Mystery ABS ESP message appearance!

[320pilot]

Has anyone experienced this before?

Switched the car on yesterday morning and this message appeared, see photo. A friend put his Icarsoft CR Max scanner on and it showed no fault codes anywhere on the car.

I'm thinking that its a test that has somehow turned itself on and we are not sure how to go about turning it off.

I do know that the left hand rear ABS sensor is faulty and I have a new one ready to fit so maybe that triggered it?

For the time being I have removed the battery in the hope it may all reset when I re-connect it.

Any suggestions will be gratefully received

 

[davidsl500]

It's generally a wheel speed sensor issue. If the car isn't able to communicate with each wheel to determine it's rotation speed then it has to switch off various features like ABS, ESP etc., that needs the rotations speeds to work. Seems very common on MB's. It can also be a rusty/dirty reluctor ring that the speed sensor "reads"

 

[Srdl]

What David said, but if you have a faulty ABS sensor, that’s probably your problem!

 

[tpn]

The photo that you have shown is a standard message when the icarsoft diagnostics is diagnosing the ABS system.
I fail to see how it-diagnostic/rig test- can come on of its own accord. Strange but....

 

[rf065]

The photo that you have shown is a standard message when the icarsoft diagnostics is diagnosing the ABS system.
I fail to see how it-diagnostic/rig test- can come on of its own accord. Strange but....

That was my thinking too. My SLC occasionally switches off the same systems, only on a 3 or 4 hour long run, ICarsoft shows a wheel sensor fault when it happens.

 

[320pilot]

Need more advice please.
I have just fitted a new rotator ring and nearside rear ABS sensor, it seems to no avail. All lights and messages still showing.
I have just bought the CR max scanner hoping I could clear and faults but surprisingly it does not support this vehicle although the company blurb states it will!
The only fault code (other than a couple of minor things) is 4E51.
Would another earlier scanner such as the Icarsoft MBII be able to clear this code and all the dash lights, also would I need it to be Bi-directional to do this?
MOT due very soon so need to sort this asap

 

[rf065]

Have you updated the Icarsoft software to the latest version?
When I updated mine last I was left with a choice of version 11.xx or 12.xx ( mb v2) , the newest version is very selective about which tests it supports whereas choosing the older version, it works each time. Just a thought.

 

[320pilot]

Have you updated the Icarsoft software to the latest version?
When I updated mine last I was left with a choice of version 11.xx or 12.xx ( mb v2) , the newest version is very selective about which tests it supports whereas choosing the older version, it works each time. Just a thought.

Many Thanks for the reply. I only bought it a couple of weeks ago and registered it it straight away. All the latest updates were downloaded then. I will certainly see if I can now download 11.xx.

 

[alexanderfoti]

This is the warning that comes up on the dash if you do not stop communication with the ESP modue. In Xentry, this means pressing back, or ending vehicle comms. If you just unplug the diagnostic machine, you end up with this on the screen.

Try going into ABR, then back out, then into another module. If not, then its a bug in the carsoft software and needs to go on something else to get it out of this mode (or maybe a battery disconnect will sort)

 

[tpn]

You activated the Road Test, this cannot be just switched off. you have to go through the procedure.
This is a post on a similar thread from Benzworld.org; saves a lot of writing.

