Self-levelling suspension: Why have it?

[grace]

:? I'm a Newby with a recently purchased 1976 280...with self-levelling suspension. I know nothing about it, so I need some input from you guys. What's the advantage? In other words, why did Mercedes equip it's cars with it, and why isn't it used now? What maintenance is required? I'm putting new shocks on the car, so what kind/type should I use? Anything else I should know about the system? Since I live about 2 hours from a Mercedes dealership, most of the upkeep on the car will be done locally. Help!

 

[dieselman]

Self levelling keeps the back of the car up when it is loaded. The system should only be in operation when the rear of the car is below normal ride height.

It uses a system of hydraulic pump, actuator valve and rams. Also there are gas speres to provide springing when the system is in operation.

 

[Bob 2316]

welcome Grace

Hi grace
welcome to the Mercedes benz Association Discussion Forum. as a newby myself i would like to welcome you and have a pleasant experiance here in the forum.

sadly i dont know much about self leveling suspension but i think Dieselman has summed it up pretty well.

A `76 280 lovely!
what about posting some pics of yr car up in here? amd maybe tell us a bit about your car. how long have you owned it etc. you mentioned a 2 hour drive from a Merc garage! do you live way out in the countryside?
what goes on in Montana?

best regards

bob

 

[steveperry]

Hi Grace,

Pretty much as Dieselman has said. My previous car, an '86 model 190E, had self levelling rear suspension. The pump for the hydaulic fluid was a mechanical type that was bolted to the front of the motor crankshaft. You could load the car up and it would pretty much sit level without sinking to the ground, I think that car had also been used for towing caravans in its previous life.

I wouldn't let anyone loose on the system that hasn't worked on similar hydraulic suspension systems if your car is going to be looked after by an independent as opposed to a stealer (dealership).

S.

 

[TimN]

The thing to watch out for is rotten flow and return pipes which run uner the right habd side of the vehicle. They have a tendency to corrode where the clips are holding them to the underside of the floor pan.

You are in for a big shock if you excuse the pun. They are about £200 each in real money. If the car has a tendency to sag after a while then you would do well to refurbish the torsion bar activated valve. This kit will cost £34. Chances are that some of the pipes which will have to be removed will shear. Don't bother with MB as they will supply 5 different types before getting it right and that would mean 1,000 miles to you. Just take all the bits to a hydraulic pipe specialist and they will make one up for about the same price. Use banjo connection so as not to stress the pipes.

Self levelling suspension is great for sneaking contraband and illegal immigrants past customs as they don't realise how heavily loaded the car actually is. (Only joking)

 

[njpumphrey]

My old 200T (1982) needed the pipes replacing as they leaked badly. As I recall it only cost £60 from an independant mechanic to replace both the RH lines, although it continued leaking until I realised that he had failed to tighten one of the nuts!

My most recent aquisition (a 1982 240TD) doesn't have the system at all. I was most shocked when I was looking round it to find all the bits missing! The car had been owned by a mechanic at one point, and he may have found it to be cheaper to rip it out and change the rear shocks than repair it. I don't know if this is a common modification, or if there are any problems associated with it as I haven't lived with it for long enough.