Pegbasher
Active Member
Hi all,
Posted this previously on another forum and wondering if anyone here could make any sense of this headscratcher!!
I have owned my SLK230 for just over a year, purchased as a 'weekend car' to have fun and tinker with which I require some help/advice/suggestions please. will list as much info and details
Apart from a couple of minor niggles and some cosmetic requirement, everything worked as it should until a few weeks ago when the central locking wouldn't unlock the car with the remote. have 1 remote - 2 button with 'foldable' key.
New batteries in remote and checked with phone camera, faint but visible light
Tried unlocking with key in drivers door - went fully clockwise but button not rising enough to unlock, retracts when letting go of key (PSE system i assume)
Tried again couple of days later and managed to open drivers door - could hear relay clicking like an indicator would in the cabin, no alarm and stopped when ignition on.
Lock/unlock button under radio not working, disconnected the battery and left for a while, reconnected and button works - still no remote. Also PSE in boot rapid tick-tock-tick-tock
Checked PSE in boot - appears to be working as whirrs when dash button pressed
Have another PSE and this produces the same behaviour
Few more points I have found....
I have been studying the wiring diagrams and reading many posts on the forums to gain as much info and pointers I can get to aid my non-unlocking central locking woes......
Looking at the wiring diagrams I find that my A37 connector (white connector on PSE) wires are incorrectly installed!! Installing as per the diagram, my interior and boot lights now come on when opening, stay on when the door is closed and go out after a short time!!
Running SDS and Quick Test I see the following screens:
I have checked the fuses under the bonnet and all ok BUT removing the fuses that are labelled central locking, the PSE will still operate????
Applying what little logic and intelligence I have to the above I am wondering/concluding that a previous owner had a similar issue and have re-wired/bypassed something??
I also wonder whether to remove the 'main' plug (big black) to the PSE and feed new wires as per wiring diagrams in an attempt to prove/disprove any meddling
Apologies for the long post and any help, comments and advice will be very graciously received
Posted this previously on another forum and wondering if anyone here could make any sense of this headscratcher!!
I have owned my SLK230 for just over a year, purchased as a 'weekend car' to have fun and tinker with which I require some help/advice/suggestions please. will list as much info and details
Apart from a couple of minor niggles and some cosmetic requirement, everything worked as it should until a few weeks ago when the central locking wouldn't unlock the car with the remote. have 1 remote - 2 button with 'foldable' key.
New batteries in remote and checked with phone camera, faint but visible light
Tried unlocking with key in drivers door - went fully clockwise but button not rising enough to unlock, retracts when letting go of key (PSE system i assume)
Tried again couple of days later and managed to open drivers door - could hear relay clicking like an indicator would in the cabin, no alarm and stopped when ignition on.
Lock/unlock button under radio not working, disconnected the battery and left for a while, reconnected and button works - still no remote. Also PSE in boot rapid tick-tock-tick-tock
Checked PSE in boot - appears to be working as whirrs when dash button pressed
Have another PSE and this produces the same behaviour
Few more points I have found....
- Dash switch and remote both WILL lock the car
- Dash switch and remote both WON'T unlock the car
- Disconnecting the battery and reconnecting allows the dash switch to unlock, upon locking it will NOT unlock
I have been studying the wiring diagrams and reading many posts on the forums to gain as much info and pointers I can get to aid my non-unlocking central locking woes......
Looking at the wiring diagrams I find that my A37 connector (white connector on PSE) wires are incorrectly installed!! Installing as per the diagram, my interior and boot lights now come on when opening, stay on when the door is closed and go out after a short time!!
Running SDS and Quick Test I see the following screens:
I have checked the fuses under the bonnet and all ok BUT removing the fuses that are labelled central locking, the PSE will still operate????
Applying what little logic and intelligence I have to the above I am wondering/concluding that a previous owner had a similar issue and have re-wired/bypassed something??
I also wonder whether to remove the 'main' plug (big black) to the PSE and feed new wires as per wiring diagrams in an attempt to prove/disprove any meddling
Apologies for the long post and any help, comments and advice will be very graciously received
