Mercedes 560SEC 1989 - Advice

baileym1

New Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Hi,

Just looking for some advice - I impulsively bought this car as a wreck – basically it was caught in a fresh water flood in france and towed back to the UK – It stood idle under some trees and covered in moss and algae for approx 5 years by the previous owner who had the intention of repairing but never got round to it (although he did remove speedo & fascia etc. which are now missing.

I have had the car towed back to my house and gave it a good clean & polish inside & out although all the instrument panels are missing and sill some mud in the doors which I am trying to remove. Bodywork seems to be in great condition with hardly any rust that I can spot. The battery has been recharged and the ignition turned (all lights & indicators on the car work ok as well as the lights dangling from the missing fasia/speedo.
I am not sure if the engine is seized but would appreciate any advice as to whether the engine could be turned manually, rebuilt or replaced. It is a beautiful looking car when cleaned and tidy and would love to get it back on the road if the cost is not too prohibitive or should I just cut my losses and get rid.

Any advice either way greatly appreciated.


Mark
 

Charlotte001

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
70
Reaction score
0
Location
norwich
Hi rebuilding the engine is going to be a big job (less you are mechanically minded) Chances are there will be water in the fuel system and the tank, pipes will be corroded badly and will need changing.

You can try to turn the engine manually on the dog bolt (Big bolt at the crank) make sure there is no electrical supply incase the engine fires.

Have you tried putting a battery on the engine and turning it over?

Odds are you will needing to replace all the ECu's (Depending on water level)

There is a 99% chance that the insurance company will have written it off which causes all kinds of problems for insurance, you may need a SVA check at the local DVLA offices.

Back to your question. Can you rebuild the engine or will it need to go to a engine shop ? I've rebuilt several V8's and it's not a cheap job £300+ If you take it to the engine shop it may cost you upto and over the wrong side of £1700 (I must stress it may be cheaper) Then theres the auto box if it's auto that will need stripping and rebuilding. Manual box will probably be corroded internally.

I'd suggest you check to see if it's been written off and look into the process of getting it re registered as road worthy first before you attempt the major jobs of engine, gearbox, suspension rebuilds.

If you have either the time, knowledge, patience and enthusiam then it would be a very nice car. I have a very nice 500SE.

Charlotte
 

dunchayton

New Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2003
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Location
Kent, UK
I admire you for attempting to save the SEC!

