My Detailing Adventures

[Arzaam]

i thought the colour was familiar. same colour as my car. in fact other than the wheels, (and the lack of rust compared to mine) it looks near identical!

im never sure why the U designation on paint codes. im almost sure if the code is looked up online its 189U for my car, but on the data card in the service book, im sure its just 189

and yes, parking here is terrible too! as are the road surfaces

i think as far as the look of paint finish is concerned the U wouldn't make a difference, form your avatar your car paint looks something like this

mercedes-benz-c-class-2002-5200341 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr



this was my car when i went to the seller's house to buy it and it was not detailed, you know a little pale, i say just have a good detail session and you would be surprised at the turn around, when was the last time you clayed the car or nourished the paint?, what kind of protection are we talking about, sealant base or just wax?,

 

[whitenemesis]

i thought the colour was familiar. same colour as my car. in fact other than the wheels, (and the lack of rust compared to mine) it looks near identical!

im never sure why the U designation on paint codes. im almost sure if the code is looked up online its 189U for my car, but on the data card in the service book, im sure its just 189

and yes, parking here is terrible too! as are the road surfaces

As I mentioned above the U makes an option code a paint code. SA code 189 without the U is quite likely to have a different meaning, non paint related.. It's not uncommon for the U to be omitted when its obvious that it refers to a paint colour.

 

[Arzaam]

i also did the headlights as they were hazy when i got the car, the process i used was

clay bar

meguiars PlastX with Meguiars Power DA system( the one yo attach to a Drill machine)

and two coats of Chemical Guys Jet Seal for protection

this side has not been treated

DSC02179 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

this side was finished

DSC02180 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

this was the best i could do as the pre facelift model doesnt come with clear headlamp lenses

i was more delighted with the work on taillights as they were hazy too

the side which has not been done

DSC02193 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02194 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

After

DSC02184 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02188 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02191 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

it became really clean and shiny

also did the Wheels
used Auto Finesse Iron Out wheel cleaner

clayed it

sealed it using Chemical Guys Jet Seal

Tyres were dressed with Meguiars Endurance Tyre Gel

also used a label and Adhesive remover from turtle wax to remove one to two spots on the wheels

AF iron out is also specially formulated for break dust removal and works quickly and great, for heavy dirt on wheels (not brake dust) i use Meguiars Hot rims wheel cleaner

Before

DSC02260 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

unfortunately i forgot to take the pic of after form the same angle so bear with me here, i realised after emoting photos from camera

After

DSC02280 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02310 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

 

[television]

i thought the colour was familiar. same colour as my car. in fact other than the wheels, (and the lack of rust compared to mine) it looks near identical!

im never sure why the U designation on paint codes. im almost sure if the code is looked up online its 189U for my car, but on the data card in the service book, im sure its just 189

and yes, parking here is terrible too! as are the road surfaces

Just the 3 figures for the paint code, it has been said the the U denotes upper body, again it maybe something to do with a clear coated paint. Again maybe the paint type. there are no clear answers out there.

A body shop is only interested in the 3 figure code on the body plate.

 

[Arzaam]

also did a very quick nothing major detail of engine bay, my aim was to mostly nourish the plastic and rubber bits and get a fresh look

things used

Meguiars Super Degreaser in a pump spray bottle with long pipe

Kearcher Steam Machine,

and Meguiars Hyper Dressing(water based dressing for resorting and keeping plastic bits health)

and APC for the cloth fabric under hood

lots of different detailing brushes


before

DSC02386 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02385 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02388 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

After

DSC02396 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02400 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02403 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

i am strictly against using any sort of water in engine bay and also did not go in depth as it was my first time doing a merc engine and i didn't wanted to mess anything up,

btw i love working on a engine of Mercedes just because its amazing how the bonnet opens almost vertical.

 

[Xtractorfan]

The U only came into use around 2003/04 and I have always taken it to mean that the car is finished in the ceramic lacquer or Nano Paint.

 

[Arzaam]

The U only came into use around 2003/04 and I have always taken it to mean that the car is finished in the ceramic lacquer or Nano Paint.

But my car is manufactured in 2002 mid
And from the feel if the paint it does look to be factory ceramic coated

It probably stands for what the above members have already explained

 

[television]

It is said the Nano paint has a C in front of the number. the U is not an indication as my 2002 SL had the U suffix.

It is also being said that Mercedes no longer use the Nano paint, I do not think that mine is, if fact I am 95% sure it has not got Nano paint.


