R107 - 1989 300SL - Analogue clock problem
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Myros
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Tim
it sounds like you may have a dodgy or oxidised connector at the back of the cluster. It works ok with the fuller voltage provided by the electrics when live, but goes a bit off whne on battery solely. You will eventually need to pull the cluster to clean up the contacts and maybe to fix your speedo.
Malcolm is our electronics wizard, and will probably have a spot-on diagnostic for you later.
it sounds like you may have a dodgy or oxidised connector at the back of the cluster. It works ok with the fuller voltage provided by the electrics when live, but goes a bit off whne on battery solely. You will eventually need to pull the cluster to clean up the contacts and maybe to fix your speedo.
Malcolm is our electronics wizard, and will probably have a spot-on diagnostic for you later.
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Ahh ... when I test drove the vehicle before purchase there were a few gremlins with the instruments ... the cluster of gauges on the LHS were all going crazy ... the speedo had a mind of its own ... and the low fuel light was on regardless of tank contents.
The guy who sold it fixed the problem before I took it away ... he said he had traced the problem to a poor earth and had added an extra earth line.
Electrics are my area of lowest knowledge/highest ignorance :roll: so d'you think that the root cause of these faults has just been masked by his fix?
Thanks ... again!
Tim
The guy who sold it fixed the problem before I took it away ... he said he had traced the problem to a poor earth and had added an extra earth line.
Electrics are my area of lowest knowledge/highest ignorance :roll: so d'you think that the root cause of these faults has just been masked by his fix?
Thanks ... again!
Tim
Myros
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He may have hit the nail on the head
but not squarely. It sounds like his fix just wasn't on the mark, so you'll end up doing it again anyway.
Is this the car that was letting in water that you looked at?
but not squarely. It sounds like his fix just wasn't on the mark, so you'll end up doing it again anyway.
Is this the car that was letting in water that you looked at?
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Myros
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sorry Tim
it was someone else looking at a wet 300SL. I am the little brained bear in the photo.
it was someone else looking at a wet 300SL. I am the little brained bear in the photo.
Hibbo
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This sounds pretty similar to when I bought my w123.
First thing to do is to buy a load of new fuses, bin the old ones and clean up the contacts with emery paper and contact cleaner. This may fix a few niggly lecky problems (it fixed my clock, radio and interior light).
I also had bouncy fuel and temp guages (oil pressure is direct reading on the w123). This was caused by knackered and lifted tracts on the PCB in the cluster. Easily sorted by soldering a couple of bypass wires on. This is probably what the last owner did to fix the problem, there could by other tracts on their way out.
The cluster should come out easily, especially if it has already been out recently.
On my w123 I was able to simply push it out from behind (after removing the kick panel). Mercs of this age a great to work on!
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Great ... sounds like a simple -- ish fix?!
For cluster removal, posts have mentioned a removal "tool"? There is zero clearance around the cluster on the 107? So you think it's just as simple as pushing from behind? Remove lower panel, get hands behind cluster ... and push?!
Think I'll get the girlfriend to do that ... she's (obviously!) more dainty than me and I'm recovering from 2 shattered wrists from a racing accident last year, so I don't think I've got the flexibility or the strength?!
Thanks,
Tim
For cluster removal, posts have mentioned a removal "tool"? There is zero clearance around the cluster on the 107? So you think it's just as simple as pushing from behind? Remove lower panel, get hands behind cluster ... and push?!
Think I'll get the girlfriend to do that ... she's (obviously!) more dainty than me and I'm recovering from 2 shattered wrists from a racing accident last year, so I don't think I've got the flexibility or the strength?!
Thanks,
Tim
Myros
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you can't really get at it from underneath
it's wheel off and use either the merc tools ( £10 ish) or some welding rods bent correctly (40p)
The cluster does come apart sensible once you have it out. How's your German. The Sternzeit 107 forum in germany has some fantastic how-to's and blow by blows, but they do tend to write in German.
it's wheel off and use either the merc tools ( £10 ish) or some welding rods bent correctly (40p)
The cluster does come apart sensible once you have it out. How's your German. The Sternzeit 107 forum in germany has some fantastic how-to's and blow by blows, but they do tend to write in German.
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Hmmm ... can't quite see where you'd stick a tool? 
If you get my drift! Job for when I've got a full day to dedicate to it I guess?
D'you have a link to this German forum?
Cheers,
Tim
If you get my drift! Job for when I've got a full day to dedicate to it I guess?D'you have a link to this German forum?
Cheers,
Tim
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Hibbo
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Where to shove your tool
Although there isn't much (ie none) space around the cluster, if you're blessing with a thin tool you can still get it. I used a wire coathanger to do it on my w124 - no space at all but could squeeze it in!
Although there isn't much (ie none) space around the cluster, if you're blessing with a thin tool you can still get it. I used a wire coathanger to do it on my w124 - no space at all but could squeeze it in!
Myros
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you just slot it in a bit, and then twist gently
ooh-err matron. , and then push a bit deeper until you have it in far enough to engage. about 7 or 8 cms then gently pull, alternating sides until you wibble the thing right out.
Carry on DIY-ing is what we should call this film.
ooh-err matron. , and then push a bit deeper until you have it in far enough to engage. about 7 or 8 cms then gently pull, alternating sides until you wibble the thing right out.
Carry on DIY-ing is what we should call this film.
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Right so I'm wibbling and rolling ... 
... I never new MB maintenance could be such fun?!
Interestingly, I had a call yesterday from the MB dealer that just completed the 60k service, a follow-up quality assessment. I mentioned these electrical gremlins and they've asked me to book it back in at no extra charge! I've also got an annoying cold start problem which they didn't fix (see other thread). I think I'll have a play first myself though ... otherwise I can see a bill for a whole new instrument cluster appearing!
Thanks for all the help!
Tim
... I never new MB maintenance could be such fun?!Interestingly, I had a call yesterday from the MB dealer that just completed the 60k service, a follow-up quality assessment. I mentioned these electrical gremlins and they've asked me to book it back in at no extra charge! I've also got an annoying cold start problem which they didn't fix (see other thread). I think I'll have a play first myself though ... otherwise I can see a bill for a whole new instrument cluster appearing!
Thanks for all the help!
Tim
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Hibbo
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Aye man, pull the cluster, open it up and have a look for dodgy tracks and dry joints.
Much easier than it sounds, honest!
Myros
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except the steering wheel has to come off
I don't think you can wibble it out with the wheel on like I did with the 202 and 124. The wheel is too close to the fascia on a 107.
I don't think you can wibble it out with the wheel on like I did with the 202 and 124. The wheel is too close to the fascia on a 107.
