New owner with a few issues/questions

[Timmyboy]

I'm hoping my introduction is now showing in the newbies section

I've recently bought a 2005 CLK 55 convertible with 98k on the clock. Full and comprehensive main dealer history, the last couple of years looked after by Avantgarde in Clevedon.

The car was in constant use until the past 3 years or so due to the last owner unfortunately becoming unwell so very few miles covered recently. I noticed a couple of minor issues immediately on receipt of the car (though it drove perfectly), which quickly escallated with an EPS/ABS fault, a scoring sound from the rear and an obvious noise at around 50 mph. I intended to get some overdue maintenance bits and pieces sorted anyway, so as I'm only an hour from Avantgarde I booked it in feeling very sorry for myself and, having paid a bill to the tune of 1/5 the price paid for the car the EPS issue is now resolved (tired wheel bearing caused a wobbly wheel to take out the speed sensor, also explaining the noise) and some feel-good stuff done at the same time: brake fluid, gearbox service, air con regass, diff oil change etc etc. Avantgarde were excellent (Steve and Craig the 2 names I came away with) and I forsee a wallet rinsing relationship forming with them as I'm already very fond of this car and want to see it right.

So, had the car back with me for 2 more weeks and no more lights (!!) but I still have a list of issue and questions - would be grateful for any help and advice. Rather than create a load of individual posts I'll lump them all together - hope this is ok and apologies for a huge 2nd post. Issues first, then questions.

1) The multi contour seats don't work either side (no adjustment from any button). Not sure what else is vacuum operated on these cars, but everything else (including locks) all working fine. I see some mention of sanding off wear to the pump motor or possible a disconnected/split vacuum hose. Best place to start?

2) New issue as of yesterday - lock car, hazards started flashing an hour later, no alarm, no obvious reason. When I got the car, one of the 'active' faults was 'fault in communication to alarm signal siren' and now I read around, seems to be a very common issue (including Avantgarde's hire car!). I've bought a replacement siren so will see if that sorts it (and re-check for active faults, and whether they then disappear). I also don't get chirps when locking/unlocking, not sure if that is by default or not as people who fit new sirens then report chirps are heard.

3) Clicking from the mid-left of the dashboard for about 20 seconds on start. Seems a common fault with the plastic stepper motor parts but as I have decent heating coming from the top vents I'm not overly bothered given it looks like a dashboard out job which I don't think I'm brave enough to tackle.

4) This is the one worrying me. Since buying the car, it has been slow to crank. Avantgarde checked the battery, condemned it and fitted a nice new Bosch one - but it hasn't changed the behaviour. It is only slow for the FIRST crank in the starting cycle if that makes sense, so it sounds like a drained/struggling battery initially for one chug, then it spins up very quick and fast, and fires the engine into life. Sometimes it takes a longer than expected time for the fast spinning to fire the engine and today, for the first time, it actually failed to start the car (having completed a small journey an hour before) but it fired up fine the next attempt. Starter motor? Crank position sensor?

5) Keyless go issue. All working fine (doors, boot) and on a cold start will start and stop the engine happily using the button on the gear stick. Small journeys also fine using the start stop button. However, if completing a longer journey (45 minutes plus) I am unable to stop the engine using the start/stop button - it just does nothing, meaning I have to get the key out of my pocket and insert into the dash, at which point the engine stops.

6) Cutting out after starting - it has only done this twice. Start the car, then a couple of seconds later it cuts out completely including all electronics. The lights then come back on the dash, re-start and all normal (did wonder whether this may have been battery related)

7) Question on rear windows. My conclusion having played with the car and read through the manual is that the front windows ONLY are one touch, the rear windows are not. Further to this and despite reading forum posts/a US based manual for my car, I can't find any way of raising/lowering all 4 windows at the same time without also starting the roof dropping procedure. (my confusion is: there is a suggestion that the re-circ button on the dash can be held to open all windows, and also using the convertible top button by pressing it once, then twice and holding will do the windows only - but none of these work)

8) Everything I read tells me the CD changer in the glove box should be MP3 compatible - but I've tried most suggestions I've found regarding format and software etc and I can't get the change to read a home burned disc (Verbatim CD-R). Does anyone have a definitive pointer here, or is my changer possibly not MP3 compatible after all? (would need to remove it to check the exact model number)

9) Heated seats - I'm not convinced I can actually feel anything, compared to my VW Passat anyway which can get uncomfortable warm. Are they obvious when they operate?

