rear hub and bearing

tavernole

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On a S320Cdi 2007, can anyone suggest a way to remove the hub from the rear bearing once the drive shaft has been removed, I do mot have many tools to pull the hub of, any ideas would be very welcome.
 

brandwooddixon

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Most workshops use pullers or a press to remove and replace bearings.
If you're lacking tools then it is still possible to remove and replace them.
The main thing is to ensure that the replacement bearing is fitted square to the hub.

Generally I've followed the following process.
Points to note are that bearing races are very hard and thus brittle, making them easy to chip.
Typically there isn't much of a lip to use a bearing puller these days but once the hub has been removed you should be able to access the back of the bearing race (there'll be one on each side of the hub).

Depending on the type of bearing you may need to remove a circlip that will hold it in place.

If you have a socket large enough you can use that as a "punch" to knock the bearing out otherwise you can use a broad, flat faced punch and a hammer to gently knock the race out. I've found that by keeping the punch touching the back of the bearing race and moving it around the back face whilst gently tapping it with a hammer usually causes the race to move out slowly from the hub. Don't hit it too hard, lots of gentle taps are better than larger ones as it prevents the race from skewing at an angle and becoming stuck or being damaged. I've found that using a heavy hammer allowing it to fall under its own weight is better than using a light hammer and trying to judge how much force to use.

Before fitting the new race, give the hub a good clean and ensure that the surface to which it fits is square. Fitting the new race is a reverse of the removal, but I use the old race, turned over, as a "punch" or place a flat piece of wood across it and hit that gently to ease the bearing race into the hub first.

You may find that cooling the bearing in the freezer (oil it with a light oil and seal it into a bag first) and maybe heating the hub (say to 80C in the oven) may make it easier.
 

rayhennig

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Over the years I've heard of people removing the assembly and then getting a garage to separate and re-install the new bearing.

I recall on our 123 estate that the local garage couldn't separate the bearing and took it to a local agricultural place. They separated it.

RayH
 

Frontstep

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I have pushed a bearing out with a bottle jack inside a welded up "bed iron frame" but giving an equipped mechanic a few bob to do it seems easier.
 
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tavernole

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Most workshops use pullers or a press to remove and replace bearings.
If you're lacking tools then it is still possible to remove and replace them.
The main thing is to ensure that the replacement bearing is fitted square to the hub.

Generally I've followed the following process.
Points to note are that bearing races are very hard and thus brittle, making them easy to chip.
Typically there isn't much of a lip to use a bearing puller these days but once the hub has been removed you should be able to access the back of the bearing race (there'll be one on each side of the hub).

Depending on the type of bearing you may need to remove a circlip that will hold it in place.

If you have a socket large enough you can use that as a "punch" to knock the bearing out otherwise you can use a broad, flat faced punch and a hammer to gently knock the race out. I've found that by keeping the punch touching the back of the bearing race and moving it around the back face whilst gently tapping it with a hammer usually causes the race to move out slowly from the hub. Don't hit it too hard, lots of gentle taps are better than larger ones as it prevents the race from skewing at an angle and becoming stuck or being damaged. I've found that using a heavy hammer allowing it to fall under its own weight is better than using a light hammer and trying to judge how much force to use.

Before fitting the new race, give the hub a good clean and ensure that the surface to which it fits is square. Fitting the new race is a reverse of the removal, but I use the old race, turned over, as a "punch" or place a flat piece of wood across it and hit that gently to ease the bearing race into the hub first.

You may find that cooling the bearing in the freezer (oil it with a light oil and seal it into a bag first) and maybe heating the hub (say to 80C in the oven) may make it easier.
Hi Brandwooddixon, I have bought a bearing from mercedes which came equipped in its own housing, all I need to do is get the old bearing off, and separate the hub from the old bearing and place the hub into the new one, sounds straight forward, but is it said than done.??/
 

brandwooddixon

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Parallel bearings, they look like two thick walled tubes one inside the other with a seal between them, are still possible.
Cool the new bearing overnight in the freezer, as mentioned, to shrink it, and heat the hub to expand it.
As there is a greater surface area to the bearing you may want to place a little grease inside the hub lip where the bearing sits to help it in and the tricky part is placing the bearing in straight to start with.
A heavy hammer, used gently is better than a lighter one with more force. Rest the hub on on a sturdy work bench or wooden blocks.
Ensure that any pressure applied is to the outer section of the bearing and you'll be fine.
As noted by @rayhennig you could always find a garage that would swap the bearings for you if you take them the hub.
 

Frontstep

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Many other people have presses it doesn't need to be a car mechanic just anyone who has to fit and remove bearings will do ,
fork lift truck engineers, agricultural engineers, gearbox repairers etc etc.

Even your local bus garage.
 
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tavernole

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Many other people have presses it doesn't need to be a car mechanic just anyone who has to fit and remove bearings will do ,
fork lift truck engineers, agricultural engineers, gearbox repairers etc etc.

Even your local bus garage.
thanks for all your suggestions, in the end I had to leave it to garage to repair it, I did try, but I got as for as trying to remove the brake calliper, which would not budge, a mechanic must have found it easier to use a hammer gun to do up the bolts , plus the workshop that did the repair said it was a pig of a job to do.
 
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