Several issues with a R320 CDI 4 Matic

[Greg_0ry]

I need some advice on my 2009 R320 4 Matic.

I have currently two issues which seem to be bigger issues than I like to have.

1. The car is sometimes not accelerating properly and switches gears far to later over 2k RPM. Normally it’s about 1.5k RPM.
Occasionally it helps to switch the car off entirely and start it again which has worked in the past but it seems this is no longer working as before.

2. The car is sacking down on one side after I come back from a drive but will always pump up again when starting the car.

The advice I am after is if it makes economical sense to let the car repair or would it make more sense to buy another second hand car? The car is lovely but I have to admit it’s far too expensive to run so I am really in the fence what to do.

Thanks in advance

 

[Greg_0ry]

I assume I have to replace the MAF sensor or better the entire unit to rectify the acceleration issue which will not be cheap and potentially with the other problem more expensive than the car is worth

 

[sl500amgsport]

I need some advice on my 2009 R320 4 Matic.

I have currently two issues which seem to be bigger issues than I like to have.

1. The car is sometimes not accelerating properly and switches gears far to later over 2k RPM. Normally it’s about 1.5k RPM.
Occasionally it helps to switch the car off entirely and start it again which has worked in the past but it seems this is no longer working as before.

2. The car is sacking down on one side after I come back from a drive but will always pump up again when starting the car.

The advice I am after is if it makes economical sense to let the car repair or would it make more sense to buy another second hand car? The car is lovely but I have to admit it’s far too expensive to run so I am really in the fence what to do.

Thanks in advance

How many miles has it done and when did it last have the transmission oil changed?

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[Greg_0ry]

How many miles has it done and when did it last have the transmission oil changed?

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115k
I change my oil every 6-7000miles so the last one was around 109k I believe

 

[Greg_0ry]

Sorry I was talking about the engine oil.
If there is a difference I have never changed it since I bought the car at 87k

 

[JBell]

Sorry I was talking about the engine oil.
If there is a difference I have never changed it since I bought the car at 87k

Gearbox fluid should be done at 50k / 5 years then every 4 years after.

I would get it scanned on Xentry before randomly changing parts

 

[Greg_0ry]

Gearbox fluid should be done at 50k / 5 years then every 4 years after.

I would get it scanned on Xentry before randomly changing parts

Yes, 100% correct

The last thing I want to do is throwing money at the car which I don’t have at the moment (Have been made redundant recently). I even think about the economical sense with potentially two bigger repairs. The running cost after successful repairs is still high with Tax over £600 and fuel cost craziness so need to think long and hard what my plan is for the car.

 

[JBell]

Yes, 100% correct

The last thing I want to do is throwing money at the car which I don’t have at the moment (Have been made redundant recently). I even think about the economical sense with potentially two bigger repairs. The running cost after successful repairs is still high with Tax over £600 and fuel cost craziness so need to think long and hard what my plan is for the car.

They are not cheap to run but selling a car with problems will massively affect the value.

 

[Greg_0ry]

They are not cheap to run but selling a car with problems will massively affect the value.

Yes, I know.
However, spending £2000 on it and maybe able to get 4k in the end is also not the best option

 

[sl500amgsport]

Yes, I know.
However, spending £2000 on it and maybe able to get 4k in the end is also not the best option

The high revs before changing gear could be transmission oil related (assuming you have reset the auto gearbox), if never changed a relatively cheap way forward to change the oil, otherwise could be an expensive repair...Had the same on my Range Rover, repair bill (new gearbox) exceeded the value of your car so you want to avoid that....



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[Steve@Avantgarde]

I need some advice on my 2009 R320 4 Matic.

I have currently two issues which seem to be bigger issues than I like to have.

1. The car is sometimes not accelerating properly and switches gears far to later over 2k RPM. Normally it’s about 1.5k RPM.
Occasionally it helps to switch the car off entirely and start it again which has worked in the past but it seems this is no longer working as before.

2. The car is sacking down on one side after I come back from a drive but will always pump up again when starting the car.

The advice I am after is if it makes economical sense to let the car repair or would it make more sense to buy another second hand car? The car is lovely but I have to admit it’s far too expensive to run so I am really in the fence what to do.

Thanks in advance

Firstly, dont replace anything without doing proper diagnosis, the most expensive way to fix cars ever.