Interesting bit on paint

http://www.autopia.org/forum/topic/127082-automotive-paint-part-ii/

 

[WDB124066]

My clear is not ceramic, I think it's water based, it scratches easily. Looking at a better clear when it's repainted...

http://techinfo.glasurit.com/en_UK/PKW_VOC/Chapter_G/GK/925-2002.html

...but in the meantime I wonder what Ceramic in German is?

Piccie below, lots of dust, but yours looks different Arzaam, I wonder if you have more pixels in your camera than me...??

 

[Xtractorfan]

You can't have waterbased clear coat, they just haven't been able to get there yet.

 

[television]

My clear is not ceramic, I think it's water based, it scratches easily. Looking at a better clear when it's repainted, but in the meantime I wonder what Ceramic in German is?

keramisch

 

[Xtractorfan]

It is said the Nano paint has a C in front of the number. the U is not an indication as my 2002 SL had the U suffix.

It is also being said that Mercedes no longer use the Nano paint, I do not think that mine is, if fact I am 95% sure it has not got Nano paint.


Interesting bit on paint

http://www.autopia.org/forum/topic/127082-automotive-paint-part-ii/

The link you posted Malcolm is from someone who has googled a lot about paint and got confused during his writings.
Lots of the stuff he has written there does not apply to the OEM finishes as used by the car industry.
He is confusing very old painting techniques and types with newer technology, and also confusing commercial painting with car refinishing.
He also talks about solid colours..last time a car was painted in Solid colour was in the 70s. All colours since then have been basecoat and clear coated.

The car industry never used 2 pack paints or lacquers, all of their paints and lacquers are baked at very high temperatures up to 160 degrees..
The first front wheel drive Vauxhall Cavaliers were the last models to be painted in convential metallics..ie the lacquer mixed with the metallic coating.
He also states that aluminium flakes used in metallics wasn't a success.
Ali flakes are still used in metallics today, along with Xirralic and other exotic super sparkly substances.

 

[Arzaam]

it seems to be a bit of mystery, but the thing is my car has never ever been resparayed or repainted or touched up, its still the same paint form the factory, is your or other member's car in this colour is repsprayed? as then the metallic flakes are not that much, my car does look to be ceramic coated as for its age it hardly had any swirls and its not that the previous owner was a detailer or anything, even while working on it paint felt hard and even where the panel meets normally at this age paint starts to come off form there but not in this one

but i also know that in 189 paint code theres emerald black, black opal, and smaragdsschwarz

are these slightly different finishes?

maybe the difference lies there in

or i simply think the difference is dimly in the detailing! when was the last time you guys detailed your cars and with what combination

 

[Arzaam]

these are in process shots, this is how thinly i lay wax or sealant,

IMG_2147 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

IMG_2154 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr]

after buffing it off
DSC02480 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr


some more pics, keep on guessing the colour in fact its looks quite dark almost black at night

DSC02482 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02496 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

DSC02499 by Arzaam Bhatti, on Flickr

 

[WDB124066]

Mines not ceramic, has never been repainted, the finish there is after a cut, seal and polish, you can see no scratches.

My feeling, U is for ceramic...

 

[V6Matty]

Looking through the hole thread again i have to say that even after a quick clay and polish my paint doesn't look to far off that, certainly a lot more scratches though the main problem i have is i have no where under cover to do the whole job so i have to do it in stages and the finish isn't nearly as good as the OP's.

 

[television]

The link you posted Malcolm is from someone who has googled a lot about paint and got confused during his writings.
Lots of the stuff he has written there does not apply to the OEM finishes as used by the car industry.
He is confusing very old painting techniques and types with newer technology, and also confusing commercial painting with car refinishing.
He also talks about solid colours..last time a car was painted in Solid colour was in the 70s. All colours since then have been basecoat and clear coated.
That is not so and incorrect.

Number 1, Mercedes finished in black or white are solid paints with no clear coat are still used today.

Number 2,
Cellulose, invented in 1927 was still used in the 70's/80's, Ford started to use synthetic solid paints in the 80's, it was much less prone to chipping.

Number 3, Mercedes went over to water based base coat at the end of the 80's, the top coat was a 2k oven baked to cure quickly at 60ºc. There were many problems to start with as the 2k coat was too hard, and the paint could literately fall off. The man next door had an 1989 SL 107 coupe and the paint fell off the boot to start with followed by the rear wings, in the end it was stripped bare and all redone.
The 2K paint on my 1990 124 300TE would blister very badly in the event of a stone chip. By the start of the 90's they got it right.

