Locks. W202.

[dave.robbo]

Right then! Finally got round to having a look at my boot lock this morning. I've had the car nearly a year, and haven't been able to get the key in the lock. Doesn't really matter, as the central locking works fine, but wanted to get it sorted. Just in case!

So, a good few squirts of WD40, moving the key in andd out, more squirting and so on, and.... I can get the key all of the way in!

But... I still can't turn it! I'm assuming it's the right key, as it works in the drivers door and also does the glovebox. I suppose it's possible that the tailgate has been replaced, but I've got no idea if that is the case.

Any ideas for the next step? Could a dealer possibly supply a new lock to fit my key, or would it need all the locks changing?

 

[television]

Hi Robbo, we had a very good post on this and "dec" and others put up lots of pictures on how to do the whole job, it was about 2 weeks ago, do a search

 

[dave.robbo]

That post was about getting into a locked boot, Malcolm.

I can get into mine, just can't unlock it with the key, if I ever needed to..

 

[television]

Its in the middle of this thread

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=47475&highlight=boot+lock

 

[Dec]

It was this one here Dave… http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=47475&page=3
I will be doing a DIY on that as soon as I can get time.

Your problem is that the lock is seized, its bone dry and has jammed due to aluminum “rusting”.
You have sprayed WD40 into the lock and that has freed the levers so that you can now get the key in.
The levers aren’t stopping you turning the key, it is the mechanism behind the key barrel that is preventing the key being turned, as seen in picture in above link
95% of the problem is in an area that the WD40 cant reach properly.

For now you could continue flooding the lock with WD40, have the boot open fully, his will allow gravity to let the oil trickle down into the area that needs it most. Drench the keyhole with WD40 and leave it for an hour, then work the key again but don’t over force it.

Dec

 

[dave.robbo]

Thanks for the link. Don't know how I missed that thread when I searched!

Dec. Mine's an estate, but I'd imagine that the problem is going to be very similar.
I'll take it all apart this week, hopefully...

 

[television]

I have sent you the works paper on it Dave

 

[dave.robbo]

Thanks Malcolm.

I've already had most of it apart once, but the worksheet makes it look more complicated than it actually is!

 

[television]

Thanks Malcolm.

I've already had most of it apart once, but the worksheet makes it look more complicated than it actually is!

Would it make the job easier if you send it back again

 

[dave.robbo]

Nice one! :grin:

 

[dave.robbo]

Got it sorted today. Removed the lock unit, eventually, and then struggled a bit to work out what bits were supposed to move, and what wasn't. Turned out that the barrel had just oxidised solid in the sleeve.

Stripped it all down, cleaned out all the crud, and re-greased everything before trying to work out which way the springs went, and where the 2 small ball bearings were needed.

Anyway, all done, and working well. Which is nice..

Oh, and Dec.. Mine looks completely different to yours.

 

[television]

Oh, and Dec.. Mine looks completely different to yours.

This could start getting naughty :Oops:

 

[bigasotonuk]

Got it sorted today. Removed the lock unit, eventually, and then struggled a bit to work out what bits were supposed to move, and what wasn't. Turned out that the barrel had just oxidised solid in the sleeve.

Stripped it all down, cleaned out all the crud, and re-greased everything before trying to work out which way the springs went, and where the 2 small ball bearings were needed.

Anyway, all done, and working well. Which is nice..

Oh, and Dec.. Mine looks completely different to yours.

I believe there is a difference in the early (pre-facelift) and the later (face lift) boot lock assemblies, one has air operated CL, and the other has electric operating CL, though which is which I cannot remember, but I,ll find out soon as my cars are one of each (pre-facelift and facelift), and both my boot locks are siezed solid!

 

[television]

I believe there is a difference in the early (pre-facelift) and the later (face lift) boot lock assemblies, one has air operated CL, and the other has electric operating CL, though which is which I cannot remember, but I,ll find out soon as my cars are one of each (pre-facelift and facelift), and both my boot locks are siezed solid!

All 202 are vacuum and only 203's electric

This is one of the last 202 cars

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.466&CT=F&cat=45H&SID=80&SGR=045&SGN=04

 

[Dec]

Oh, and Dec.. Mine looks completely different to yours.

I will show you mine if you show me yours.

Dec

 

[Geoff W]

Had a go at my locks yesterday after reading this thread, both solid, never been used, but after a few hours soaking in WD40 and carefull persuasion they are now all fully operational.
Thanks Guys Geoff.

 

[anyweb]

Got it sorted today. Removed the lock unit, eventually, and then struggled a bit to work out what bits were supposed to move, and what wasn't. Turned out that the barrel had just oxidised solid in the sleeve.

Stripped it all down, cleaned out all the crud, and re-greased everything before trying to work out which way the springs went, and where the 2 small ball bearings were needed.

Anyway, all done, and working well. Which is nice..

Oh, and Dec.. Mine looks completely different to yours.

did you take photos ? they are worth their weight in gold and sharing them here like Dec does is how others get their problems resolved

cheers
anyweb

 

[anyweb]

Had a go at my locks yesterday after reading this thread, both solid, never been used, but after a few hours soaking in WD40 and carefull persuasion they are now all fully operational.
Thanks Guys Geoff.

my turn next, my w202 boot lid wont open at all with the key but passenger door will....