So heres some moral support! (I'm assuming its siezed?)
If the engine is utterly ruined from its bath 5 years ago, you aren't going to do any more harm to it by trying to free it off. Nothing to loose in trying!
I've freed off some engines before that have been siezed at the bottom end, (admittedly not ones that have had a swim) but heres how you go about it.
1) Do not try an turn the engine with the starter!
2) take the sparkplugs out. Put a small quantity of oil down each spark plug hole..not a huge amount, but enough to pool on top of the piston. Don't put in anything too thick- you want something fairly light and penetrating so that it can seep down the sides of the piston and hopefully a little bit past the piston rings. I've heard some people using redex, but I've always just used whats lying around.
3) leave it for 2 days to let the oil penetrate. Don't put the plugs back in - the compression will just hinder you when you get onto turning it.
4) Obtain a big socket that fits on the crankbolt. Use a big power bar - not a little 12 inch bar. You'll need some leverage.
5) The next point of concern is the cams. You could take the rocker covers off each side and spray some oil over the the cam lobes, or you could just chance it.. I'd probably chance it.
6) rock the power bar backwards and forwards, perhaps using your foot for additional power, hopefully you will get a little bit of movement in either direction, once you have got it moving, keep rocking it back and forwards till you get a complete revolution of the engine.
7) Do not try and start the car (or turn the engine on the starter!)
8) Give it an oil and filter change - Don't use expensive oil as if you get it going, your going to be changing it again within an hour. Cheapest oil from the DIY store is probably best.
9) Drain the gearbox oil (fully) and replace the trans filter (cheap from euro car parts)and fill with new oil. Don't worry about the diff for now, but drain it and refill with new oil IF you get the car going, before you go for a drive!
10) Fit the OLD spark plugs. Remove distributor cap, use a small screwdriver/sandpaper to clean the end of the rotor arm, and the contact on the top where it meets the carbon brush spring loaded in the cap. Clean the eight contacts on the cap. If you get the engine running with the cleaned up old cap - buy a new cap and leads afterwards - no point spending money just now!. Spray the old ignition leads with a water dispersant like WD40.
11) I disagree that the fuel lines will need to be flushed, sure they will be dirty as its sat around for five years, but I'd guess the petrol in the tank probably won't have been contaminated by the flood - it will however be old and perhaps stale. Have a look with the ignition witch on, to see how much is in the tank. If its loads, drain it by removing the pipe to the fuel pump (silver cylinder near the diff) and pour in new petrol. Don't change the fuel pump filter yet! Leave the old one on to catch the 5 years of crud - change it after running through a tank of fuel if (once!) you get then engine going.
12) wind it over on the starter with the old plugs back in. You'll probably drain a couple of batteries just spinning it over and flushing the oil in the bores out with fuel.
13) Remove the old plugs. Recharge the battery. Leave the plugs out for a good while (a day?) to dry off, the engine will be very flooded. Fit new spark plugs.
14) Give it a go! If it does start - do not take it above 2000rpm, just feather it and let it warm up to temperature. Don't be tempted to drive it anywhere.
15) Use a flushing agent - either an additive to the old oil, or you can buy flushing oil from the motor factors. Don't replace the filter yet if you are refilling with flushing oil- run the flushing oil on the same filter (its only a day old) and then change the filter before you refill with a good quality engine oil.
16) COMPLETELY bleed the brakefluid. All of it! It might feel okay when cold, but after 5 years its certain to have gone hydroscopic with the effect that when it gets hot, you'll looose your brake pedal. Change it before driving anywhere.
17) Change the oil in the diff. Make sure the handbrake has not siezed on. Drain and flush the coolant in the engine. Use a decent antifreeze with a corrosion inhibitor - don't refill it with the old stuff. Might be an idea to change the thermostat and check that the electric fan is working by shorting the switch wires out.
18) try moving the car - obviously do the sensible checks for unsafe tyres and make sure that you have at least some brakes. They will improve with use, but not if the caliper pistons are all stuck - common on SEC's that haven't been used. (Mine are sticky)
The BEST OF BRITISH! Drop me a PM to let me know how you got on.
If all the above fails, I wouldn't even consider rebuilding the original engine. Totally uneconomic. The best route would be finding a W126 560 that has developed the famous expensive suspension maladies. Have a look on ebay the 560SE-s crop up from time to time. Buy one for 400 quid and use it as an engine donor - thats if the SEC is in good nick bodily...(have you opened the boot and looked at the panel under the rear screen?)
If the SEC is scuffy on the interior and body, with an engine that refuses to be resuscitated - break it or sell it complete for parts. The parts are undoubtedly worth a lot more than the complete car!

Cheers

Duncan
 
OP
B

baileym1

New Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #4
Charlotte/Duncan

Thanks for your replies - I would really love to get this car back on the road given the time lol so you have given me something to think about - so I'm gonna try and give it a go even if it requires a replacement engine.

Thanks again,

Mark
 

shayes

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2002
Messages
1,051
Reaction score
4
Your Mercedes
as stated
A photo would be nice to see?

Whereabouts in France did you come upon this interesting project?
Agree with all said about restoration process and its great to have the benefit of peoples exhaustive knowledge on the subject. If you want a replacement engine however, they come up quite frequently on e-bay. You takes a chance, but if time is an important factor then it's the simplest expedient.

Not sure if an 89 500SEL Engine will fit but I know a guy in Sotland who may have one with under 100k on the clock.
Also, recently there was a breaker in Ireland who advertised parts on e-bay and he has "1500" Mercedes in various states of breakage!!! - not sure if he would be the best bet, however.

BREAKING NEWS!!!! Here's something which may be of interest on e-bay Item number 4603171571 560sel CURRENT ITEM
 
Last edited:

30260

Active Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2003
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
ebay sec

There is a very cheap but bent sec on ebay. Be quick it finishes soon
 

d:class automotive are specialists in automotive interiors and upholstery. From Mercedes and modern cars to custom and classics. Tel: 01483 722923 Email:info@dclass.co.ukWeb:www.dclass.co.uk
Top Bottom