Replacement of rear brakes

futsysmids

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Is there anything I should know when replacing the rear discs and pads when I do them on saturday?

I have an auto p 1997 c180 - fsh - where the rear pads were replaced in jan 2007.

The pads that were changed - the compound is so hard that they squeal like f***. I have had them regreased twice and they still squeal - so i have taken the step to replace the rear discs and pads myself.

I have bought some copperslip - and then a mate who is an ex mech - is going to replace them.

any help would be appreciated. thanx in advance.:)
 

television

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Very simple to do, would not it have been easier to try the pads first.


An article I saw last week by MB said the the grease should be put onto the piston face and pad channels and not onto the pad, thats a new one on me
 
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futsysmids

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pads & Discs

it would have been easier to just replace the pads - but the new pads on the old discs seem to eaten away into the disc.

I have ordered 2 new discs and 4 x pads from a company called:

www.speedways.co.uk

where the 2 x discs and 4 x pads cost just £60 - so it was worth the extra expense to have a complete new setup.

plus the fact delivery is free when you order 2 or more items.:D
 

television

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it would have been easier to just replace the pads - but the new pads on the old discs seem to eaten away into the disc.

I have ordered 2 new discs and 4 x pads from a company called:

www.speedways.co.uk

where the 2 x discs and 4 x pads cost just £60 - so it was worth the extra expense to have a complete new setup.

plus the fact delivery is free when you order 2 or more items.:D

OK and good luck with it
 

Bolide

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In my opinion that's £60 wasted. Aftermarket pads & discs never feel as good as MB parts and the price difference is minimal

If there's one thing I wouldn't buy on price it's brake parts. OK, make that two things: brake parts and tyres

If you doubt me, just buy a set of Mercedes pads and swop the aftermarket ones for the real thing and drive round the block. The difference is amazing

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
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futsysmids

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brake pads

These are not aftermarket pads - these are merc pads - just purchased at trade prices.

:wink:
 

BlackC55

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Bolide is correct. The squeaking caused by your old pads will occur again with your new ones.

To remedy the squeek it is very simple. The greasing does help but only for a while. Cancel yor order and get some MB discs and pads or Euro Car parts equivelent.

When removing the discs the parking brake shoes will need to be slackened. With a torch look through one of the wheel bolt holes and the adjuster will be obvious to see. Just use a screw driver to turn it and slacken. Make sure it is adjusted properly when all fitted up. Some people know this point some don't so I thought it would be worth saying.
 

Dosco

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Brake pads & disc's

Just replaced my Front Disc's and pads with MB parts purchased at a discounted price from my local MB dealer.

In the box the pads had the MB logo on them AND the word PAGID, the ones removed - fitted by MB Indie way back when also had the MB logo and the letters ATE stamped on the metal plate.
:confused: or what :cool:
 

wireman

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Do replace the hand brake shoes and springs while you have it in bits.
Also when you push the pistons back open the bleed nipple so that the old fluid which has been heated and cooled countless times can be discarded and not pushed into the other parts of the braking system.

Its a simple enough job but the pair of 10mm bolts that hold the caliper on are a shade tight to undo (and a bit awkward to access), use the best fitting tools you can to undo them or risk slipping off and hurting yourself. New bolts shold be fitted on reassembly, but at a push you could loctite the old ones if they are in good enough nick.

I can't comment on the difference between MB and pirate parts Ive only used kit from Euro parts, I have found these to be entirely satisfactory on my W201 and W124.

Old tricks for reducing squeal on disk brakes:-
Bang the brakes on hard at high speed and keep them on hard till it stops, do this a few times it may help.
Deglaze the disk and pads, use fine sand paper (not wet/dry or emery) and get the shine off the disk and pad runing surfaces.
Cut a 2-5mm wide slot across (radialy) the pads centre, supposed to give the friction materials ablated from the surfaces during use somewhere to go other than between them. Reducing the area of contact will not change the braking effect.
Chamfer the leading edge of the pads, also supposed to make an escape route for dust (how it will escape I don't know).
Introduce a thin steel shim between the pad and piston. this would add some compliance in line with the applied pressure. Most early disk brake systems had to have these or they would squeal for nothing.
Make certain that all high pressure contact surfaces (pad back/piston & pad edge/caliper) are rust free, clean and flat.
 
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futsysmids

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brakes & pads

Following on from previous posts:

Had a mate who is a car mechanic.

He came over to mine. jacked the car up and fitted the new discs and pads properly within a hour. dead easy job.

Took it for a spin after having pumped the brakes a bit - NO SQUEAL at all. Brilliant job. Stops on a ninepence.

I checked out whether they were proper merc parts - the discs and the pads were. Although the previous pads that were taken out were some unipart ones of crap design - that (a) caused the squeal and (b) destroyed the rear discs.

Thanx for everyones input. :p
 

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