Living with an R230

SL63 Mark

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Thank you all for the comments.

It was the roof flap drive motor which combined with new linkage, re-sync and test was £721 including VAT

The used part on eBay varies between £200 and £350 so I don't think I've been fleeced.

This is a new one on me. I did not know about this motor. :( I have googled it, and yes there are photos and examples on eBay for similar money.

Owning an R230 can be expensive. I always kept a "war chest" in reserve, in case any big bills came up, ABC, SBC, PSE etc. So my budget was purchase price plus £5k. I had everything go wrong with my 2004 SL55, but fixed it all because I loved the engine, and the noise it made. Leaky roof and boot, PSE pump, ABC pump, leaky struts, rusty arches, current drains, I had the lot.

I can't advise Stuart, but we all have to make decisions in the light of our economic priorities.
 
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s5tuart

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This is a new one on me. I did not know about this motor. :( I have googled it, and yes there are photos and examples on eBay for similar money.

Owning an R230 can be expensive. I always kept a "war chest" in reserve, in case any big bills came up, ABC, SBC, PSE etc. So my budget was purchase price plus £5k. I had everything go wrong with my 2004 SL55, but fixed it all because I loved the engine, and the noise it made. Leaky roof and boot, PSE pump, ABC pump, leaky struts, rusty arches, current drains, I had the lot.

I can't advise Stuart, but we all have to make decisions in the light of our economic priorities.
Thanks for that. Since February I've spent nearly £4K on the car and I still should get the engine mounts done at another £600. That's not urgent though so it'll have to wait if I keep the car.
Driving home from the indie it was lovely and sunny and the roads were clear and it showed me why I love the car.
There is still the spectre of the PSE and SBC looming to worry me. Unfortunately there a bit of a sketchy older history so I don't know if they've been done in the past or not. As of now they are fine...time will tell.
So, I've still not made a decision :rolleyes:

...and at least there are no leaks! :D
 

Hotspur

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when the roof gets stuck (Stuart when yours stopped half way for example) does the car refuse to start and move? or can you till drive it slowly into a garage to protect it from rain until it is fixed?
 

SL63 Mark

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when the roof gets stuck (Stuart when yours stopped half way for example) does the car refuse to start and move? or can you till drive it slowly into a garage to protect it from rain until it is fixed?

That's a good question. The R231 can be driven (slowly) with the roof open, but can't remember about the R230. Will it come out of park ? The problem is, you will damage the roof. It acts like an enormous sail.
 
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s5tuart

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when the roof gets stuck (Stuart when yours stopped half way for example) does the car refuse to start and move? or can you till drive it slowly into a garage to protect it from rain until it is fixed?
Mine drove to move it around a bit but I never drove above 10mph

But please take heed of what Mark says. The wind forces on the roof may make the problem even worse. I'd be most worried about the boot hinges. :shock:
 

SL63 Mark

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You should be fine under 10mph I would have thought, which would get you to the next layby.
 

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I was just thinking if you put the roof up outside of the garage and then it gets stuck - would you be stuck with the car on the drive rather than in the garage or would one be able to drive it forward 30 or so feet into the garage with a semi opened roof - otherwise it would be sensible if not to only open and close the roof when in the garage and then if it gets stuck the car would be out of the rain and safe if it wouldnt drive.
 

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I wonder what the maximum height of the roof is when opening/closing? I'm not sure my garage has sufficient headroom.
 

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That's a good question. The R231 can be driven (slowly) with the roof open, but can't remember about the R230. Will it come out of park ? The problem is, you will damage the roof. It acts like an enormous sail.
I’ve seen a 3 Series BM drive north on the M1 with the metal roof half open…:shock:

They were doing ~45mph in lane 1…
 

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Many thanks Alastarp & Hotspur - I'm going to try this once it stops raining for a couple of hours.
 
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s5tuart

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I was just thinking if you put the roof up outside of the garage and then it gets stuck - would you be stuck with the car on the drive rather than in the garage or would one be able to drive it forward 30 or so feet into the garage with a semi opened roof - otherwise it would be sensible if not to only open and close the roof when in the garage and then if it gets stuck the car would be out of the rain and safe if it wouldnt drive.
Mine is an unmodified 2003 and it drove ok
 

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Thanks for that. Since February I've spent nearly £4K on the car and I still should get the engine mounts done at another £600. That's not urgent though so it'll have to wait if I keep the car.
Driving home from the indie it was lovely and sunny and the roads were clear and it showed me why I love the car.
There is still the spectre of the PSE and SBC looming to worry me. Unfortunately there a bit of a sketchy older history so I don't know if they've been done in the past or not. As of now they are fine...time will tell.
So, I've still not made a decision :rolleyes:

...and at least there are no leaks! :D
I think that Star can tell how many pedal presses the SBC thingy has remaining??
 
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s5tuart

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I think that Star can tell how many pedal presses the SBC thingy has remaining??
Thanks. I'll see if I can blag a free reading next time I visit an Indie.
That'll just leave the PSE to worry about. I did manage to change the R129 one fairly easily and I'd be quite happy to change the impeller if it was that...
Hmmmmm...another tick on the "keep" column! :cool:
 

NJS5

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Many thanks Alastarp & Hotspur - I'm going to try this once it stops raining for a couple of hours

Just done it successfully in my garage - it will now be part of the routine before taking the car out.

Thanks again.

NJSS
 
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s5tuart

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Does anyone have a link to a diagram of the centre console armrest lock please?
The top lid opens ok but the bottom storage doesn't open using the bottom button. I have to fish it open manually :alien:
It doesn't completely shut locked either.
 

LostKiwi

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Been doing some research on the ABC pump and found some useful info.

Internally the pump has 7 pistons in 7 cylinders arranged radially around an eccentric lobe.
In operation each piston is pushed up to the top in sequence compressing the fluid which is then sent out to the rest of the system.
At rest when pressure is zero a spring pushes the piston to the bottom of the stroke keeping it contact with the eccentric.
Over time these springs can break. Once all the springs break the pump will fail to deliver pressure. As long as at least one spring is ok pressure from the one working cylinder will give the pressure needed for the pump to work (after a fashion).
I suspect this is my problem.
Overnight gravity will allow a few pistons to drop down to the intake part of the stroke (if the pump stops in the right place. Starting the engine gives just enough pressure to allow the pump to fire up. Stop it again and the pistons have no pressure above them so can't 'kickstart' the pump again.

It's a theory....

I have also found the spec of the springs :length 31 mm, outer diameter 9.2 mm, wire thickness 1.25 mm
1.25" long (1.25" is marginally long), 0.36 OD, 0.26 ID are the closest generic available - a pack of 6 is $9.99 from the US.
These are also pretty close:


Another US company does a seal kit meaning everything needed to rebuild the pump is readily available for not much money (under $90).
The biggest issue is removing the pressed on pulley mount... apparently it's FT - the article I was reading said they needed a 45 ton press!


Rebuild kit:

Detailed how to here:
 
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