Rust - that crinkly old chestnut

[alexspurs61]

This is just a remix of an old tune, but I think I've had it guys - end of tether with the rust and and all that.

I've 600 notes set aside for new front wings (fitted, blown in, etc) but I'm not going to bother. After a year behind a three pointed star, I think I need to come back when I can afford a younger and less porous model of MB. Or mad amounts on an older 124, that pinnacle of MB excellence, etc, etc.

The rear wings have started now, and peeling back the door rubbers (rear doors - I only checked the front ones when I bought - Arggh, Muppet!) revealed plenty of foul orange peely crap.

Even with its weedy engine, I've loved driving it - makes the forthcoming, inevitably loss-incurring sale even more of a pity. I nearly bought a 2-years- younger 2.5 20V V70 instead at the same money, and that's what I'm going to look for now. Bet it won't make me grin as much, but Hey.....

 

[television]

If you get the V70R you can kick down and make the tyres smoke at 40 mph, very nice interior compaired to the basic, you are only young once.

malcolm

 

[alexspurs61]

If you get the V70R you can kick down and make the tyres smoke at 40 mph, very nice interior compaired to the basic, you are only young once.

malcolm

Hi Malcolm - reckon I'll only be spending 3K, so I doubt it'll be a V70R! But a nice little 'normal' five-pot 2.5 should do the trick. Shame to be reaching this point but hey-ho.

V70s - no rust I trust? Within reason, of course....

 

[television]

Hi Malcolm - reckon I'll only be spending 3K, so I doubt it'll be a V70R! But a nice little 'normal' five-pot 2.5 should do the trick. Shame to be reaching this point but hey-ho.

V70s - no rust I trust? Within reason, of course....

Rust on V70 no problems with all of the front or doors sills, wheel arches or anything that shows. underneath from the rear axle back do check all of the component and pipes on the rear axle and around the fuel tank and rear apron. nothing else rust. Do Waxoil the rear end on the above mentioned points and it will last for ever.

malcolm

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Hi Malcolm - reckon I'll only be spending 3K, so I doubt it'll be a V70R! But a nice little 'normal' five-pot 2.5 should do the trick. Shame to be reaching this point but hey-ho.

V70s - no rust I trust? Within reason, of course....

Funny for me it was a toss up between a V70 and the e-class for me.

Did look at a nice XC, but the guy wanted too much for it.

Eventually bought the E. Just got it back today from the bodyshop, am now £600 lighter but what a job.

Probably should sell the car right now as it will never look better, but if it keeps the rot away for another 3 years then i will be happy enough. Will be time to look at a newr galvanised one by then.

I picked the car up pretty cheaply because fot he rust, the bodyshop owner has a nice CLK55 and was shocked when i told him what i paid for mine, lols. Anyway for me it made sence to get a car which needed some attention with the body at a good price, that way i knew the engine would be sold and after i sent the money on the body it would be good for a while.

The V70 is a very nice car, has a slightly older feel to the e-class to me, especially from the outside. The MB diesel engine is far superior to anything Volvo produce. The basic 2.5 volvo does drink the juice.

 

[television]

The basic 2.5 volvo does drink the juice.

Ok my V70R 2.3 liter is only 29 hp lower in output than my SL500 5 liter V8
and both have roughly the same fuel consumption, at 70mph the Volvo is doing 1k more RPM than the SL. At 80mph the volvo fuel consumption drops as the turbo comes in and at 90 it will drop to 22mpg on the motorway, where as the SL is doing 30 mpg.

Most test show that the best Volvo engine is the 2.4 as an all round car, its back to the engine -wieght ratio again.

Malcolm

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Some people will recoil in horror at this suggestion.

You can't see the paint behind the door seals. Ever. Unless you peel those seals back.

So why not remove the rust, and paint it with a good rust preventative paint, like POR15? Just leave enough of the original paint near the edge of the seal, and Bob's your uncle.

Thats what I'll be doing come summer. I see no reason why anyone should be spraying parts that never get seen.

 

[alexspurs61]

Some people will recoil in horror at this suggestion.

You can't see the paint behind the door seals. Ever. Unless you peel those seals back.

So why not remove the rust, and paint it with a good rust preventative paint, like POR15? Just leave enough of the original paint near the edge of the seal, and Bob's your uncle.

Thats what I'll be doing come summer. I see no reason why anyone should be spraying parts that never get seen.

I guess you're right there, and thanks for the tip on what to use - it was just a bit of a kick in the teeth after lining up the ££ for front wings to be replaced. Not so much the door rust as it's eminently manageable like you say, it's just the rear wings starting to go as well. These are possibly rectifiable without replacement.

The car's had a little spent on it (x-member, rear brake pipes) so I'll have to keep her really.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Ok my V70R 2.3 liter is only 29 hp lower in output than my SL500 5 liter V8
and both have roughly the same fuel consumption, at 70mph the Volvo is doing 1k more RPM than the SL. At 80mph the volvo fuel consumption drops as the turbo comes in and at 90 it will drop to 22mpg on the motorway, where as the SL is doing 30 mpg.

Most test show that the best Volvo engine is the 2.4 as an all round car, its back to the engine -wieght ratio again.

Malcolm

Can’t really see what mpg at 70, 80 or 90 mph has to do with anything. Considering most people will struggle to average 30mph over the life of their car, probably a bit less.

So its average consumption that counts, I doubt the Volvo will better 25mpg, probably closer to 20 if there is a bit more town work. Not everyone sits on a m-way in Germany for 500 miles a day at 90mph!