Mercedes c180 posible sensor problem

[mishal]

Hi, recently i have had have problems with my C180 (1998)
The engine cut out on the motorway and then 30 mins later it started up again. This has happened a few times now but the temperature gage is on 80 which to my knowledge is ok.
Ive taken it to a garage but they were really unhealpfull as its an intermitent problem.
some one suggested it could be the crank sensor over heating.
can anybody help me with this? im not that technically minded regarding cars so any help will be much appreciated.

car = c180 classic, S plate, automatic

Mishal

 

[television]

The crankshaft sensor sound the very thing to cause your problem, it has 2 part numbers on it an MB number and from MB at £87 also a Bosch number at £47 from any Bosch agent

 

[mishal]

Hi, thanks for your reply.
I thought it may well be this, however ive booked the car in tomo at an independent garage who have a fault code reader so hopefully will confirm this. (fingers crossed it does not come up with any other faults...)
Is the crankshaft sensor easy to replace?? Also i take it bosch parts will be just as good as from MB?

Mish

 

[television]

5 in the link and held with one screw,take a few mins to fit.

Bosch are the ones that made it for MB so that is the one to use.

These seldom show up on fault codes

 

[mishal]

thanks malcolm,

i dont suppsoe you have the part number for the bosch CPS i just called a local agent and said he could not find one on "in system"! i thought if i had a Product number it might push things along abit more.

Mish

 

[mishal]

Hi All,
A quick update. i pluged the car into a fault code reader and surprise surprise no fault was registered. as malcolm mentioned the CPS error may not show up. also the car was working when i pluged her in.

ive decide to bit the bullet and replace the crank sensor, ive read a few psots on her and the internet and i hope this is the cause of my issues. does anyone have a link to show me where it is located, from my research its at the back of the engine block (might be a bugger to reach!!)

any help is much wanted..

Mishal

 

[mishal]

Stuck crank sensor

Hello guys,

Realy would like some advice here.
im trying to remove the crank sensor but it wont budge. Has anyone had the same problem and if so any clever idea how i can remove the Crank sensor. Acording to haynes you just undo the bolt and it should pull out but it does not!

i sprayed wd40 down it and left it for a few days but this has not made any difference. although now the car wont start at all, i guess this is because the wd40 has seaped into the gap between the sensor and twhere its located.... any suggestions?????????

Mish

 

[television]

They can stick, can you twist the thing with a large pair of grips or tap the base with a blunt instrument to swing it

 

[mishal]

Hi malcolm,

ive used mole grips but it did not move. i dont want to put too much force on its as im scared to break it. ill give the tapping with a blunt instrument a try this evening to see if it works.

one more question for you, i sprayed oil over the sensor in attempt to loosen it, the car started but was reving erractically (limp mode????) it then cut out (like normal). now it wont start, im hoping this is down the the fact ive been fiddling with the sensor and nothing serious?

thanks for your suggestions

Mish

 

[stevesey]

I don't wish to frighten anyone, but the dealer that diagnosed mine did comment that occasionally they stick and the only solution is to split the engine/gearbox and hammer it out from the inside :-(

Mine was fixed under warranty by the garage I got the car from so I don't know how easily it came out (they did have the car for 2 days though). I'd persist with the WD-40 and gentle persuasion for a bit. Others may have suggestions as well.

 

[bigasotonuk]

Use a decent release oil like plus-gas or such. WD-40 is primarily a moisture repellant.

 

[SimonRaf]

Hello guys,

Realy would like some advice here.
im trying to remove the crank sensor but it wont budge. Has anyone had the same problem and if so any clever idea how i can remove the Crank sensor. Acording to haynes you just undo the bolt and it should pull out but it does not!

i sprayed wd40 down it and left it for a few days but this has not made any difference. although now the car wont start at all, i guess this is because the wd40 has seaped into the gap between the sensor and twhere its located.... any suggestions?????????

Mish

Thanks for this Mish. My car has been off the road since Friday and I am collecting a Crankshaft Sensor tomorrow evening to be fitted by my mechanic. I will warn him of the pitfalls but on searching other posts and helpful advice on mine in another section, I have been advised that if all goes well it should be a 10-15 minute job. (Grazed knuckles included!!)

 

[mishal]

Morning,
Ive managed to remove the crank sensor last night, it was a nightmare in the end i had to take of the inlet manifold to gain better access (it was impossible to get it out otherwise) and slowly prise it out by using a screw driver to gain leverage!! on inspection of the old sensor it had dirt and rust all over it. ive inserted the new sensor and just need to screw back all the other bits ive taken off (sadly i lost daylight so had to stop).

once i have it all back do i need to reset the ECU? or should the car be clever enough to know a new sensor is in place?

Mish

 

[television]

Sorry you had such a hard time, nothing to program at all

 

[mishal]

thats good.
ok ill fix the rest of the car up this evening and report back on how it all went. fingers crossed it starts up fine. been a worry few weeks but thanks for all your help.

 

[SimonRaf]

Damn!! Mechanic changed the crankshaft sensor and made no difference. Old sensor was clean and still magnetic, no marks etc on it. He seems to think that the fuel must be cutting off for some reason. Everything else seems ok ? He has someone coming tomorrow morning with a diagnostic machine so will wait and see......

 

[mishal]

hi all,

i built car back up yesterday, bar two inlet manifold bolts which i lost,
so I need to get two new ones from Merc.

I started her up (it was reluctant) and it ran like crap for a minute, it
was misfiring and knocking all over the place, then it cleared up and ran
fine, I drove it round my car park and it seemed normal. It ticked over
well, revved up ok and sounded normal. i had it running like this for about
1hr while i sat in it reading a book to stay warm. No warning lights were on
at all (apart from the hand break).
Then I turned it off to see if it would start again..... it did on the 4th attempt then I
stopped it and it wouldn't start again, flat battery.. ive put the battery on charge but im about worried that there maybe another issue... any ideas?

Mish

 

[television]

Wait till the battery is re charged then let us know

 

[stevesey]

There's a risk of manfold leaks making the car run badly with those two bolts missing (might have been this causing the poor running until it warmed up a bit). Otherwise as Malcolm says, plus you could check the battery voltage when the car is idling to check it's charging the battery at idle, should be around 13.5V.

 

[mishal]

hi all,

The car started on the first attempt i ran it at idle for 20 mins then switched off and 5 mins later tryed to turn her on but she would not start. I tested the battery and it registered at 12.3V. is this good? its been very cold the last few weeks when the car has not been ran at all so could the be on its way out? im abit foxed with this now as im postive the crank sensor was faulty as the old one was all corroided. could there be a problem with the ECU?

any advice?

Mish