Base coated does not mean just water based, it means any coating that has a clear coat on top.


The car industry never used 2 pack paints or lacquers, all of their paints and lacquers are baked at very high temperatures up to 160 degrees..
The first front wheel drive Vauxhall Cavaliers were the last models to be painted in convential metallics..ie the lacquer mixed with the metallic coating.
He also states that aluminium flakes used in metallics wasn't a success.
Ali flakes are still used in metallics today, along with Xirralic and other exotic super sparkly substances.

I have no idea on what some makes used, I did have a 3 week coarse at ICI mid 70's and was on their mailing list for years for updates.

Going back to cellulose we used metallic's straight as it was with no clear coat, and yes if not polished regularly, it would dull. When doing a super job, then we would apply a clear coat, mixed with a minimum of 10% colour to give some strength. The effect was good as it had a glass effect with the colour under it.

Aluminum flakes were a more of a success for metallic's once clear coated.

Re the drying curing of paints all the clear coats that I know of use activator's, this does not dry, it cures and the oven speeds the curing process up.

Mercedes did not start using ceramic paint till 2003 on some models/cars only to start with, and yes this paint does have to be fired, so to speak. It was not good to start with as it splintered with a stone chip leaving a hole with very sharp ugly edges, just like a splinter chip on any ceramic object.
We had many post on here about the way that the cars splintered and forecourts where lined with cars showing the white almost bare metal under the holes. We do not get these post anymore.

My 2002 230 had a prefix U after the paint code on the data sheet, and ceramics paints were not used then. I do believe that it is not used today as there is no way that my 216 has ceramic paint, it has a U on the data sheet, but not on the car, and all refinisher's use the plate on the car for the code.

Actually most of what he said in that link was true.was true

 

[Arzaam]

Looking through the hole thread again i have to say that even after a quick clay and polish my paint doesn't look to far off that, certainly a lot more scratches though the main problem i have is i have no where under cover to do the whole job so i have to do it in stages and the finish isn't nearly as good as the OP's.

its okay to do in stages it yields the same result i think, i also tok 4 days to do it not just one session, i spent two days on claying and polishing and further two days on sealing and waxing,

my secret if you can say that is i spent the greater deal of time in glazing( i used a professional glaze rather than a simple polish, a glaze has way more polishing oils) and i also spent a lot of time with Autofinnese Tough prep, its a surface prep liquid that prepares and further polishes the surface befroe sealant, because if you polish or especially glaze it has a lot of polishing oils and the sealant unless water based would simply not bond with the paint for long,

tough prep removes those extra polishing oils and leaves a super flush and clear surface for sealant, btw what products did you use? mind sharing some pictures?

if you want to be sure i can post some pictures with a iPhone camera of any angle you say if you want to properly compare and see. as like i said its in the detailing and proper technique as in before pics my car also looked bit ordinary in colour

btw i did not cut except to remove few scratches on fenders, whatever little scratches were there were masked by the combination of sealants and waxes etc

 

[Xtractorfan]

2 pack paints, mainly clear lacquers, are used only in the aftermarket/ refinishing. mainly due to the inability of bodyshops to bake cars to a high enough temperature to cure one stage finishes. mainly because plastics and fitting on cars would melt and warp...
The latest range of fillers, undercoats and top finishes can be infra red/ UV cured in a matter of minutes.
2002 MB cars could easily have had ceramic lacquer as many new technologies are field tested before commercial release. I would assume that there was a long development period before the ceramic finish was released, and with paint who would even know that a new or different paint had been used.
Letters are normally used to denote different processes and different factories,. so using a U which I have deciphered as Ultra for a different coating process, would seem plausible.

 

[Xtractorfan]

No manufacturer uses any solid paints whatsoever, no matter what you have been told..all paint finishes since the 80s has been clear over base, even blacks and whites.
Find any black car that has not been repainted get a piece of fine sandpaper and rub it lightly with water, or even dry, the residue will be white... white equals clear coat...
No paint manufacturer has used cellulose paint since the 40s.

Mercedes benz or any manufacturer never used Two Pack paints.. Two pack paints were solely invented for the refinish market, ie the bodyshops.

Some smaller car makers like Morgan do use 2 pack lacquers on their cars, as their limited production run would never stretch to a fully blown state of the art painting process.