Passenger Door handle KLG problem. CL 500 W216 2009

Submariner1

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Another fault!
All KLG functions work fine,n except The passenger door will not unlock by grabbing it. Neither will it lock by touching it.
It locks and unlocks fine with both the main and spare key.
The new (circa 2 years old) main key (don’t ask think beach, jet ski … its f*cked) has new batteries 3.3V, and the car is clean.

I tried the 2 button press trick, and it switches between a ‘global’ lock - unlock, and just the driver door and the fuel cap. So that works fine. I had hoped it might reset it.

I assume it is a problem with the Sensor in the handle, maybe those 2 wires have failed. Any views?
would STAR be able to see this? And distinguish between a fault in a handle and the receiver/amplifier or whatever it talks to?
If its just the 2 skinny wires can they be replacd by desoldering, and new wire?
If you need a new handle does it come painted? Bet that is expensive like £200

I checked on MBII Scanner no KLG faults or faults on door controllers .

Disappointed with WIS, it says remove the guide block, then pull the handle out and back and disconnect the 2 wires.
OK not too difficult , but fails to say how to remove the guIde block!! WTF thats the most difficult part. 9DBC6869-ABB6-4ADE-8242-1176F8DB70C1.jpeg

Please tell me I don't have to remove the inner door card, door liner and window!

Note I still have the ongoing problem with the rear window not going up fully first time, takes 3 goes (it needs to deactivate the obstruction circuit). And imo a defective replacement battery showing 12.2V.
 

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Another fault!
All KLG functions work fine,n except The passenger door will not unlock by grabbing it. Neither will it lock by touching it.
It locks and unlocks fine with both the main and spare key.
The new (circa 2 years old) main key (don’t ask think beach, jet ski … its f*cked) has new batteries 3.3V, and the car is clean.

I tried the 2 button press trick, and it switches between a ‘global’ lock - unlock, and just the driver door and the fuel cap. So that works fine. I had hoped it might reset it.

I assume it is a problem with the Sensor in the handle, maybe those 2 wires have failed. Any views?
would STAR be able to see this? And distinguish between a fault in a handle and the receiver/amplifier or whatever it talks to?
If its just the 2 skinny wires can they be replacd by desoldering, and new wire?
If you need a new handle does it come painted? Bet that is expensive like £200

I checked on MBII Scanner no KLG faults or faults on door controllers .

Disappointed with WIS, it says remove the guide block, then pull the handle out and back and disconnect the 2 wires.
OK not too difficult , but fails to say how to remove the guIde block!! WTF thats the most difficult part. View attachment 73374

Please tell me I don't have to remove the inner door card, door liner and window!

Note I still have the ongoing problem with the rear window not going up fully first time, takes 3 goes (it needs to deactivate the obstruction circuit). And imo a defective replacement battery showing 12.2V.
If it is anything like the A-Class it's a case of trim tool underneath and it then levers off (The A-Class has the metal emergency keyhole underneath it on the drivers door)
 
OP
Submariner1

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If it is anything like the A-Class it's a case of trim tool underneath and it then levers off (The A-Class has the metal emergency keyhole underneath it on the drivers door)
Levers off ,
Is that a gentle lever off? With all those curves in the door …. One slip and its scratched? And or the rubber gasket is wrecked.
I would really like to see the part to work out where the clips were, and where to apply pressure.
Not disputing your info, and yes my driver door has a key slot in it.
Really wish WIS had definitive instructions on that. Just in case the CL has bolts !
 
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Submariner1

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Just seen a utube vid.
Appears to be a W216 CL 63.
Looks like you have to first take off the chrome inner door end cap, then a rubber lining, to reveal A hole, this gives access for a T20 torx screwdriver to release the screw into the door guide block. Then it levers off easily.
Sadly it doesnt show how to line up the door handle, when you are replacing it. I hope its obvious.
Nor does it state, if the wire socket falls back into the door when you unplug it..
 
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Submariner1

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As my code reader does not show a fault.
and this bit will no doubt be expensive.
And I have this door controller window issue , could the dealers over write of the door controller card, have disabled the KLG part of the door ?
Is it worth getting STAR on this before I do this repair.?
 

