Peculiar running problem

Streethawk

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I have an odd one...
The problem is a little peculiar too:

my w124 200t doesn't exactly run well, but when run for a bit then stood for MORE than about 5 minutes (not less as it may remain fine, but MORE than 5ish)
it starts fine, but then won't accelerate. I can't even get it to pull away from a flat car park. I have to blip the throttle repeatedly, trying to get the thing to climb not dive, until I manage to get it up to 2000 rpm or so, then the engine will catch and accelerate me away - until the lights, then I have to repeat the farce. etc. whenever stationary.

drive it about for a couple of minutes and it seems to clear, but it's eating fuel, leaving me in front of oncoming vehicles and generally driving me mad. anyone got any inspiration for me?
 

jberks

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Twin choke carb by any chance?
I used to get similar issues on an escort. The secondary side of the carb will be coming on stream at higher revs and the idle side may be fine but if the primary side is playing up, you can get such issues.
Quite why standing for 5 mins makes a difference I can't be certain, but with heat and air locks etc it can happen. Then again, with solenoids and sensors in the equasion I could be completely off beam.
I'd get it into a carb specialist for a strip down and tune up.
 

television

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Adding to what Jberks has said, what about the fuel pump and filter.

Re the carb, you have three jets inside that can block, the main jet and choke jet and the little one is the idle jet, Take them out and clean them, taking care not to damage the gaskit in between the two halfs of the body of the carb <<<< could well solve your problem.

Malcolm
 
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Streethawk

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hmm, may all have good points - i think i'll have to get to a carb bloke as my carb skills are poor (to be honest!!)
 

television

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Your faults are fuel related, with electrical faults they are normally instant and terminal other than ignition ECU's on some cars, but not yours.

Do you have any black smoke from the exhaust

Malcolm
 

aaron6155

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hey there if your car is infact a carb model, there is a diaphram under the top cylinder part of the carb, this is made from rubber and can split or puncture over time, its only 3 screws to remove and not alot to damage if you was the remove it for inspection, this is a common fault on the carb and cheap to rectify.
 
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Streethawk

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television said:
Your faults are fuel related, with electrical faults they are normally instant and terminal other than ignition ECU's on some cars, but not yours.

Do you have any black smoke from the exhaust

Malcolm

No black smoke this time I'm glad to say.
 

television

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Streethawk said:
No black smoke this time I'm glad to say.

Time is a little short for a few days, but I have to look up some injection problems for a 123 and I will do yours at the same time, if you had smoke and was using a lot of fuel it would have been the enrichment device.

malcolm
 

kanda

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Streethawk said:
No black smoke this time I'm glad to say.
Check the air filter, if its it clogged then the engine is choked of air and it will have no power, If its dirty replace a new one
 
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Streethawk

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television said:
Time is a little short for a few days, but I have to look up some injection problems for a 123 and I will do yours at the same time, if you had smoke and was using a lot of fuel it would have been the enrichment device.

malcolm

I'd be very grateful, thanks
 
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Streethawk

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kanda said:
Check the air filter, if its it clogged then the engine is choked of air and it will have no power, If its dirty replace a new one

filter was done 5k ago - no problems there...
 

rio678

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the carb could be flooding (smell around that area), i would strip down the carb to check, check fuel lines too.
 
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