S124 Rear shock absorbers replacement

[Seweryn]

Hello,

It is my first post on the forum, so I would like to say Hello to All.

I have a small problem with my S124 E220T - I need to replace the rear shock absorbers (self leveling suspension), as the left shock has loose at the bottom where it is fixed to the suspension arm and there is some serious knock when the wheel hits a bump or a hole.
I have spare shock absorbers in my donor car - S124 300TE-24, but these shocks are not exactly the same - the ones in my E220T have written big "7" on the bottom and the shocks in the donor car (300TE-24) have written "6".
What is the main difference between them and are they replacable?

Thanks.

 

[Bolide]

You'd have to compare part numbers to see if they're interchangeable

Why don't you find the source of the noise before replacing the legs? There's a bottom bearing, a top mount (kit of parts available) and a few other bit & bobs that can clonk. The legs themselves can't clonk unless they're bent. Even if they are bent I still don't think they'll clonk

I'd look at the leading subframe bushes, bottom joint below the leg, top mounts, tow bar & diff bushes before replacing the legs

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[stumpy]

My exhaust back box sometimes hits the tow bar arm causing a loud clonk.

 

[Seweryn]

You'd have to compare part numbers to see if they're interchangeable

Why don't you find the source of the noise before replacing the legs?

Hi Nick,

The source of noise is actually the left shock absorber.
I just have them removed from the donor car and I know now that they are interchangable. However in the donor car I found the left shock marked as "6" and the right one marked as "7". In my car both shocks are "7" and I need the left one actually, so I am a bit stuck, as I need two "6" or two "7". I think the "6" ones were mounted into the Sporline models. Can anyone confirm?

 

[Bolide]

Check for part numbers here

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb0.asp?TP=1

or call an MB dealer parts department

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Seweryn]

Check for part numbers here

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb0.asp?TP=1

Thanks Nick,

I actually know that website, very helpful indeed.
It looks like the left and right side shocks are the same, so in this case I can fit the "7" pulled from the right side of the other car to the left in my one... I will do the excersize on Saturday and update the post if I am successful.

Thanks.

 

[Seweryn]

I will do the excersize on Saturday and update the post if I am successful.

I started on Thursday, all went OK, and within 1-2 hours I had the shock almost out, just the oil pressure line to get disconnected as a last thing. And then the oil line got cracked, as I didn't put too much attention when I tried to disconnect it from the shock hose. So, the serious problems started then.
To cut the long story short, I had to remove the metal oil line between the accumulator and the shock absorber - when you think, there are only 3 srews to deal with. It took me all Friday afternoon (my car), then on Saturday I removed the good one from my donor car (almost 3 hours) and then I fit the good line into my car. I never had so much trouble with dismantling anything in a car in my life, as far as I remember anyway...
Then after I finally installed the healthy oil line, I started the engine to see if there are any leaks and I just discovered... a leaking oil supply line (or the return one, not so sure) which goes from the front of the car to the height adjusting valve unit (it is the left side line). The small crack was probably there for some time, but I didn't spot it before. So I got back home very unhappy, I didn't even tidy up my tools or anything, I am still in my bed with sour back and I do not know what to do.
Is there any way of getting some cut and joint solution rather than replacing the whole line, even as a temporary repair?

Thanks.

 

[RonH]

Hi,
what you need is a length of 6mm cupro nickel brake pipe and 2x 6mm compression straight line connectors.Cut bad section out and replace.
The original pipe is of steel i believe, and you will not get a "flare" on it with a cheap brake flaring tool.(you would with a hydraulic flarer if you can get your hands on one).
Mercedes will sell you the whole length of pipe, from front to back, the right length with connections on both ends.........but i think you would have to dismantle most of the rear suspension carrier to get it to fit!.
Hope that helps.

 

[television]

As RonH above,,what I di on my Citroen CX cars and these problems I would clean up the pipe along a good piece for about 2" tin this with lead and slide a piece of copper pipe over the join and solder up using a small gas torch to get enough heat to let the solder flow.

If you got the new pipe as RonH says as long as you have a good section to work with you can then cut to suit.

Or ask any Citroen workshop to do it as they have the gear and expertise to do it