sensor sensibility

[aegir slc]

Hi, I'm looking to locate and replace the crank position sensor on my '78 350slc,i'm currently thinking that it is located a couple of inches clockwise of the timing needle but cannot be seen,is this correct? I believe the part no. is 0011537428 is this also correct? anyone know where i can get a new one?many thanks

 

[television]

The sender on that engine is only for the diagnosis socket and will not stop the car from running

Is yours the 116 engine

 

[aegir slc]

yes it is the 116, i had run the cable from the sender and discovered it did indeed end in the diagnostic socket so this would make sense,i wish this same socket were capable of diagnosing why my ****** car won't start!I,ve been systematically replacing the ignition system and this was suggested after one of the ballast resistors was overheating [now replaced] Thanks for the reply at least now i know another thing that its not,which all helps,cheers

 

[television]

I take it that you have a normal distributor and photo cell or points

 

[aegir slc]

Yes its a normal distributor with points [again replaced] I have started to seriously look at alternatives for the entire ignition system,is this taking things too far or is this a viable alternative? thanks again

 

[television]

I will give you a run down on how to set it up and check this evening

 

[television]

A car with a ballast resistor uses a 8 volt coil and when running the voltage flows from or through the resistor and on to the coil. Therefore you must have 12volts on one end of the resistor and 8 volts on the + terminal of the coil with the ignition on. when the starter is operated, this shorts out the resistor putting the full 12 volts onto the + terminal of the coil.

With the ign on and the points open in the distributor there must be 8 volts on both the + and - on the coil. with the points closed there should not be a voltage on the - on the coil.


Remove the center high voltage wire from the dizzy cap, turn the engine round so that the points are closed, turn on the ignition and hold the high voltage wire about ½ inch away from an engine earth point, turn on the ignition and with a non metallic blade or spike, lever open the points and there should be a healthy blue spark from the end of the high voltage wire to ground, if the spark is weak or golden in colour, then it could be the condenser.

There are many old wives tales around where it is said that if the condenser has gone, then it will burn the points,, fair comment, the only snag being is that the engine will not start.

The coil works by an induced voltage collapsing back into the coil from the magnetic field that it has created. Now this induced voltage will try and come out through the points,, so to stop this the condenser is wired across the points contact, and this acts as a gate to push the induced voltage out through the secondary of the coil to give a full spark. the condenser as it charges also apposes the incoming voltage as it is out of phase to the induced voltage

Before we get on how to set up the timing please check that you do have a spark that can jump at least a ½ inch gap to ground or the engine metal parts.

The balast resistor must get hot as it has around 3 amps passing through it, if it is cold something is wrong with the wiring.

If you have a pace maker then do not hold the high voltage wire, but wedge it so that there is the right gap between the end of the wire and ground


This is a start for you