S63 Coupe Jack Stands

[chic0821]

I want to remove the wheels to apply Gtechniq C5 wheel armour. Planning to use my hydraulic jack with locating puck in jacking points. When its in the air, where is the best position for jack stand. Only one corner will be in the air at any given time

 

[Blobcat]

@daveenty is your man, he’s probably had his off a few times already

 

[V6Matty]

@daveenty is your man, he’s probably had his off a few times already

Dave will have his on the mini lift though Russ, though will have seen the underside enough to maybe give a rough idea

 

[Wighty]

Does the car have a rubber lift/jack point under the front crossmember that pokes through the under panels.
I sometimes put the axle stand loosely under that just in case the jack gives way

 

[daveenty]

As Matty says, mine's always in the air by using the lift so no need for axle stands. At my age I need things close to eye level and avoid bending down as much as possible.

Were I to use them though I'd be jacking on the front cross-member and using the stands on the jacking points. As for the rear, probably the lower control arms...

 

[chic0821]

Lifted a rear corner by putting the jack under the designated lifting point so I could have a good look. However every thing seems covered with plastic panels. Don't want to be under it removing panels when its on the jack. Sort of defeats the reason for belts & braces approach.

 

[daveenty]

I've just had a quick look under mine and appreciate what you're up against. An awful amount of plastic there isn't there.

The covers on the lower control arms look like they're held on by the 4? light grey plastic spear type things which should just unscrew half a turn and then pull out, enabling removal of the covers. For the "belt and braces" approach which you are trying to achieve, it may be possible to use the differential instead, or the yolk at the front of it, to lift the car, then the jacking points for your stands? Just thinking aloud really and what may work for me may not be suitable for you but that's how I'd be looking at doing it as you're quite limited on options.

The front seems simpler by using a track control arm.

 

[Craiglxviii]

As Matty says, mine's always in the air by using the lift so no need for axle stands. At my age I need things close to eye level and avoid bending down as much as possible.

Were I to use them though I'd be jacking on the front cross-member and using the stands on the jacking points. As for the rear, probably the lower control arms...

Yep, the biggest solidest least slippy bit of steel one can find is always best!

 

[chic0821]

daveenty, appreciate your help, thanks

 

[chic0821]

Well, I started today, rear first. Lifted the rear corner with my hydraulic jack in the lifting point until the wheel was just off the ground & had a proper look underneath. Saw a large beam behind the diff which connected to the suspension at either side. Bit of a struggle getting in, so decided to place jack stand under this & leave the hyd jack in the lifting point.
Got the wheel off & thought, quick clean then Gtechniq on. How wrong could I be. The inner half of the barrels were cacked in brake dust. Used everything I had including petrol but it was solid. Even used a brillo pad but it was hardly moving. After an hour or so I was beginning to despair then I remembered I had some Wonder Wheels (the acid based stuff) from about 15 years ago. Nothing ventured, so on it went in small areas & with lots of scrubbing with a nail brush it started to lift. About 2 hours later it was off. The front of the wheels & half the barrels were perfect so obviously the back half had never been touched. The callipers were pretty sorry looking so they were cleaned & attacked with a wire brush, masked up & brush painted with Hammerite smooth silver. Will put on another coat tomorrow & give the wheel another good clean before the Gtechniq. Looks like its going to take 2 days per wheel. Keep me out of trouble