10) I have the Harmon Kardon option - has anyone successfully fitted an after market head unit (for Android Auto is the main reason - a mainstream brand such as Pioneer rather than one of those Android based units which admitted look very stock) using one of the available fibre optic converters, without resorting to re-wiring the car to each speaker?

Thanks in advance. That's it for now, promise.

Tim.

 

[Blobcat]

Double tap back on the roof button might put all the windows down (it does in my SL)

Heated seats should be hot

I‘d be looking at the electrical system as it sounds like you have a few issues. Main battery lead and earth all good?

 

[ajlsl600]

Bang on ref siren stupid design dtf means batt leaks on pcb 100 quid if do yourself
Check wiring, earth's ect on starter circuit. Then maybe u have tired starter.
If heated seats working u will sure know that I think I cud have warmed up a pastey on my Vdoz seats . Also my CD player would not play self made CD, s tho I believe there may be a formatting change that will work?
On rear windows check ur handbook cud be a child safety thing?

 

[V6Matty]

Also worth asking @steve@avantguard who’s a member of this parish as well if he knows the history of the car and might be able to point to anything

 

[Timmyboy]

Thanks all for the pointers - much appreciated.

Double tap back on the roof button might put all the windows down (it does in my SL)

Heated seats should be hot

I‘d be looking at the electrical system as it sounds like you have a few issues. Main battery lead and earth all good?

Windows: I re-read the manual and it does clearly say to quickly double tap the roof button and hold the second push to raise/lower all 4 windows together - tried it in the car and all working fine.

Heated seats: Had a few passengers in the car now and all struggling to tell whether the seats are working or not - the lights come on as expected (3 first, then 2, then 1, then off eventually) so my conclusion is they're not functioning correctly and it's likely due to the heating elements being faulty. Back burner item - found another post and there is a company which will completely replace existing elements with carbon versions which are much more reliable and use existing wiring/switches etc etc so will most probably go down this route in the new year.

Electricals: yes definately something up here. The slow initial crank continues and had a few more cut outs too. Battery terminals all clean and rust free.

Bang on ref siren stupid design dtf means batt leaks on pcb 100 quid if do yourself
Check wiring, earth's ect on starter circuit. Then maybe u have tired starter.
If heated seats working u will sure know that I think I cud have warmed up a pastey on my Vdoz seats . Also my CD player would not play self made CD, s tho I believe there may be a formatting change that will work?

Siren: bought a new part for £106 from Ebay, supplied by Mercedes Edinburgh. Swapped over yesterday in the freezing cold - fairly straighforward but the new siren had a slightly different fitting (a standard bolt thread which accepts a nut rather than a bolt hole which accepts a security torx bolt as on the original siren) but got it all fitted and the alarm is now 'chirping' on locking/unlocking the car. No more flashing indicators as yet, though they were intermittent - hopefully sorted though.

Starter: haven't thought to check any earth straps but yes, the more I read around it feels like the starter needs replacing. Not sure I fancy this on my driveway so will probably book it in to be diagnose and swapped. Part is fairly cheap so hope the labour not too bad.

CD: will fiddle a bit more. I've pickedup a cheap iPod as my car comes with the factory iPod cable option which does work nicely with the dashboard display, though is a bit on the quiet side. Another low priority thing to chase.

 

[Larkone]

CD: will fiddle a bit more. I've pickedup a cheap iPod as my car comes with the factory iPod cable option which does work nicely with the dashboard display, though is a bit on the quiet side. Another low priority thing to chase.

Common issue but some systems have a volume boost for aux devices. Worth checking the menu items once you have selected that input.

 

[brandwooddixon]

Windows - many MB will drop all windows if you keep the unlock button depressed on the key fob and pointed at the drivers door handle - not sure if this drops the roof on a convertible though.

Contour seats - check for broken pipes underneath the seat. Only needs one to crack to stop the lot. Can be damaged by having objects in the rear passenger footwell and moving the set back.

Heating elements often break - one in the seat base, one in the back rest. Continuity (allow for resistance) using connector underneath would show this. You'll know when they're working. I think that you have to replace the whole pad to fix.

CD - have you tried CD+R?

 

[Timmyboy]

Common issue but some systems have a volume boost for aux devices. Worth checking the menu items once you have selected that input.

