Oh Dear me CL500 front suspension seems to have self destroyed in 1,836 miles - should I believe MD?

Submariner1

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In June 22 car sails thro MOT, no advisories.
In Jan 23, at 54,582 on a Service B, i.e only 1,836 miles later the Main Dealer says the following needs:-
Urgent Attention :-
Front Spring Control Arm ball joints excessive play £1152
Front Wheel bearings excessive play Adjust £122
Advisory:-
Rear Prop coupling starting to split £379

As the car then drove perfectly, and 2 services before they had said one wheel bearing had play, but both a good Mb breakdown tech and MBS said it was fine, i.e. one notch adjustment would have been 2 much. So I just ignored it.

Call me stupid, but I really would have thought Control Arm Ball joints and Prop shaft couplings would have done a lot more than 50K miles, a CL being the most expensive S Class & I drive very gently ( circa 10mph over speed humps etc.) or am I asking too much? Or is a time thing as its a 2009 car?
I guess my mistrust arises when I asked the MD to check the diff oil level at the service, and they said nobody there knew how to do it? But they knew how to replace the diff oil! . So were these nice little “earner jobs“ determined by the same mechanic! Note in wiz it says fill Diff till it overflows on a level surface, then secure plug.

Q Do both control arm ball joints and both prop coulings normally go at the same time.?

To make matters worse, up came the dreaded ABS ESP light and icarsoft scanner says the front left Sensor has failed.
Note I had all 4 replaced @ 44, 601 miles i.e 10,236 miles ago.
so the first ones lasted 44K and the new one only lasted 10K miles .??
Q, Could a loose wheel bearing throw the signal out enough to send an error message?
I think these are £97
Total £1,970
So about a £1 a mile repair costs …. ****** good job I don't do 12,000 Miles p.a.
 

SL63 Mark

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In my experience, this is what you get when you go to a main dealer with an older car. They will find everything possible wrong with it, whether it needs doing or not. I would take what they say with a pinch of salt, and take the car to a Mercedes Independent Specialist, for a second opinion.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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In my experience, this is what you get when you go to a main dealer with an older car. They will find everything possible wrong with it, whether it needs doing or not. I would take what they say with a pinch of salt, and take the car to a Mercedes Independent Specialist, for a second opinion.
In my experience, this is what you get when you go to a main dealer with an older car. They will find everything possible wrong with it, whether it needs doing or not. I would take what they say with a pinch of salt, and take the car to a Mercedes Independent Specialist, for a second opinion.
Yeah Agreed,
just checked the visual service video they sent later.
NB on the Service Invoice sheet it says Urgent Attn. Rear Prop Shaft Coupling Split.
But in the video the Techn. show to me a near perfect Coupling - no sign of even crazing, and he says “there is the start of some fine cracking on the coupling - but this is an advisory only - something to keep an eye on“.

Got to get her into MBS as the MOT comes up soon and I have done 230 miles since advised the wheel bearings need tightening. So need to get that done before they wear badly.
 

AMGeed

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I'd be inclined to go with Cole's advice at MBS over the main dealer.
We all know their brake disc and pad worn out line to engineer work.
In fact unless you really want to keep FMDSH I wouldn't be taking an 09 plate car anywhere other than a good indy for all servicing and repair work.
 

peterws1957

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MB dealer tried the £1200 control arm thing on our 09 216 the first time I took it in for service in our ownership. I declined, had it inspected by an indie who said they were fine. No MOT issues or mention by the same MB dealer in the 4 years since. Try on? - who knows?
 

SL63 Mark

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I had the same with my SL55. Multiple suspension and transmission parts needed replacing according to MB. However the car drove perfectly, and my independent said they had plenty of life. Their philosophy is to quote for what it would take to turn a 15 year old car with 50,000 miles into a brand new one.

There is no dishonesty as such, that is how they work, and as long as you realise that, just use them for what they can do. I have a perfectly good relationship with them.
 

ajlsl600

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Easy jobs easy money fast workshop turn around, cash flow , it where its at....no chance I going near dealer even 4 pts unless I can't avoid it....
 
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Submariner1

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Hmmm as its sunny, I jacked up the front.
Yes there is play in both the hubs, so guess thats wheel bearings Play.
But when I yanked the wheel top and bottom, i.e. pushed at the top and pulled at the bottom and then the opposite direction, the ball joint area did not move at all, but the there was movement when it went into the hub, i.e. all the play seemed to be in the hub (wheel bearing) .
likewise no movement in the arm end where the big bushing/bearing mounts to the body.
Q is that how you check it?

Re the Caster Arm bushes, in the service video, yes I can see some slight separation, ( call it a fine crack) where the rubber bearing/bush goes into the arm one the side the tech. Showed in the video. But no movement at all.
The other side seemed fine, in fairness difficult to see with the wheel on.
Q if there was slight separation would that fail the MOT?

