Problems jacking car for airbag replacement

[Conor]

Hello,

So this morning I set out to replace the rear suspension air bags.

I ran into a problem. Ideally I wanted to jack up from the centre rear and place the axle stands under both side/rear jack points. No chance, as my jack wouldn't reach far enough to jack up via the differential.

I then then jacked up each side and found another point near the suspension that was solid and put the stand there. Upon repeating on the other side, I noted that instead of the jack rolling inwards to accommodate the rising lift, the car towards me while jacking up (sideways move). I'm not sure if that was because of the physics of lifting both sides independently or if the ground was sloping laterally, I don't think it was.

Anyway, instead of doing something risky I stopped and packed everything up and decided to do a little more research.

Wondering what I should do now.

I guess the solution for centre jacking is a more appropriate jack. But if I want to work on each side independently, where is the best place to put the axle stand?

The car is a pre-facelift s212 E 350.

 

[Conor]

Is there anywhere else in the centre rear that I can jack up from?

 

[RhodieBill]

This is why I prefer the Jacking points and the Jack of the older cars as you can use the cars own Jack, putting it in the slot, and once at the required height putting the Axle Stand underneath the Rubber Bung adjacent to the cars own jacking point.

But to reference to the OP's problem you'll will need an proper industrial 3 or 4 ton Low Profile Trolley Jack, something like this https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3lp-low-profile-garage-trolley-jack - or get yourself a good Bottle Jack of similar spec....

 

[LostKiwi]

Often easiest to do one side at a time. Jack it up, remove wheel and put under car then do whatever you need to. Not as good as axle stands but at least you'll be safe.

 

[Blobcat]

As per above, have to be careful jacking one side then the other as the car can move and fall off the jack or stands.

Jacks don’t always run smoothly on tarmac, I had to redo the sill on the 911 I had as the low profile jack didn’t roll and the car did so creased the outer sill

 

[Conor]

Thanks lads.

I agree, read something about jacking up both sides and not sure why I tried it. I won't be doing that again.

It would appear that the jack I currently have is not any use for my current job.

One such approach could be to get to the stage I got to (pic attached) and then Jack up the diff as I will have clearance, then move the stands to the side sill jack points.

That still feels like a sham approach.

Ideally I want a jack that let's me in at the diff when car is sat on ground.

P. S. Do you guys notice where I had the stands placed. I was about 80% certain these were sta d points but the 20% uncertainty contributed to aborting.

These were identical round points on both sides that were rubberized and attached to a more sturdy looking steel structure. The rubber shape was like the inverse of the jack points on the sills, indicating that and axle stand would seat nicely.

I think my diff lifting issue is Brough about by the large boot. I think a saloon might not be as problematic.

There was also lots of space behind the diff but was all covered in plastic. I would assume none of this is structure anyway so not worth even considering for use.

 

[LostKiwi]

Look like subframe mounts to me. Not a place I'd normally use. Normally I'd use the points near where the jack is - there are 2 points about 8" in which have a large rubber pad on them.
Personally unless I absolutely have to lift both sides together it's far safer doing only one at a time.

 

[Binnedit]

This?

 

[LostKiwi]

This?

Hmmm....
Clever but not sure I'd trust it!
That pin would need to be very strong...

 

[Conor]

Thanks for all this, I eventually just went with a single side at a time.

I wanted to get up both sides to experiment and see if I could replace the bags without having to undo suspension parts, which I ended up needing.

Thanks

 

[Conor]

This is why I prefer the Jacking points and the Jack of the older cars as you can use the cars own Jack, putting it in the slot, and once at the required height putting the Axle Stand underneath the Rubber Bung adjacent to the cars own jacking point.

But to reference to the OP's problem you'll will need an proper industrial 3 or 4 ton Low Profile Trolley Jack, something like this https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3lp-low-profile-garage-trolley-jack - or get yourself a good Bottle Jack of similar spec....

To respond to this, i'm not sure that the jack you listed will work. You see the problem is not about the height of the jack, it's more about not having enough heigh the lever the jack handle.

I think it's more about horizontal reach than vertical. In any case, I have conceded that with my current setup I won't be able to lift the entire rear end with my current setup.

Cheapest solution would be some ramps, provided I don't need to work on suspension related bits.

 

[RhodieBill]

To respond to this, i'm not sure that the jack you listed will work. You see the problem is not about the height of the jack, it's more about not having enough heigh the lever the jack handle.

I think it's more about horizontal reach than vertical. In any case, I have conceded that with my current setup I won't be able to lift the entire rear end with my current setup.

Cheapest solution would be some ramps, provided I don't need to work on suspension related bits.

Hi, I understand your predicament, that is why I quoted the Low Profile Jack as the fulcrum point is only 8" high leaving enough room to operate the lever, maybe no fully to begin with, but the room will increase as the car raises up.

Alternatively drive the car up on some Ramps then use the Jack.....

Another way to do it is to use the cars own Jack to raise the car 4-5 inches, put some Wooden Blocks under the wheels, a side at a time obviously, then you would have room to use the Trolley Jack.

 

[Conor]

Hi, I understand your predicament, that is why I quoted the Low Profile Jack as the fulcrum point is only 8" high leaving enough room to operate the lever, maybe no fully to begin with, but the room will increase as the car raises up.

Alternatively drive the car up on some Ramps then use the Jack.....

Another way to do it is to use the cars own Jack to raise the car 4-5 inches, put some Wooden Blocks under the wheels, a side at a time obviously, then you would have room to use the Trolley Jack.

Ahh ok, I didn't spot the fulcrum aspect, thanks.

I like the ramps approach. While I think it would work, I think the blocks/OEM jack approach to be a little fiddly for me.

Thank you.

 

[Moviestar]

Hi
Would these help:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes...348376?hash=item41fdc3e658:g:aPgAAOSwRZtc64dV

or these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes...634666?hash=item3f910f3d2a:g:VMcAAOSw3Ztcy~LM

 

[Conor]

Hi
Would these help:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes...348376?hash=item41fdc3e658:g:aPgAAOSwRZtc64dV

or these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes...634666?hash=item3f910f3d2a:g:VMcAAOSw3Ztcy~LM

Yup - I have received one of these now. Ace.

Thanks