Serpentine Belt Tensioner Swap

[Rob Collins]

Hi Folks,

I was about to replace the brushes on my alternator and noticed a (low rpm) rattling noise coming from the tensioner and thought I'd best replace that along with the belt and brushes.

It's the older style tensioner with the strut that keeps the tension.

Now, I already have an A1122000970 tensioner from a donor car and (before I start undoing bolts) would like to know if I can completely replace the older tensioner and delete that strut.

Does anyone have experience or advice about the possibility of this swap? See below...

Current tensioner/idler with strut:


Replacement(?) tensioner/idler:

 

[M80]

Sorry I can't tell you how easy to replace with the newer design. I guess that would also require some trial and error of replacing the belt for a newer size also.

My thoughts are that if the original tensioner has got through 21 years then going for new and original will se you and the car out. Good enough imo.

 

[MinionBob]

My instinct is you are making a rod for your own back, weather it fits or not (tension could be too low/high even if bolt holes align). Just replace with the same.

 

[Rob Collins]

Thanks Bob,

Nice analogy! Went straight to my lizard brain.

I think you're right about that. But I will see if the wheels are the same size. Mainly wanted to update that or maybe swap the bushings.

Let's see...

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Might be worth checking the shockabsorber you see in the picture ,..If that goes it lets the tensioner rattle

 

[rifiki]

And change the idler pulley.

 

[Rob Collins]

Alright!
Just to tie up the thread, I replaced the whole tensioner unit.
New strut, pulley and mount.
Strut was in bad shape, so I could've done it cheaper, but nice to replace the whole unit for not much more cash.

Replaced the belt too, and it's all much tighter. Alternator running fine.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Robby enjoy it now .Nice to know it is fixed