Looking at a 1985 G Wagon

[aamackenzie]

I'm looking to buy a 1985 short wheel base 2.3 petrol G wagon. AA are inspecting ot today. Any particular problems to look for. Looking forward to participating in your forum.
thanks. Alan

 

[Arnie]

The G's are very tough vehicles but if it has not been properly maintained, they can be expensive. The post 1990 "463" versions are better spec'd than the "460" you are looking and I would look for one of these, instead.

However check:

1.) rust on the rear door
2.) lift all the interior mats and check underneath
3.) Broken coil springs, especially at the rear, and condition of dampers.
4.) condition of exhaust (expensive).
5.) Oil leaks from gearbox or transfer case.
6.) condition of engine (230 is a bit weedy for such a big vehicle)
7.) Check that the part-time 4WD works properly and that previous owner has not used it as the main setting for tarmac (there is no centre diff on this "460" model and the resulting torque wind-up on tarmac would damage the drive train).
8.) Check high and low range.
9.) Check that the front and rear diff-lock function with warning lights etc. operating on the dash.
10.) check the condition of the prop-shafts. They are indestructable as long as they are regularly (yearly) greased.
11.) Check condition of all rubber mounts (engine, gearbox and transfer 'box.) Vibration, especially in reverse would indicate worn mounts.
12.) Check wipers and wiper arm bushes for wear.
13.) check heater and blower fan for noise.
14.) Check condition of radiator.
15.) Check that the vehicle sits level or preferably a little higher at the back than the front.
16.) check speedo is not jumpy (worn drive-gear on transfer case).
17 Check for rust on chassis and condition of sump-guard plate.
18.) Check metal petrol tank is rust free. (plastic on "463").
19.) Check condition of front-wheel swivel-housing and check that the chromed balls are not corroded (each end of front axle). The housings must be regularly filled with grease, and ideally with good seals, the balls should have a very light grease coating. If you see oil or a lot of muck, then suspect bad seals and possibly damaged internal rubber-boot seal for the half-shafts.
20.) check wheel bearings
21.) and steering linkages and play on steering wheel. Some play can be adjusted out, but check that there are no leaks from the steering box, especially if with power-assistance.

Check www.gwoa.co.uk

and particularly: http://www.gwoa.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=172


Check everything !!!

 

[aamackenzie]

Thanks Arnie. I've just rcd the AA check done on the wagen and they have highlighted:
water ingress around heater,
right and left door cracked near hinge (is this typical??)
worn front wiper spindles,
Alternator output is low at 13.6 volts under load
Front hub seals leaking left and right.
BUT most worrying for me is the transmission hydraulic reservoir is empty.
Other than the above, cosmetic rust bubbles on rear flares, corrosion on base of rear door, usual stuff for a car this age.
What's your thoughts on the transmission? During the road test, the AA guy didn't operate the transmission hydraulics (don't know why not).
thanks for your response, appreciate it.
Alan

 

[Arnie]

Thanks Arnie. I've just rcd the AA check done on the wagen and they have highlighted:
water ingress around heater,
right and left door cracked near hinge (is this typical??)
worn front wiper spindles,
Alternator output is low at 13.6 volts under load
Front hub seals leaking left and right.
BUT most worrying for me is the transmission hydraulic reservoir is empty.
Other than the above, cosmetic rust bubbles on rear flares, corrosion on base of rear door, usual stuff for a car this age.
What's your thoughts on the transmission? During the road test, the AA guy didn't operate the transmission hydraulics (don't know why not).
thanks for your response, appreciate it.
Alan

Door-hinge corrosion: Yes this is typical and can be repaired, although harder to do on "460" series, since the hinges are welded. Heavy doors and slight flexing of metal causes cracking over time ("463" improved.)

Rust Bubbles: New (MB) body panel pieces are available for replacement at quite cheap prices if you decide to do a full restore.

Water ingress around the heater: Blocked drain holes in the inlet plenum under bonnet or could be leaking through worn wiper spindles (you'd be surprised). Check heater fan is OK, because can be damaged by water.

Front Hub seals leaking: To be expected at this age, but costly repair (time), if new rubber boots are required.

Alternator output low: Depends how it's measured and condition of battery. 13.5 - 14.5 V should be OK. Anyway, regulators or exchange alternators (should have sealed back with a snorkel) are cheap.

Transmission hydraulic reservoir: If by this you mean the reservoir for the hydraulically operated diff-locks, this may be due to the rubber hoses having perished. However, it is important to verify that the Diff-locks do work properly because to repair them, you need to completely strip down each axle. Ask the owner when he last used them? You could bring a bottle of brake/clutch fluid with you when you next visit and then try to fill the reservoir and pump the lock levers (pull up) a few times. Check that the red lights comes on the dash when the levers are up and you have driven a few hundred yards. Turning the steering wheel often when on a hard surface, may speed the locking. The diffs will only lock when the shafts are properly aligned and this is quick on soft-ground with slip, but harder to achieve on tarmac. Same is true for disengaging the locks. (Check also that the lights have good bulbs.)

I would not buy if there are problems with the drive-train, transmission or diff-locks.