakes I'd just consider replacing all 4 of them. Once you've done that, you could clean the old ones up and sell them on Ebay, or on the afore-mentioned forum - people still buy these things, over there there are loads of classic Mercs driving around

I'd also flush the brake lines as a matter of course, its only cheap but its worth doing. Also check the rubber hoses, if they're original I imagine they won't be in perfect condition.