R230 Fuses

[Monday]

The central locking and boot opening/closing functions have gone on my car (just out of hibernation after 6 months away) (SL350, 2007). The last time this happened (>12 months ago) it was a fuse failed and I want to replace the fuse.

I think I have narrowed it down to fuse 71 but this fuse is contained in the 3rd of 4 boxes, helpfully identified as "Under the Fondbox". I think this means the cubby box behind the drivers seat but I cannot see anything in there,

Can anyone offer a clue as to where to find this?

Last time I was told if the fuse failed again, it was likely a new PSE pump needed. Is that the case? What else might cause this fuse to blow?

 

[television]

It is a yellow fuse, you can see what one as there is a red and black wire coming from this fuse in the box behind the seats, is the foam block around the pump wet, if it is not then if the 20 amp keeps blowing go to a 25 but no higher, some motors can pull near on the 20 amps at start up.

 

[Monday]

Hi television, it's the fusebox itself I cannot find! Does the base come out of the cubby box? I can see some clips the but the bottom all seems one piece?

Pump is all dry, cat has been in garage for 6 months.

 

[television]

Yes the bottom on the box behind the drivers seat lifts up after you press the two catches, you can pull the front off if you wish, the top of the front cover pulls forward and then you lift the cover up and out, just locating pegs in the bottom.

 

[SL63 Mark]

That's the one. I looked in mine once, there are loads of fuses in there.

 

[television]

That's the one. I looked in mine once, there are loads of fuses in there.

You have 1 extra fuse in the 55

 

[Monday]

Thanks for that, at least I am into the fuse box. But the layout does not bear much relation to the fuse chart in the toolkit!

There are no 20amp fuses there so perhaps has been replaced by a 25 amp already. But I have tried substituting all the 25 amp fuses there are with no response, ie the pump still isn't running. I couldn't find a red/black wire either, the wires are tightly sleeved although there might be a red/blue. It looked likely that it was one of two 25amp fuses in the yellow fuseholder?

[BTW is it safe to just check these fuses visually, ie if the fusible U-link is intact then it is OK?]

I will have to try some other fuses tomorrow, there seem to be 3 that look after the locking system but two of them also run other things (which work) so that only seems to leave 71.

Other suggestions gratefully receieved.

 

[drmw]

The one for the PSE is just left of centre when you are looking down on the top of them.. Normally a 20A but often replaced by 25A.

You can't quite be 100% sure with visual checking

 

[David Arnott]

Here, attached is a picture of fuse 71.
Hope this helps

 

[television]

It is easy if you look down from the top. There is a black/red wire coming out immediately behind the right fuse.

 

[David Arnott]

Here is an image from above , as refered to.

 

[television]

Here is an image from above , as refered to.

Thank you David, the red/black wire is very thick, you cannot miss it and the only one that colour.

 

[Monday]

Useful Pictures

Those are very useful pictures, thank you. Actually seen from the side seems to bear more relationship to the fuse diagram!

The 20amp is certainly now a 25amp and am fairly certain I pulled it but may only have checked visually so will try a replacement fuse in there tomorrow, now I know where I am going.

If by any chance it is not that, any views on the next step? or do I need STAR?

I notice also that the car is telling me the boot is not shut everytime I move off from rest (presumably because the boot "grab and close" is not functioning) and also the roof will not open as the car thinks the boot separator is not closed (but it is as I can get in the boot via the key)

 

[television]

The boot needs the PSE pump to be working otherwise it is not closed, when the vacuum PSE pump is working it pulls the boot lid down all the way.


You do not need STAR if the fuse blows again and its a 25 amp one, it will need a new pump and not cheap at £825,,, its plug and play and no STAR needed unless you have comfort seats or the pneumatic back rest.

 

[Monday]

Hmmm, I need to work on that fuse then!

Thanks to all for the help, I'll let you know what's happening.

 

[Monday]

All fixed....at least for now.

Went back out and had a look at the fusebox again this morning and find a blue 15amp fuse sitting in the slot so well illustrated by David Arnott. Rechecked the picture but then pulled it and found it well and truly blown. Replaced it with a 20 amp fuse for now and immediately rewarded with the whirr of the pump. So all working properly again.

Now this is the interesting bit. I had the same issue around a year or so ago and it went to a main dealer to be fixed. They replaced the fuse with the warning that if it went again it would need a new pump. Since it seems to be common to replace the "standard" 20 amp fuse with a 25 amp it is perhaps surprising that a 15 amp has lasted as long as it has. Was it intended to blow? Should I be suspicious? I wonder.....

 

[television]

I have tested the current from these motors and many pull near on 19 amps at the start up, I am amazed that it has run at all on a 15 amp, perhaps a dodge by the dealer knowing that the 15 amp would blow again and they could take some cash from you.

 

[Monday]

Hard to know isn't it? The 15amp has lasted from January 2013, although the last 6 months have been garaged, just opening the boot to check the trickle charger occasionally.

Anyway, if it was a dastardly plot, it has been foiled! Thanks to all.