>>>>>
Car was in ESP road test mode. This is DIFFERENT from turning ESP or traction control off using the procedure we're familiar with in the hidden service menu in the cluster.
ESP road test mode can only be accessed using a good scanner or mercedes's diagnostic system (star xentry). At least that is the way I understand it. I got into ESP road test mode using my icarsoft MB II scanner. This road test mode is only needed if you replace the yaw sensor, which is one of the ESP system sensors. It is mounted under the center console. The icarsoft MB II scanner has no way of turning off the ESP road test mode. The only way is to do the road test SUCCESSFULLY if you want to turn it off.
On our cars, we don't have an ESP off button, so ignore that part of the procedure that is online. If searching online, you'll find the road test procedure. Basically, you go to a parking lot, turn off the car, then turn it on. Right after, you drive at about 10 km/h, turn left at least half a turn and do a quarter Circle, then turn right past Center more than 90° to the right, and do another quarter Circle. In my case, I just drove the car around the neighborhood and did a few turns to either side and that turned the light off.
Now let's back up for a minute. Why was I messing around with the scanner? Because after trying to change the clutch I started up the car and I got an ESP error when I drove it. It turns out that when I disconnected the steering shaft at the steering box input shaft I at some point turned the steering wheel with the shaft disconnected. I was careful but must have done it without realizing it. When I started to diagnose the error with the scanner, I noticed that my steering angle sensor was reading 360 degrees. It didn't look right, but I was so sure that I hadn't messed up the alignment, that I didn't worry too much about it. I tried to reset the steering angle sensor, but I wasn't able to.
For reference, to reset the steering angle sensor, you basically start the car, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to lock and then all the way to the right to lock then turn it back to Center, and turn off the car. But this only works if your steering angle sensor is only slightly off. In my case the steering angle sensor was a full turn off . I had no clue at the time but this is why I was still getting the steering angle sensor error after clearing all the codes, and then driving the car.
At some point later in time, I went into different menus and ended up going into ESP road test mode by mistake.
Because I messed up the alignment of my steering angle sensor, I was not able to do a successful road test. So I had two problems. I had the computer looking for a successful road test, but at the same time because the steering angle sensor was a full turn off, the car was reading the sensors saying that it was going straight, but the steering sensor telling it that the steering wheel was turned.
I finally decided that the reading from the steering sensor was proof that I did mess up when I connected the steering shaft. I had two choices, either disconnect the shaft at the Box and turn the steering wheel till the reading was at zero, or I was going to have to remove the steering wheel , and correct my mistake there, by resetting the position of the steering angle sensor. I chose the safe route because you don't want to break the clock spring inside the steering angle sensor. So I decided I was going to have to remove the airbag and steering wheel and reset the clock spring. Checked a few YouTube videos to help me along the way.
For reference, to reset the steering angle sensor mechanically, you turn it gently all the way counterclockwise, till it stops, then turn it about two and a half turns and align with the bolt bolt holes. There are YouTube videos on this.
Finally when everything was put together, my scanner confirmed that the steering angle sensor now read 0 degrees. I still had the ESP road test on. But after fixing the alignment of the steering angle sensor, I was able to do a successful road test and all the lights went off. I later checked for codes in the scan tool, but everything was clear with no faults.

Bottom line is this. Double check the steering angle sensor reading using a good scanner. This is especially important if you find yourself in ESP road test mode, and cannot get out of it. If the steering angle sensor reading is just slightly off, do the simple steering angle reset procedure by starting the car and turning the steering wheel lock to lock. Then you can do the road test. If it is a full turn off or more, then something was disconnected either the steering shaft to the steering box or maybe the steering wheel at some point and you'll have to access the angle sensor behind the steering wheel and reset it to Center. In that case only then you can do the road test.

benzworld.org

 

[320pilot]

You activated the Road Test, this cannot be just switched off. you have to go through the procedure.
This is a post on a similar thread from Benzworld.org; saves a lot of writing.

