ML 270 front bottom ball joint

[kebo57]

Hi what might I expect to pay to have both front bottom ball joint changed on my ML 270

Kevin

 

[television]

You do not fancy a DIY then,,if its as the cars its easy

 

[psmart]

I dont have the invoice with me, but when mine failed MOT with 2 front ball joints, front shocks, rear springs+shocks, I bought them all here in Germany (which actually works out more expensive than UK now) for circa 400 Euro (biggest cost was the rear shock/spring unit, the ball joints were around 30Euro each from memory). Didnt have time so I got a local mechanic to fit them. I looked into the job at the time, and nothing, apart from the rear shock/spring assembly was difficult or required special tools other than a Ball Joint seperator.

My rear shocks/coils have gone again, which is not suprising as the method of manufacturer doesnt turn up the coil ends and thus you have a stress point!

 

[panason1c]

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=19469

 

[television]

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=19469

Thanks panasonic but I almost died going back and reading all that, was life that hard here back then

 

[panason1c]

Thanks panasonic but I almost died going back and reading all that, was life that hard here back then

Crikey!, I only looked at the first couple of posts on the link and saw that it covered ML ball joints......i wouldnt have posted it if i'd realised it contained so much grief.............

 

[kebo57]

You do not fancy a DIY then,,if its as the cars its easy

Hi and thanks for all the replies
I did read that thread before but not much about any complications that night occur
Anyway I have DIY'd them
I will post some pic's after I have finished of the tool for the ball joint wring nut

Kevin

 

[television]

Crikey!, I only looked at the first couple of posts on the link and saw that it covered ML ball joints......i wouldnt have posted it if i'd realised it contained so much grief.............

Thats OK many have gone on to read erics gearbox thread.

I dont drink but I am going to now and have a fat cigar

Thanks panosonic

 

[kebo57]

Hi got that tool finished so here goes
I haven't managed to master the typing in between pic's & also I can only load 5 pic's so I will have to do another reply.
I used a standard ball joint splitter for all joints including the bottom one see pic' 49
Then I was concerned about how to separate the hob from the drive shaft but as you can see pic 45 shows what is left when the hub is removed.
ie the wheel bearing stays within the hub all still sealed up nicely (bravo to MB)
The splines are the only thing that are stopping the hub from coming of after you have removed the hub nut (36mm), but they are a bit tight so I had to use a puller but not a lot of force see pic's 48.
Pic 42, 44, shows the set up for the removal of the old ball joint
ie drilling a circle of holes to relieve the interference fit so the ball joint will tap out easily thats as far a I can go till I upload some more pic's

Kevin

 

[kebo57]

Hi following on
Pic 43 shows the ball joint part out
I sliced the base (angle grinder) of this one before I started drilling but I didn't with the second one.
pic 46 shows fitting of the new ball joint there is 0.10mm interference fit & the wring nut will pull the ball joint in by hand easily with a C-spanner.
Pic 51 shows the splines in the back side of the hub bearing etc (bravo to MB)
pic 50 close up of the drive shaft
pic 52 the tool for the 300 Nm tightening of the wring nut

This is how I did it 2 ball joints £20.00 each.
no fancy ball joint puller £500.00

There might be better ways to do this job, so go easy on me

PS another pic of the reverse of my toothed socket to come.

Kevin

 

[kebo57]

Hi last pic

pic 45 36mm a/f same as the hub / drive shaft nut

When I did this job I started the engine without the hub sensor attached so I could mess with the stearing lock & managed to got all the brake warning lights on, but when I drove round to the front of my house they where go, thought I might have messed up there but they seem to be OK.

Kevin

 

[television]

Good one kebo, and the picture say so much more, we do have some talented people here

 

[kebo57]

Good one kebo, and the picture say so much more, we do have some talented people here

Thanks for this reply

I'm glad its appreciated by one of the top men on this sit

Its the least I can do

I'll probable need your expertise some time in the near future

Kevin

 

[psmart]

Kevin,

Great work and is ideal for the DIY section. If youve got the chance, contact Blobcat (you may have to grovel and praise air-conditioners ) and he can put it into the DIY section.

 

[Blobcat]

Kevin,

Great work and is ideal for the DIY section. If youve got the chance, contact Blobcat (you may have to grovel and praise air-conditioners ) and he can put it into the DIY section.

Copied the relevant posts to the DIY section. No praise for A/C required

 

[soup nazi]

OK Guys
I'm looking at taking this on myself (2003 ML 270 CDI). I note that WIS states the torque for the slotted retaining nut is 300nm, also the torque on the axle hub nut is 490nm. Anyone done this? I am looking at hiring a torque multiplyer to do the job. Of course all nuts are single use only including the ones on the tie rod ends and ball joints.

The original ball joint appears a little different to the part, on the base of it it has no retaining slotted nut, or is this a cap?
SN

 

[kebo57]

OK Guys
I'm looking at taking this on myself (2003 ML 270 CDI). I note that WIS states the torque for the slotted retaining nut is 300nm, also the torque on the axle hub nut is 490nm. Anyone done this? I am looking at hiring a torque multiplyer to do the job. Of course all nuts are single use only including the ones on the tie rod ends and ball joints.

The original ball joint appears a little different to the part, on the base of it it has no retaining slotted nut, or is this a cap?
SN

Hi regarding
“It has no retaining slotted nut”
I can’t remember what the old nut looks like; I’m sure I have the old ball joints & will have a look tonight,
“or is this a cap”
I know what you are relating to here and it’s not a cap I lopped this of with angle grinder on the first side but there was no need as there is clearance on the diameter for the nut to slide over
“torque multiplyer”
I have a ½” drive 700 lbs ft impact gun that I used to tighten the nuts up

Kevin

 

[soup nazi]

OK I have located a torque wrench and torque multiplier that will easily achieve the required torque. What I would like to know is the size of the socket required to fit the axle hub nut?

Just so I can get the gear together before pulling it to bits.
SN

 

[kebo57]

OK I have located a torque wrench and torque multiplier that will easily achieve the required torque. What I would like to know is the size of the socket required to fit the axle hub nut?

Just so I can get the gear together before pulling it to bits.
SN

Hi I think its a 36mm socket "pic 45 36mm a/f same as the hub / drive shaft nut" same as the tool that I made for the ball joint nut

are you going with MB genuine ball joints our none genuine as there is a lot of difference in price

Kevin

 

[BlackC55]

Hi Kevin,

Just a quick note. Those £20 ball joints? What make were they?

Cheap ball joints are generally of terrible quality and just don't last. Just be careful. I have seen 12 month old cheap ML ball joints VERY VERY worn.