Running a classic

s5tuart

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2003 R230 SL350
I've got an itch for an older Merc.
80's or even 70's if the price isn't too crazy (for me)
There seem to be some nice looking W124 around at around £5,000
What are the downsides of ownership?

Also seen a nice looking SL350 from 1976 on eBay......hmmmmmm!
 
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JBell

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C350 CDi Estate (GAD Edition)

LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
The biggest hassles with running a classic are:
1. Parts availability.
2. Parts pricing for anything hard to get is through the roof.
Hard to get parts are often the ones that fail regularly.

Fuel economy is nothing like a modern car, rust is an ever present threat and they need continuous attention if you use them regularly.

Nice thing about them is many things can be fixed roadside without the need for a computer.

Having said all that my 129 (a bit newer than you're looking) has been relatively trouble free. Just central locking pump, a gearbox oil leak (needs to come out) and a current roof not opening issue are the only real issues I've had in 7 or 8 years. Having said that it's also done less than 3000 miles per year and covered less than 500 last year.
 
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s5tuart

s5tuart

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The biggest hassles with running a classic are:
1. Parts availability.
2. Parts pricing for anything hard to get is through the roof.
Hard to get parts are often the ones that fail regularly.

Fuel economy is nothing like a modern car, rust is an ever present threat and they need continuous attention if you use them regularly.

Nice thing about them is many things can be fixed roadside without the need for a computer.

Having said all that my 129 (a bit newer than you're looking) has been relatively trouble free. Just central locking pump, a gearbox oil leak (needs to come out) and a current roof not opening issue are the only real issues I've had in 7 or 8 years. Having said that it's also done less than 3000 miles per year and covered less than 500 last year.
Thanks. My MY2000 R129 was almost completely trouble free during my ownership apart from a few niggles like the central locking pump, boot brake light and a couple more things I can't remember so couldn't have been that big a deal.
My main "concern" is buying something that old and my tendency to rush into a deal without having the knowledge to rely on.
Indies are reluctant to do an inspection, understandable if they have met with aggressive sellers in the past so I'd be mostly buying blind and one of my weaknesses is buying with my heart, not my head!
I do like that SL350 though :cool:
 

DSK

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CLS 320 CDI, S350 Bluetec
Nothing really. It’s actually the wisest option! Parts are usually the issue but the older MBs have a strong following.

You get an appreciating asset or at least one that doesn’t devalue unlike more modern tat. The mechanicals are very good and not like the modern rubbish. They are maintainable with basic common sense, basic tools, mechanics will love them!
 

peterws1957

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sl350 /2004/3.7 and CL65/2009/6.0
Looks ok and the price seems realistic. I'm always a bit wary of adverts that say "needs checking over" or some such, often implying it needs a shed load of work to be put back on the road.
 

ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
You can be reasonably sure most of the fixes have been worked out and documented. Economic work arounds and often do it yrself tutorials are often readily avail. And Yr older car may well have finished depreciating.
One will be delighted to be avoiding the stealer.
ANYTHING not electronic will be a real bonus except electronic ignition, which has so far proved to be a reliable upgrade.(get that designer to come back and sort out adblu)
Often the older car is much better quality and better built

Take time to find one without the tin worm, where pts are avail. and Yr prob good for many yrs.
 

Snake Charmer

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Buy the best you can afford, hopefully where someone else has spent money so you will not need to. Using classics regularly makes a big difference to reliability.
 

LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
Thanks. My MY2000 R129 was almost completely trouble free during my ownership apart from a few niggles like the central locking pump, boot brake light and a couple more things I can't remember so couldn't have been that big a deal.
My main "concern" is buying something that old and my tendency to rush into a deal without having the knowledge to rely on.
Indies are reluctant to do an inspection, understandable if they have met with aggressive sellers in the past so I'd be mostly buying blind and one of my weaknesses is buying with my heart, not my head!
I do like that SL350 though :cool:
One major thing to look for on 107s is rusted scuttle.
 

00slk

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2002 SL55 AMG, 2005 E320 CDi, 2014 SLK250 CDi, 2003 SLK200
I have had many classic's and still run 3, never had an issue with parts........Except for Mercedes. Not available is the biggest problem now, but 30 years ago everything was available for Mercedes Benz. I have restored w111, w107, 108, 116's x3, 114 and a pair 115's. Parts were readily available from Mercedes.
Today a 10year old SL400 glass roof is no longer available (friend isn't best pleased as can't get his car repaired) There are some parts for my SL55 and Money Pit that are no longer available either. However the tunnel is not all doom and gloom, as their are companies that specialise in second hand parts......Excellent.
If you want a no thrills classic Mercedes, go for the W115, preferably a 250, easy to work on, very basic and some parts are interchangeable. Rust is there killer!!
The W108 seem to be silly money now.
The 107 I have a soft spot, but cheap ones are cheap for a reason!! Best is to look for post 1987 models.
W116, I have had 3 or 4, 6 and 8 cylinder models, they are worth looking into as the rust issues are fairly visible, but not minimal.
123 models, the coupe is my choice, 280ce can't beat it.......my boss had brand new w123's and they were so impressive, but rust and parts for the coupe £££
Best thing about running classic's though are the free tax and insurance, kind of out ways the fuel costs of a car 18 to 25 mpg. I came third in an economy run in my 1978 w116 450se 25.89 mpg only beaten by to 4 cylinders and one of those was a diesel. My 1973 450sel, not so good nor was my 1970 280se (with 4 speed manual) at 18mpg
However you have pulled the joker out of your list and that is the r230 SL350 you naughty man!!! These are now over 20years old and can be put on a classic car insurance policy, but check with prospective insurer as most only offer 3000 mile a year which is not much if you go for a r230!

