Release 639 Drive Shafts From Diff'

M80

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I have the Vito diff free from the prop and body, and wanting to remove from the half shafts to check the uj's for wear.
The 40mm nut at the wheel will release the spline, and so the shaft from the wheel.
But releasing at the diff isn't so clear, to me at least.

Help much appreciated.
 

LostKiwi

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If it's the same as most other cars it will be held in with a wire c clip. A large screwdriver either side and a quick push removes them (similar to driveshafts into CV joints).
 
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Thanks,
as you say a little leverage to pop the C clip
 

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Generally with mercedes if the inner cv goes straight into the diff they are wire circlip, and as stated a sharp tweak with a lever or two will have them out. Beware of the type that have six bolts holding the inner cv to a diff output flange though. The shaft is easy to unbolt, but if you want to remove the output flange, to replace a leaking oil seal for example, they are held in with a horseshoe type clip that can only be removed from the inside once the diff rear cover is unbolted. On many Mercedes the diff needs to be out the car to do this.
 
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Thanks to all.
It didn't take too much to release the C clip, but it's easy to bend the extreme metal flange. It'll reform easily enough.

Now I'm trying to decide if the inner cv on the o/s shaft is the cause of my vibes.
At the extreme of its travel it is very clicky when rotated. But I've already removed much of the grease within the boot and I'm not sure the cv would ever be in a state of rotating on its extreme of travel anyway.
N/s is gently clicky on extreme travel but that's still full of grease.

For 90 quids I may buy a half shaft anyway, if nowt else to eliminate.
 
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Fresh oil, new springs as I found one had become two, a deep 40mm socket and a half shaft ordered.

Half shaft arrived with the flanges beaten up in transit, a nuisance but i'm still deciding if to reform or return.

But today's issue.
The hammered in bits of the hub / half shaft retaining nut ground off,
I'm now with 40mm socket, socket bar and 1.3m of scaff pole. Surprisingly the parking brake holds but so does the nut.
A bending bar but no shifting of the nut.

If the nut was exposed I would grind off a flat till it fractured with pressure, but I can't get a grinder into this,

ideas welcome.
 
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Yep,



Sorry couldn't resist.
 

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the wheel one
 

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and
 

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LostKiwi

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Hmmm...
If you have a Dremel try grinding from a flat down towards the centre. Then repeat from the opposite side.

Use a cylindrical "stone on a stick".
Will probably take a while and eat grindstones.
 
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I am thinking to drill in, at perhaps 4mm, and can increase till v close to the thread.

As your suggestion my usual way is to destroy one side of the nut.

I'm not expecting it to be of benefit as there isn't any rust to bind but I've sprayed with plus gas, so might as well leave it a while.
 

LostKiwi

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I am thinking to drill in, at perhaps 4mm, and can increase till v close to the thread.

As your suggestion my usual way is to destroy one side of the nut.
Yep that should work too.
You might even be able to get a Dremel with a cut off disk in there.
 
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It only struck me as I was sliding out the old half shaft that it isn't of importance if I damage the thread. The new shaft has one all of its own.

One broken 4mm drill while drilling the 2nd hole.
A 3.5mm drill to work the holes to nut destruction.
A short session with a lump hammer and chisel to show it who's boss, and success.
 
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