>>>>>
Car was in ESP road test mode. This is DIFFERENT from turning ESP or traction control off using the procedure we're familiar with in the hidden service menu in the cluster.
ESP road test mode can only be accessed using a good scanner or mercedes's diagnostic system (star xentry). At least that is the way I understand it. I got into ESP road test mode using my icarsoft MB II scanner. This road test mode is only needed if you replace the yaw sensor, which is one of the ESP system sensors. It is mounted under the center console. The icarsoft MB II scanner has no way of turning off the ESP road test mode. The only way is to do the road test SUCCESSFULLY if you want to turn it off.
On our cars, we don't have an ESP off button, so ignore that part of the procedure that is online. If searching online, you'll find the road test procedure. Basically, you go to a parking lot, turn off the car, then turn it on. Right after, you drive at about 10 km/h, turn left at least half a turn and do a quarter Circle, then turn right past Center more than 90° to the right, and do another quarter Circle. In my case, I just drove the car around the neighborhood and did a few turns to either side and that turned the light off.
Now let's back up for a minute. Why was I messing around with the scanner? Because after trying to change the clutch I started up the car and I got an ESP error when I drove it. It turns out that when I disconnected the steering shaft at the steering box input shaft I at some point turned the steering wheel with the shaft disconnected. I was careful but must have done it without realizing it. When I started to diagnose the error with the scanner, I noticed that my steering angle sensor was reading 360 degrees. It didn't look right, but I was so sure that I hadn't messed up the alignment, that I didn't worry too much about it. I tried to reset the steering angle sensor, but I wasn't able to.
For reference, to reset the steering angle sensor, you basically start the car, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to lock and then all the way to the right to lock then turn it back to Center, and turn off the car. But this only works if your steering angle sensor is only slightly off. In my case the steering angle sensor was a full turn off . I had no clue at the time but this is why I was still getting the steering angle sensor error after clearing all the codes, and then driving the car.
At some point later in time, I went into different menus and ended up going into ESP road test mode by mistake.
Because I messed up the alignment of my steering angle sensor, I was not able to do a successful road test. So I had two problems. I had the computer looking for a successful road test, but at the same time because the steering angle sensor was a full turn off, the car was reading the sensors saying that it was going straight, but the steering sensor telling it that the steering wheel was turned.
I finally decided that the reading from the steering sensor was proof that I did mess up when I connected the steering shaft. I had two choices, either disconnect the shaft at the Box and turn the steering wheel till the reading was at zero, or I was going to have to remove the steering wheel , and correct my mistake there, by resetting the position of the steering angle sensor. I chose the safe route because you don't want to break the clock spring inside the steering angle sensor. So I decided I was going to have to remove the airbag and steering wheel and reset the clock spring. Checked a few YouTube videos to help me along the way.
For reference, to reset the steering angle sensor mechanically, you turn it gently all the way counterclockwise, till it stops, then turn it about two and a half turns and align with the bolt bolt holes. There are YouTube videos on this.
Finally when everything was put together, my scanner confirmed that the steering angle sensor now read 0 degrees. I still had the ESP road test on. But after fixing the alignment of the steering angle sensor, I was able to do a successful road test and all the lights went off. I later checked for codes in the scan tool, but everything was clear with no faults.

Bottom line is this. Double check the steering angle sensor reading using a good scanner. This is especially important if you find yourself in ESP road test mode, and cannot get out of it. If the steering angle sensor reading is just slightly off, do the simple steering angle reset procedure by starting the car and turning the steering wheel lock to lock. Then you can do the road test. If it is a full turn off or more, then something was disconnected either the steering shaft to the steering box or maybe the steering wheel at some point and you'll have to access the angle sensor behind the steering wheel and reset it to Center. In that case only then you can do the road test.

benzworld.org

Thank you. I will try this tomorrow.

 

[Botus]

I don't think the owner activated it - I suspect a faulty reading brought this in to play. (from either of the common issues - snapped wires in the ABS wheel speed sensors, or the reluctor ring is old and sending gibberish info)

many cars have ESP now - a main element of this driver assistance aid, is valid wheel speed data. Thus it uses each wheel's ABS sensor data, the inertia sensor data for yaw, information on steering input angle and vehicle speed. As ABS is happy to do its bit with random rubbish from each wheel, its far less critical of the data quality. But ESP needs everything talking sense.

Once the car has thrown its self out of whack, we need to re-establish the right data, then ensure the car's ESP calibration process is happy

 

[alexanderfoti]

I have had lazy abs sensors (ones that read 5% slow) cause esp road test to be activated constantly.

 

[320pilot]

Since fitting the new reluctor ring and sensor the ESP light has now gone out, however the road test message is still showing and the ABS light is still on. I have tried the road test and disconnecting the battery to no avail. The new Icarsoft CR max does not seem to have the means to perform this on my car so I have just purchased a much cheaper Topdon AL600 Artlink which has an active test facility. A friend assures me that this will turn off the message. Fingers crossed.

