rust protection

jim mulhall

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I want to pre-empt any rust on my 300sl and 230ce but don't want to spend a fortune having someone else injecting/spraying wax protection into the cars' nether regions. Does anyone know where I can find out how to do it myself and precisely where I should inject ? Thanks.
 

television

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jim mulhall said:
I want to pre-empt any rust on my 300sl and 230ce but don't want to spend a fortune having someone else injecting/spraying wax protection into the cars' nether regions. Does anyone know where I can find out how to do it myself and precisely where I should inject ? Thanks.

I still swear by Waxoil,just cover up the brakes and you can spray it where you like. I always remove door panels and get right into the corners. The whole underside can be done, it does not matter if it gets on the exhaust,as it burns off in seconds.
The hand pump spray supplied is ok, but I still prefer an old spray gun and compressor. by warming the waxoil up to +20c makes it much easier.

Malcolm
 

tom7035

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Agree thoroughly with the 'Waxoyl' treatment. Spray into any chassis box section drainage holes and into the jacking points, remove the wheelarch liners and get under there, also clear out accumulated mud from the rolled-over wing edges and use a brush to apply liberally. Take off the engine splashguard and get at the front crossmember too. Everywhere as TV says, but try to avoid spraying rubber components wherever possible. Can be a messy job (at least it is when I do it!) but well worthwhile.
 

190e-nut

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waxoil is awesome works great.. whatever happened to the old ziebart treatment that everything used to have :confused:
 

television

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tom7035 said:
Agree thoroughly with the 'Waxoyl' treatment. Spray into any chassis box section drainage holes and into the jacking points, remove the wheelarch liners and get under there, also clear out accumulated mud from the rolled-over wing edges and use a brush to apply liberally. Take off the engine splashguard and get at the front crossmember too. Everywhere as TV says, but try to avoid spraying rubber components wherever possible. Can be a messy job (at least it is when I do it!) but well worthwhile.

Messy job Tom, nice feeling though when its done, I forgot the messy bit, its a so and so to wash off, but I do love the smell in the car, last for ages.

malcolm
 

television

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190e-nut said:
waxoil is awesome works great.. whatever happened to the old ziebart treatment that everything used to have :confused:

Yes forgot that one, they have one in Sweden called Dynatrol, very runny ( like the monty Python cheese shop) but now wax oil has taken over.

Malcolm
 

Parrot of Doom

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I used POR15 on my TVR, that stuff is hard as nails and doesn't chip. Can paint right over rust as well.

Google for POR15 Frost restorers.
 

Silver Arrow

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I used to do it myself, but now get it done professionally.

The main thing is to get it clean and DRY first.

(The old Range Rover gets old, sludgy engine oil. Works a treat, but leave it in a field, (or someone elses drive who you don't like to let it drip for a couple of weeks!))
 

Mercky

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rust

Dinitrol is the stuff to use, Google it and see for yourself, they have a spec for every car outlining every area to treat, places to drill access holes etc. I have used it on an old alfa spider and it really works......they use it on aircraft!!
 


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