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Levers off ,
Is that a gentle lever off? With all those curves in the door …. One slip and its scratched? And or the rubber gasket is wrecked.
I would really like to see the part to work out where the clips were, and where to apply pressure.
Not disputing your info, and yes my driver door has a key slot in it.
Really wish WIS had definitive instructions on that. Just in case the CL has bolts !
I always use plastic trim tools, they don’t cause damage like a screwdriver would…
 

AMGeed

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If you can remove the offending door handle (easy once the torx screw has been loosened off) this outfit will recondition your handle and return within a week. It's cheaper than a new KG door handle. The removal instructions are in the link.

 
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Submariner1

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If you can remove the offending door handle (easy once the torx screw has been loosened off) this outfit will recondition your handle and return within a week. It's cheaper than a new KG door handle. The removal instructions are in the link.

Thanks thats great info.
Can you put back the end cap inside the door and close it? And tape over the external holes to stop rain ingress? after removing the handle. a Bit nervous as to what would happen if you locked it without a handle ( would it flip any levers etc.. ) I ask as the car lives outside.
 

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Thanks thats great info.
Can you put back the end cap inside the door and close it? And tape over the external holes to stop rain ingress? after removing the handle. a Bit nervous as to what would happen if you locked it without a handle ( would it flip any levers etc.. ) I ask as the car lives outside.
You should be able to replace the end cap and close the door and use tape to temporarily cover the hole in the door. Mine didn't have a cap and just needed the rubber trim to be peeled back to expose the holding screw aperture. (Did my W211 E55)
Be aware that you obviously will only be able open the door from the inside using the handle until the outer handle is reattached. You'll need to manually lock that door using the button from the inside before using the fob to lock the others.

You'll need a fairly long T20 torx screwdriver to loosen off the screw that holds the handle in place. Be very careful not to undo it completely or it will fall down to the bottom of the door and be irretrievable. You may need to poke around a little to get to the KG plug that needs to be disconnected before removing the handle completely.
 
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Submariner1

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You should be able to replace the end cap and close the door and use tape to temporarily cover the hole in the door. Mine didn't have a cap and just needed the rubber trim to be peeled back to expose the holding screw aperture. (Did my W211 E55)
Be aware that you obviously will only be able open the door from the inside using the handle until the outer handle is reattached. You'll need to manually lock that door using the button from the inside before using the fob to lock the others.

You'll need a fairly long T20 torx screwdriver to loosen off the screw that holds the handle in place. Be very careful not to undo it completely or it will fall down to the bottom of the door and be irretrievable. You may need to pole around a little to get to the KG plug that needs to be disconnected before removing the handle completely.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I have seen that these wire break. And wondered if you find its broken can you just solder fix, or replace a section of wire?
Or is their something else in the handle that fails?
 

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Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I have seen that these wire break. And wondered if you find its broken can you just solder fix, or replace a section of wire?
Or is their something else in the handle that fails?
Water gets in behind the rubber inside the handle and corrodes the terminals. I've not heard of the wires actually breaking but the problem I would envisage if you tried a DIY fix would be the sealing of the rubber inside the handle.
 

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Reading your first post again does make me wonder if you have a broken wire with neither the lock or unlock working.

I'd still remove the handle and send it off for a repair rather than get a new unpainted one from the dealers.
 
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Submariner1

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Water gets in behind the rubber inside the handle and corrodes the terminals. I've not heard of the wires actually breaking but the problem I would envisage if you tried a DIY fix would be the sealing of the rubber inside the handle.
Thanks, probably not helped by my industrial Karcher, and finished off by blow dry with the Makita leaf blower then LOL
I should say its a high volume but lower pressure one. And yes I keep a good distance.
 
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Submariner1

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Reading your first post again does make me wonder if you have a broken wire with neither the lock or unlock working.

I'd still remove the handle and send it off for a repair rather than get a new unpainted one from the dealers.
As it stopped working straight after the Dealer reloaded the door Sams, to try and cure the never ending rear window closing saga. I think I will let them use Star to see if that disabled anything.
wierd the passenger one went as it gets very little usage compared to the drivers but hey thats life!
 

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If the dealers have been near it, anything is possible.
Good luck with a fix.
 

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