Oil Change

MarkF

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I will be doing my first oil change soon on my ML270.
I have ordered the filter and will be using Mobil 1 oil, the question is as I have no access to ramps or axle stands I am a bit reluctant to stick my head under the car on the jack to remove the cover to get at drain plug.
I have read some where that the oil can be sucked out of the sump via the dipstick tube, has anybody done this and if so whats required and how easy is it.

Just a thought can the under cover be removed without jacking the car, how many bolts hold it on etc.

Thanks for any help.
 

Ellsy Tanners

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Hello, you need a powerfull suction device to suck out the oil, and unfortunatly on your car when you drain the oil, it makes a royal mess if your not carefull as the subframe is in the way and oil goes everywhere!!

A piece of cardboard held in the right place to deflect the oil can help but its not easy not to make a mess!!
 

Ellsy Tanners

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the undershield is easilly removed, remove the centre pice of the retaining clips.
 

rf065

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I will be doing my first oil change soon on my ML270.
I have ordered the filter and will be using Mobil 1 oil, the question is as I have no access to ramps or axle stands I am a bit reluctant to stick my head under the car on the jack to remove the cover to get at drain plug.
I have read some where that the oil can be sucked out of the sump via the dipstick tube, has anybody done this and if so whats required and how easy is it.

Just a thought can the under cover be removed without jacking the car, how many bolts hold it on etc.

Thanks for any help.

Try a google search, last time I looked, you could get a through the dipstick oil change pump for £30 or £40, saves a lot of work under the car, but only if you can access the filter from above.

Russ
 
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MarkF

MarkF

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David Nock

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I will be doing my first oil change soon on my ML270.
I have ordered the filter and will be using Mobil 1 oil, the question is as I have no access to ramps or axle stands I am a bit reluctant to stick my head under the car on the jack to remove the cover to get at drain plug.
I have read some where that the oil can be sucked out of the sump via the dipstick tube, has anybody done this and if so whats required and how easy is it.

Just a thought can the under cover be removed without jacking the car, how many bolts hold it on etc.

Thanks for any help.
You're right to be wary of going under the car on the jack. Sounds like you're going to do this sort of thing on a regular basis? Hydraulic trolley jack and axle stands for Christmas? The JCB two and a half ton trolley's a belter for about £35/£40
 

JEZ.S320L

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You're right to be wary of going under the car on the jack. Sounds like you're going to do this sort of thing on a regular basis? Hydraulic trolley jack and axle stands for Christmas? The JCB two and a half ton trolley's a belter for about £35/£40

Safest of all - most national tyre companies offer an oil/filter change VERY cheaply.
 

David Nock

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Safest of all - most national tyre companies offer an oil/filter change VERY cheaply.
Yes but it's all about control. - Of the time to do the job - of the oil used - of the exact amount put in. Most of the National Tyre Companies won't let you view the work in progress nowadays.
 

JEZ.S320L

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Yes but it's all about control. - Of the time to do the job - of the oil used - of the exact amount put in. Most of the National Tyre Companies won't let you view the work in progress nowadays.

I disagree totally. TALK to the guys doing the job. Easy!

Still preferable to the possibility of having your brains spread over the drive, in order to save a couple of quid.!
 

David Nock

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Don't misunderstand, if you are faced with working unsafely or getting the job done in a major worshop, use the workshop every time. If on the other hand you're interested, and are concerned about things (like the post on here last week about the difference between MB229.3 or MB229.31 oil), then get kitted up with the proper equipment and enjoy the results of your labour.
 

kid-jensen

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I happen to be lucky, the road outside my drive has a decent camber so if you park the car with on set of wheels on tha kerb and the other on the road, it's perfectly level. This is something I can't get on ny drive.
The other big advantage is: should you make a mess, it's not your problem!
I have axle stands, but it's a rigmarole to get the car level....parking on the kerb takes about 15 seconds, access to the greasy bits is then easy.
Best thing I ever bought to help with the oil changes was one of these plastic oil cans with a draining-board affair in the side. The old oil goes neatly (most times) into the plastic can then it's easy to pour it into the empty "new" can and off to reqycling, if you feel that way inclined. You don't even have to clean it out 'cos the next lot of oil will be dirty anyway....
5 quid (at CPC) well spent.

Also....Oil filters (decent Hengst ones) are available for around 3 quid at Europarts. Compare that with Halfords or the Dealers...
 

rf065

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Thanks for the info, I think that doing it the conventional way from the sump is out due to not wanting to make a mess on the drive etc, so the dipstick it is.
I have had a quick look on Google and found this, any comments please.

http://www2.westfalia.net/shops/car...htm?vbSESSID=0f88a8f120fd0f3fbb1c1ca53d311889

Hope the link works.


AutoExpress magazine reviewed a few of these pumps some months ago, I can't remember which one was awarded the best buy award, try autoexpress web site?

Russ
 

FIBAMAN

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That pump looks good value to me, I made my own from a hand drill driven pump, and some 5mm nylon tubing, works ok but a bit fiddly. I had one similar to the electric one you sourced and it worked fine, unfortunately someone nicked it off my boat and I couldn't find a replacement, but looks like you have done the job for me. Thanks
 

stevesey

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I happen to be lucky, the road outside my drive has a decent camber so if you park the car with on set of wheels on tha kerb and the other on the road, it's perfectly level. This is something I can't get on ny drive.
Similar here - two wheels on kerb, other front one on a ramp made of a spare concrete block and a 3ft peice of 8*3. Do the final level check in the drive later (which is level). Not sure what the neighbours think of me lowering the tone by working on the car in the road - but generally I'm fairly quick.

Haven't had a car where the front bib will clear my ramps for years - oddly the last car that would was a 66 MGB (lowered - due to age of springs!)
 

John Kerr

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Don't misunderstand, if you are faced with working unsafely or getting the job done in a major worshop, use the workshop every time. If on the other hand you're interested, and are concerned about things (like the post on here last week about the difference between MB229.3 or MB229.31 oil), then get kitted up with the proper equipment and enjoy the results of your labour.

A pair of ramps are what you need
 


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