That's a good shout, thanks - I see a few posts about it, so will see if it's available on my CLK (I did update to the latest version and maps when I bought the car).

Contour seats - check for broken pipes underneath the seat. Only needs one to crack to stop the lot. Can be damaged by having objects in the rear passenger footwell and moving the set back.

Heating elements often break - one in the seat base, one in the back rest. Continuity (allow for resistance) using connector underneath would show this. You'll know when they're working. I think that you have to replace the whole pad to fix.

CD - have you tried CD+R?

Ta - a few things to be checking when the weather warms up next year, thanks for the pointers. I haven't tried CD+R, mainly because all the posts I've read suggest CD-R is the best format choice and I only have CD-R's to hand. I did have a face palm moment though as I've also read that the main head unit can read MP3 files (once the sat nav DVD is removed) but I didn't think to try my burned discs there, only the CD changer - and I chucked them in the bin in annoyance

On a less positive note, my alarm went off this afternoon having been behaving itself since installing the new siren on Saturday. So all I've achieved is now having an intermittently annoyingly loud flashing car, rather than just an intermittently flashing car. More detective work required!

 

[brandwooddixon]

That's a good shout, thanks - I see a few posts about it, so will see if it's available on my CLK (I did update to the latest version and maps when I bought the car).



Ta - a few things to be checking when the weather warms up next year, thanks for the pointers. I haven't tried CD+R, mainly because all the posts I've read suggest CD-R is the best format choice and I only have CD-R's to hand. I did have a face palm moment though as I've also read that the main head unit can read MP3 files (once the sat nav DVD is removed) but I didn't think to try my burned discs there, only the CD changer - and I chucked them in the bin in annoyance

On a less positive note, my alarm went off this afternoon having been behaving itself since installing the new siren on Saturday. So all I've achieved is now having an intermittently annoyingly loud flashing car, rather than just an intermittently flashing car. More detective work required!

I seem to recall using burned CDs in my old W210 and it being a bit fussy regarding discs. I also had to burn them at a slower speed than the default that the burner supported (down from say 32 to 8 times). That may be more down to the discs that I used.

 

[Timmyboy]

Ok, some time has passed, I've had a round of diagnostics completed by my other local indy, some new issues cropped up and some answers. Will keep updating here for the benefit of future browsers (like me a few months ago!).

Other local indy is 'Class Motor Services' about 15 minutes away from me - so I'm lucky to have 2 well regarded independents within a fairly short drive. Very good experience here, knows his stuff and very reasonable rates.

Referring to the original numbers in my first post:

1) Multi contour seats. Not the carbon build up issue in this case, just diagnosed to be a faulty/weak pump. I took a punt and ordered a pair from Ebay, £50 for the both. 1 was noisy and weak but did add a small amount of air to the seats. The other is quiet and strong - I assume normal - and pumps up both seats very firmly. Fixed.

2) The alarm issues only happened a couple of times. According to STAR, the last 2 activations were due to the interior sensors (and I've had no activiations recently) so I'm chalking this up to a wandering spider or drip of condensation inside. Actually good news I think - the siren was clearly broken and needed replacing and if I'm ever in a situation where I definitely DON'T want to risk having hazards/siren flashing and blaring when I'm away from home I'll just disable the interior sensors with one prod of the dashboard button. Assuming fixed.

4) Slow initial crank: no issues with earth straps or anything else obvious. Indy agrees most likely needs a new starter motor so will monitor this year and budget to potentially replace at some point unless my hand is forced sooner.

5) Keyless go. No errors logged, nothing from STAR. Same behaviour still with only NOT being able to turn the engine off after driving for a least 45 minutes, so remain baffled - but not a problem in the grand scheme of things. Not going to progress - though have just ordered some new batteries for the remote as a last thing to rule out.

6) Cutting out after starting. Again no errors and hasn't done it for a while. Not progressing.

8) CD changer: I'm giving up. Have double checked the head unit now, and it also refuses to read my burned MP3 discs. The iPod solution works, but it needs the iPod manually turning on each time the battery drains (which is most of the time as the car is infrequently used) so giving up on that too. Have gone old school, grabbed 12 CDs from the loft (6 for the changer, 6 for the clever storage thingy in the glovebox) and am actually quite enjoying the almost retro experience of listening to a full album track by track, how I used to when I was a teenager!