To address your faults:

The car is in limp mode, hence the short shifts, you need to get the codes read first.

The car has a leak somewhere on the air suspension, usually its the air spring itself a known issue on the ML and R of that era, but a visual inspection is reequired.

 

[Greg_0ry]

Firstly, dont replace anything without doing proper diagnosis, the most expensive way to fix cars ever.

To address your faults:

The car is in limp mode, hence the short shifts, you need to get the codes read first.

The car has a leak somewhere on the air suspension, usually its the air spring itself a known issue on the ML and R of that era, but a visual inspection is reequired.

 

[Greg_0ry]

I need some advice on my 2009 R320 4 Matic.

I have currently two issues which seem to be bigger issues than I like to have.

1. The car is sometimes not accelerating properly and switches gears far to later over 2k RPM. Normally it’s about 1.5k RPM.
Occasionally it helps to switch the car off entirely and start it again which has worked in the past but it seems this is no longer working as before.

2. The car is sacking down on one side after I come back from a drive but will always pump up again when starting the car.

The advice I am after is if it makes economical sense to let the car repair or would it make more sense to buy another second hand car? The car is lovely but I have to admit it’s far too expensive to run so I am really in the fence what to do.

Thanks in advance

Attached the error code I have been able to capture with a device my neighbour has

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

On a proper machine I think that would point you in the direction of an air leak or possibly an inlet port shut off motor. The problem with generic scanners is the software capability of them is limited and it throws out some very strange fault ode discriptions and I dont recognise that code at all.

I really would seek out a Mercedes specialist workshop who can accurately diagnose your issue accurately. If you post your location, we may be able to recommend someone.

 

[Greg_0ry]

On a proper machine I think that would point you in the direction of an air leak or possibly an inlet port shut off motor. The problem with generic scanners is the software capability of them is limited and it throws out some very strange fault ode discriptions and I dont recognise that code at all.

I really would seek out a Mercedes specialist workshop who can accurately diagnose your issue accurately. If you post your location, we may be able to recommend someone.

I understand and agree but the current value of the car and the possible cost for a Mercedes specialist to look into this is my issue. When this is fixed the value of my car is between 3-4k so if someone is charging me an arm and a leg then I can better use the money to buy a newer car and see how much I get for mine in its current state.

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

Diagnosis should cost you no more than £100. Thats £700 cheaper than the maf you wanted to throw at it on the off chance of it fixing it on paragraph 2....

 

[Greg_0ry]

Diagnosis should cost you no more than £100. Thats £700 cheaper than the maf you wanted to throw at it on the off chance of it fixing it on paragraph 2....

So far I am trying to get an idea what the issue is I am not throwing money out of the window trying my luck. The diagnosis is maybe £100 but thats not the repair. Perfect situation would be to understand the problem and the cost first before making a decision.

I know a Mercedes specialist thats not the problem I am just not in the position to pay lots for a repair so need to find another way.

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

So far I am trying to get an idea what the issue is I am not throwing money out of the window trying my luck. The diagnosis is maybe £100 but thats not the repair. Perfect situation would be to understand the problem and the cost first before making a decision.

I know a Mercedes specialist thats not the problem I am just not in the position to pay lots for a repair so need to find another way.

Diagnosis is part of the repair...you cant fix it without knowing whats wrong with it...

You dont go to a dentist for a filling without an investigative check up first even if you know which tooth aches..

I give up.

 

[DSK]

I kind of guess where you are coming from in the sense you don’t want to get taken for hundreds by a garage and be left with the issues not fully resolved. But, certainly a diagnostics from a specialist who works on these as bread and butter would be best. Sadly the guessing game and trying a part here or there no longer really applies to modern ish stuff.

Your issues would certainly not have me looking to replace the car or question outlays as they sound like usual things that need to be addressed once in a while. A newer car does not mean better or less issues and no 2 used cars are the same!

Suspension wise as stated it sounds like a leaky air spring. Sounds quite bad if it’s that noticeable. A new air strut would be the cure unless you want to try your luck with a Merc breaker for a used one. For the other issue, why not get a £100/200 diagnosis and see if you can then fix the fault yourself?


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[sonic]

Steve@Avantgart comments make total sense. Get the codes read at a MB specialised garage.
You will then know what the fault is, & can decide if you have the funds to fix it.