 

[tpn]

Again you cannot just turn off the road test in my experience. I have the icarsoft MB dedicated unit and a CR and both are capable of completing the road test, but it has to be done properly.
The feature is at the beginning of the sequence. When you select your car do not do a scan, choose from the selectable items wherein the regen, oil reset etc are.

 

[320pilot]

Again you cannot just turn off the road test in my experience. I have the icarsoft MB dedicated unit and a CR and both are capable of completing the road test, but it has to be done properly.
The feature is at the beginning of the sequence. When you select your car do not do a scan, choose from the selectable items wherein the regen, oil reset etc are.

Thank you for your reply. Please see photo of the items on the scanner page you suggested. It seems to me that the only test i can do on there is for the steering angle. The steering tests out at 0 degrees and is working fine. No suggestion of an ABS test. Am I missing something? Your advice is appreciated.

 

[Botus]

my car went mad after some suspension work and an adjusting bolt was put in making it worse - this brought up the I'm confused message you had - I couldn't sort it with similar level of diagnostic kit you have - its intentional the manu wants to charge 300 quid for 15 mins work

oddly I'd been lock to lock, both forward and reverse and phaffed about then I put a destination in the nav and it switched off inside 100m - knowing now I can't see how that could have been connected - but then the dealer tools don't work either.....

Since that event with far posher diagnostic kit I've struggled to get past the test stage and when Snap On came round with a genuine version of STAR (merc diagnostics) and they upset the car testing and checking stuff - it took three attempts to get the car happy following the connected test drive routine using genuine dealer kit

 

[ajlsl600]

That was my thinking too. My SLC occasionally switches off the same systems, only on a 3 or 4 hour long run, ICarsoft shows a wheel sensor fault when it happens.

Had same on w166 was wheel speed sensor sensor, as said common. Prob made by cheapest bidder.
Of note, never changed one on 19 Yr old w168 or 20 Yr old w208. Component reliability. Has certainly NOT Improved. I wonder why? Methinks, maker deliberate policy to lower making costs to that statistically likely to last warranty period.
Which to me puts benz in same position as all others, real quality is an illusion based on the past. With exception of cockpit, toys cleverly designed to suck us in, 3 times so far for me and only one I saw, enjoyed lasting quality was w208 is it accidental that that is the oldest of all three.

 

[Botus]

Which to me puts benz in same position as all others, real quality is an illusion based on the past. With exception of cockpit, toys cleverly designed to suck us in, 3 times so far for me and only one I saw, enjoyed lasting quality was w208 is it accidental that that is the oldest of all three.

Hyundai have a 7 year warranty - yet nothing coming out of Germany offers more than 3 years (and the latest stuff is already failing by then)

its age related designed to fail engineering - germany is sick - they want such high pay the only way its economically viable is to design it all to fail - convert the wealthy to a lease it trouble free life, and it keeps the vehicles flying out of the door and then they make additional profits stealing from the poor people keeping their junk running


this started with Merc in 1997 with BMW in the same place by 2003 and VW joining shortly after, ford and opel have been on the same page for 17 years and the Japanese started from 2018 - of course the vehicle still exists - but its economically viable life span hits this timeline

car timeline
1990 to 2000 rust and a lack of maintenance wins (how many can you find?)
2000 to 2005 with maint should get 20 years (so long at its not from Stuttgart)
2007 to 2011 10-15 years
2012 to 2015 8 years
2019 5 years
BMW 2022 bikes about 18 months - but that's OK as you lease it for 2 years then its scrapped

 

[ajlsl600]

We are close, wot cracks me up is how so many come to accept it as normal.! £1000 POUND headlights, come on. Engineered so a 15 Yr old running car is scrapped for the cost of. Or insurers do same for frond end damage on 8byr old? Who do we thing ultimately pays for all this. I know it ain't car makers or insurers. Don't start me on iPhone.