number plate screws????

rajinder_1

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Hi guys,
after having the SL for 1 yr i though i would change the old number plates to some new ones.
took the screws out the back and 3 out of th 4 screws snapped in there....
whats the best way to either remove the 3 duff fastners or take out the remainding bits of the screw left in the holders????

Raj
 

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi guys,
after having the SL for 1 yr i though i would change the old number plates to some new ones.
took the screws out the back and 3 out of th 4 screws snapped in there....
whats the best way to either remove the 3 duff fastners or take out the remainding bits of the screw left in the holders????

Raj

Hi Raj,center pop the exact center of the broken screw,go through with a very small drill as they are easy to keep in the center of the hole. The screws are M6 I can give you more details in the morning
 

busby20

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Halfords - probably other accessory autostores, have thick double sided adhesive strips which are specially for number plates. You attach to your new plates and stick over the top of the screw fixings, easy solution, - or, you can try remove them, which usually pulls the paint off the surrounding area (trust me I've been there) - and you then need to re-paint.
 

television

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Halfords - probably other accessory autostores, have thick double sided adhesive strips which are specially for number plates. You attach to your new plates and stick over the top of the screw fixings, easy solution, - or, you can try remove them, which usually pulls the paint off the surrounding area (trust me I've been there) - and you then need to re-paint.

The sticky pads would have to be quite thick as the stand off spacers are probably 5mm proud of the rear panel
 

busby20

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The sticky pads would have to be quite thick as the stand off spacers are probably 5mm proud of the rear panel

They are thick enough to stand proud of the broken screw fixings - as long as the screws are flush with the inserts - I experienced this problem when I was replacing a rear no: plate on the SLK. I started by trying to remove the screw and fixing first, but the paint began to peel off - so was easier to stick new plates over screw fixings, you don't notice anything once the plate is on.
 

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They are thick enough to stand proud of the broken screw fixings - as long as the screws are flush with the inserts - I experienced this problem when I was replacing a rear no: plate on the SLK. I started by trying to remove the screw and fixing first, but the paint began to peel off - so was easier to stick new plates over screw fixings, you don't notice anything once the plate is on.

Yes, I do agree with you as a solution if you are not engineering minded or equipped
 

busby20

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Yes, I do agree with you as a solution if you are not engineering minded or equipped

Funnily enough - my oldest son, "fully qualified precision engineer"-advisor to all of non qualified status (i.e. me ) quothed - "yeah dad, good idea - I'll make the tea".
 

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Funnily enough - my oldest son, "fully qualified precision engineer"-advisor to all of non qualified status (i.e. me ) quothed - "yeah dad, good idea - I'll make the tea".

Thank the lord for these modern adhesives, If I recall the last tread on this we ended up with pads as being the best solution. it was bad of MB to use to opposite metals on the voltage scale for these things.
 

BarryG

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I would go for sorting the screw option, its far too easy to pull off the adhesive ones. Had 2 sets stolen myself. It will have been kids both times, as my son found one plate in a tree two streets away.:(
 

100%Bitch

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I would go for sorting the screw option, its far too easy to pull off the adhesive ones. Had 2 sets stolen myself. It will have been kids both times, as my son found one plate in a tree two streets away.:(

I agree with Barry. I find that on hot days (what's one of those?) they tend to fall off. I've lost a couple that way.
 
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rajinder_1

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i will take to my friends body shop, he said he may be able to remove the screws, if not looks like good old tape....
i was going to apply the tape but ran out of it half way through....

thanks for your input guys
Raj
 

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i will take to my friends body shop, he said he may be able to remove the screws, if not looks like good old tape....
i was going to apply the tape but ran out of it half way through....

thanks for your input guys
Raj

Get the number plate holder from MB much nicer
 

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Blobcat

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I removed my rear plate last weekend and found that when the VW/Audi Bodyshop had removed one of the screws they had broken then nutsert in the boot lid so the screw just turned around. They had 'fixed' it with some silicon sealant the bodgers. :evil: Probably thinking that no one would ever notice.
I ended up cutting the screw head off with my dremel tool so I could get the plate off.
 

television

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2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
I removed my rear plate last weekend and found that when the VW/Audi Bodyshop had removed one of the screws they had broken then nutsert in the boot lid so the screw just turned around. They had 'fixed' it with some silicon sealant the bodgers. :evil: Probably thinking that no one would ever notice.
I ended up cutting the screw head off with my dremel tool so I could get the plate off.

So that would account for the speed you were going in the where am I thread.
No rear plate,, It fell off officer, honest
 
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rajinder_1

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back plate

Get the number plate holder from MB much nicer

Malc,
the holed still needs to screw in at the back, the from is ok and i have put that on as it was, but the back has about 7 layers of tape between the screw holes...
i got some stuff from bodyshop should hold it on, but i will eventually try and either remove the nut things or take the screws out of them...

Raj
 

television

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2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
Malc,
the holed still needs to screw in at the back, the from is ok and i have put that on as it was, but the back has about 7 layers of tape between the screw holes...
i got some stuff from bodyshop should hold it on, but i will eventually try and either remove the nut things or take the screws out of them...

Raj

If you cant drill them out, I would leave the encapsulated threaded studs in to avoid doing damage to the paint work surrounding the studs and keep the pads

You could drill a smaller hole through the studs and use smaller nuts an bolts
 

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