Good luck Stuart, you need it with classic's ;)
 

bladecrazy

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tesla model 3 performance /honda cd175/w123 300d gertrude.
I have no problems getting most parts for my 79 w123, if you like doing things yourself as i do then an older car is just the job, i actually enjoy working on mine and have many plans for future work, rust can be an issue as has been said but most things can be repaired .
 

Blobcat

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R171 SLK280, Smart R451, Land Rover 110 County SW, 997 C2S, R1250 GSA TE 40th, CBR600FP
A 124 is a great car but they do rust :(
That and water leaks
 

LostKiwi

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A w201 2.6 would be an interesting option if you can find a good one at sensible money.
 
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s5tuart

s5tuart

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I have had many classic's and still run 3, never had an issue with parts........Except for Mercedes. Not available is the biggest problem now, but 30 years ago everything was available for Mercedes Benz. I have restored w111, w107, 108, 116's x3, 114 and a pair 115's. Parts were readily available from Mercedes.
Today a 10year old SL400 glass roof is no longer available (friend isn't best pleased as can't get his car repaired) There are some parts for my SL55 and Money Pit that are no longer available either. However the tunnel is not all doom and gloom, as their are companies that specialise in second hand parts......Excellent.
If you want a no thrills classic Mercedes, go for the W115, preferably a 250, easy to work on, very basic and some parts are interchangeable. Rust is there killer!!
The W108 seem to be silly money now.
The 107 I have a soft spot, but cheap ones are cheap for a reason!! Best is to look for post 1987 models.
W116, I have had 3 or 4, 6 and 8 cylinder models, they are worth looking into as the rust issues are fairly visible, but not minimal.
123 models, the coupe is my choice, 280ce can't beat it.......my boss had brand new w123's and they were so impressive, but rust and parts for the coupe £££
Best thing about running classic's though are the free tax and insurance, kind of out ways the fuel costs of a car 18 to 25 mpg. I came third in an economy run in my 1978 w116 450se 25.89 mpg only beaten by to 4 cylinders and one of those was a diesel. My 1973 450sel, not so good nor was my 1970 280se (with 4 speed manual) at 18mpg
However you have pulled the joker out of your list and that is the r230 SL350 you naughty man!!! These are now over 20years old and can be put on a classic car insurance policy, but check with prospective insurer as most only offer 3000 mile a year which is not much if you go for a r230!

Good luck Stuart, you need it with classic's ;)
Thanks for the comprehensive reply!
Unfortunately I have no garage and no place to carry out any work myself, even if I wanted to!
It seems from most people that rust is the main problem.
The car would be a daily driver too and although I'm not worried too much about fuel consumption I would worry about rust repair bills.
I guess my best bet is to look for a restored car but that's likely to put the price out of my range.
Our own classifieds seem fairly inactive so that means I'm limited to trusting any sellers word as to condition.
I've been very lucky with my MBs so far but as I get older I get more cautious, and the less electronics the better so I wanted to explore the possibilities.
 

Blobcat

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R171 SLK280, Smart R451, Land Rover 110 County SW, 997 C2S, R1250 GSA TE 40th, CBR600FP
Thanks for the comprehensive reply!
Unfortunately I have no garage and no place to carry out any work myself, even if I wanted to!
It seems from most people that rust is the main problem.
The car would be a daily driver too and although I'm not worried too much about fuel consumption I would worry about rust repair bills.
I guess my best bet is to look for a restored car but that's likely to put the price out of my range.
Our own classifieds seem fairly inactive so that means I'm limited to trusting any sellers word as to condition.
I've been very lucky with my MBs so far but as I get older I get more cautious, and the less electronics the better so I wanted to explore the possibilities.
Using it as a daily is the best thing you could do with it - get one without rust and without a sunroof and you'll have some cheap and interesting motoring.
 
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s5tuart

s5tuart

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ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
Present, sort of classic. By definition anyway Ngtf with 8000 miles from New and very satisfying to potter about in
IMG_20230127_134520.jpg
 

bladecrazy

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tesla model 3 performance /honda cd175/w123 300d gertrude.
lots of classics for sale with new resprays etc covering up allsorts of nasties, my advice get something that needs a little work andalways check mot history, there was a mint w123 for sale on ebay for 10k and it did look untouched and original until i checked the mot history, it was shocking.
 


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