Definitely need to get it to MBS.
 

ajlsl600

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Doubt it but possible. On wheel bearings take pads out spin wheel no noise? Tighten wheel bearing till no play, at all, back off until slight play fix adjust nut. I generally remove and repack bearings . Never more than 2/3rd fill hub allows grease expansion, over packing generates more heat.
 

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Malcolm Johnson

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I will add something re the Ball Joints. Last September at my mots on the cars i had a advisory, re ball joints on the SL. Bought from auto doc last winter and fitted by the mobile mechanic I've known 20 years this spring. Lemforder 33773 01. Took him 2.5 hours.(i know my limitations these days) he was having fun and had all the tools. The old ball joints were sloppy.
My advice is avoid Stealers.
 
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Submariner1

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Yes, though you may need to use a pry bar to check properly.


Hard to say without photos but probably not.
Thanks most helpful.
But I do still have an intermittent horrible noise, that has just started, going over potholes, sounds like a spring has broken. Then its silent like normal for 5 mins. the noise is on the front side I had a new suspension leg 11,000 miles ago. All looks OK. And using ABC to raise/lower the car, it goes up/down smoothly with no noises.
Q is there an actual spring in these front ABC legs? Say under that black boot/jacket?
I have checked that there is no separation at the top, when the car is jacked up.
 

bembo449

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my older brother has a 17 plate focus , 3 years ago it was advised it needed front brakes , i checked them , they were about a 3rd worn if that , service last week , same brakes were not even mentioned . . . . . you cant trust main dealers
 

mioba

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I use MB dealers to ONLY service only my car as I need mobilo. I provide oil (mobil 1) and all MB filters that I collect via ebay when dirt cheap and other bits and bobs.

My last B service on my W220 was quoted at 700 quid, me providing all the bits it was about 265.

They hate me for it and I love it.

After the visual inspection they come back with front pads need doing (do the disks too) front suspension needs doing, an alleged diesel leak ao - we are happy to do it for you for 3750 + VAT - FO I say. Do they think money grows on trees.

Checked the pads 6mm on them. Disks within spec, had my MOT done a few weeks before and nothing wrong with suspension - confirmed by my indy.

Got under the car and followed the fuel lines - not a wet patch anywhere.

Moral of the story - don't trust the dealers - they play on the perceived ignorance/fear of customer.

I sent a nice email to MB customer services with a copy of the visual inspection, photos of pads and disks, MOT and note from indy.

100 pound voucher from the dealer and no doubt a kick in the nads.
 

Malcolm Johnson

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The jolt going over pot holes could be your ball joint lifting and dropping metal to metal. Mine did over sleeping policemen.
no jolt now. Abc is hydraulic suspension.
 

LostKiwi

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Q is there an actual spring in these front ABC legs? Say under that black boot/jacket?
Yes there is (at least on an R230). The lower plate where the boot seals is the bottom spring platform. The spring itself is very lightweight and has progressive thickness along its length.
I've not heard of one breaking though Malcolm's car did break the platform itself. Never made any noise just wouldn't lift evenly at the front. On max height setting that corner was always low.
 
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Submariner1

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Yes there is (at least on an R230). The lower plate where the boot seals is the bottom spring platform. The spring itself is very lightweight and has progressive thickness along its length.
I've not heard of one breaking though Malcolm's car did break the platform itself. Never made any noise just wouldn't lift evenly at the front. On max height setting that corner was always low.
Thanks, Pressing my boot I thought I could feel one. But as its the “new” one I didn’t press very throughly.
only asked, as it sounded a bit like when wifes AClass got a cracked through Spring on the last curl.

Mine lifts evenly and stays up or down at the same level - once after going up and down - once settled, the front end creaked for a second or two.

Hmmm if it failed after 10,000 miles do MB still do sympathetic warranty like they used to - or are the good old days all over.?

Only ask as one of my SL500s bought from new needed a new front leg at 17,000 miles and MB paid for everything. it was nearly 3 years old, and I was NOT IMPRESSED!
 
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Submariner1

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As I have Mobilo, rang them and they came 6 hrs later. Just belt and braces, didn’t want to have a wheel collapse on a bend on the way to MBS. As its 65 miles.

Actually it was the RAC who attended on MBs behalf, his code reader could not tell which wheel sensor was “implausible”. My iCarsoft MBII says its front left.
He said I did not need 4 new arms (spring or castor), no play on any.
He did agree with the Dealer that the wheel bearings needed tightening up.
He thought my horrible “noise” could be the brake backing plate touching the disc due to wheel bearing flex.
Or although highly unlikely, that maybe part of the squeak was because the top of the strut was not rotating smoothy, and thus causing a squeak. I am puzzled because I did not think the front strut rotated at the top, or even had a bearing at the top Of the strut ( but what do I know).

My problem is, some of the parts the Dealer said were necessary are ex Germany, circa 3 day delivery - so would have liked to preorder them before going to MBS.
 

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