9) Heated seats. Power confirmed to both seats, at each of the 3 settings. Indy thought he could feel heat, but not 100% sure. Now I check a bit closer (and use the car with just a t-shirt on) they definitely are heating, just not very much. Hard to notice through a thick jumper, for example. I've had some quote around the £600 mark from a few companies to swap out the heat pads with modern carbon versions and retain the factory wiring and buttons - so one to consider for the future, but not now.

More generally, I'm really enjoying the car and look forward to spring/summer to get out with the roof down. Aside from some minor maintenance bits and pieces the only other things on my radar are to refurb the wheels (need to figure out the best way to get them off the car for a couple of weeks) and make it a bit louder. From what I've read it has no resonator, so I think I'm limited to removing the secondary CAT - needs a bit more research and possibly popping into a specialist.

 

[Frontstep]

Louder ?

Whats up with quieter ?

Enjoy the world were not here long.

 

[Timmyboy]

Ha, yes it's a controversial one isn't it.

A big part of the V8 appeal is the noise, for me anyway. I've had a V8 Jag before which had some aftermarket Adamesh rear boxes - it was about the perfect balance of V8 burble, no drone, and not being annoying; it's a very fine line. The C63 onward era of AMG's I think are a bit OTT as a counter example.

The CLK, unless exploring the upper rev ranges, is just a bit too subtle in everyday driving for me - which some people would welcome.

 

[grayb]

We had a CLK55 after our original W202 C43 and the older car definitely had a better sound. As you say, the CLK55 only sounded right when revved. The C43 wasn't louder, just 'fruitier'.

 

[Jason63]

I would monitor the battery voltage with the engine running. Should be really steady, say for example 14.2V to 14.3V (actual value depends on the temperature, battery state of charge, etc.). If it's bouncing around then the alternator brushes are worn (likely at 100k miles). This means your battery will be intermittently charging and the vehicle electrics may behave oddly.

I don't know how sophisticated your car electronics are but on a BMW (from 2004 onwards) things like heated seats are the first thing to be disabled when the car thinks the car battery is flat.

Flat battery may explain the starter too.

If the charge voltage is flicking around e.g. 12V to 15V, could be less or more, then you don't always have to change the whole alternator - just the regulator (which includes the brushes).

 

[BillyBoy]

Don't know if starter motor technology has moved on, but 35 years ago when I used to fix such things, the power to the motor was via two contacts at the back of the solenoid - energising the solenoid threw the crank cog forward and closed the contacts to power up the starter motor ( sorry if I'm teaching anyone to suck eggs!) The symptoms you describe were quite common in older starters, but just required a new solenoid - on the Cortina, a quick and cheap job. Better than replacing the whole starter motor.

 

[EmilysDad]

.....s, but just required a new solenoid - on the Cortina, a quick and cheap job. Better than replacing the whole starter motor.

but on a Cortina, removal of the starter was a 10 min job. If a new solenoid didn't fix it, it was only another 10 mins to remove it again to replace it. By the time you've spent half a day removing the starter these days, I'd just replace it.
I know a Smart Roadster is a bit extreme in that the engine/transmission is packed into a tiny place, it took me hours to remove my Roadster's starter (due to being slow to turn) & there was no way I was gong to fit anything but a genuine starter ... despite it costing half as much again as those on eBay etc

 

[Timmyboy]

A while later, some updates on the above issues:

2) Alarm continues to be triggered by the interior sensors. Now into the habit of disabling them every time I leave the car, but it's a pain.

4) Slow initial crank: not any better, not any worse. I was planning on fitting a new starter but the EIS is now giving me grief (see new post just created )

5) Keyless go. Getting worse. Both handles now not able to either lock or unlock - boot still happy to. Have bought a brand new/old stock driver handle to see if it is the common wiring issue, not a huge priority.

6) Cutting out after starting. Still happens, noticing it more often

Wheels: 2nd hand set sourced and refurbed - they look great.

Noise: my local fabricator chopped out the original back box and re-used the original AMG pipes with a replacement back box. I'm 80% happy with the result - lovely V8 noise which at low RPMs which naturally gives way to induction noise when pressing on. The only negative is that it is a touch on the loud side/boomy when pootling around at low speeds, in built up streets. Better/more enjoyable that it was though.

 

[Timmyboy]

More updates:

4) New starter fitted, all related issues happily resolved.

6) Refurbished EIS fitted, all related issues (failing to crank, cutting out after starting etc) 100% sorted!