Shockingly good... but caution advised.

[Two-chins]

Took the plunge and bought Monroe rear shocks for the CLK320 '98 and what a difference. If anyone gets a feeling that the rear steps out slightly or there is a harsh clatter over bumps, then one (like mine) or both rear units have stopped damping and the spring(s) are doing all the work. Mine was the nearside unit that was buggered. With a new pair it's hard to believe such an old bus can handle so well.
CAUTION required when removing old dampers: jack up car, remove wheel, undo damper in rear boot, remove lower mount bolt for damper... and then remove torsion bar drop link. DO NOT think you can force it out of way to clear space for damper removal because it will snap -- it's made of plastic not cast ally (only £6 with rubber bush to replace but that's beside the point). Also remove rear caliper to get as much clearance as possible while gently pushing down rear swingarm. Do reverse for install.
New fuel filter has stopped the fuel pump whining with big kick down of throttle. Glad I went the cheaper option of £35 (Mann filter) for filter over £85+VAT for pump. Phew.

 

[television]

Thanks for the feedback and good report with info

 

[Two-chins]

Ah young man I see you are still watching forum carefully, with the other eye on Russian-Merc porn. Bit the bullet tonight and ordered a Merc workshop service/repair manual on DVD for all CLK range to date. UK Evilbay page was advertising it. Does thee want page address, or confirmation that it don't ****** open when I get it?

 

[television]

Ah young man I see you are still watching forum carefully, with the other eye on Russian-Merc porn. Bit the bullet tonight and ordered a Merc workshop service/repair manual on DVD for all CLK range to date. UK Evilbay page was advertising it. Does thee want page address, or confirmation that it don't ****** open when I get it?

Some work and some do not, some can use them and some cannot, some can fit dampers,some cannot.

You can will do it

 

[roadhog]

Out of interest, where did you get the Monroe shocks from? I was trying to get some for my W124 but couldn't find them for any reasonable money. I ended up with Bilstein units which I find very good as well.

 

[television]

Out of interest, where did you get the Monroe shocks from? I was trying to get some for my W124 but couldn't find them for any reasonable money. I ended up with Bilstein units which I find very good as well.

Some one put a link up last night for them £97 for the adjustable ones

 

[roadhog]

Too rich for me Malcolm, I paid £47 each for the Bilstein. I don't really need adjustable either, I doubt my oil burner will ever see a track.

The last time I had adjustable shocks on a car I started off with the softest setting and then left it there as I couldn't be bothered to remove them just to try a different setting. Kind of defeats the object.

I do remember Monroe from my younger days, they have quite a good reputation in Germany.

 

[television]

Too rich for me Malcolm, I paid £47 each for the Bilstein. I don't really need adjustable either, I doubt my oil burner will ever see a track.

The last time I had adjustable shocks on a car I started off with the softest setting and then left it there as I couldn't be bothered to remove them just to try a different setting. Kind of defeats the object.

I do remember Monroe from my younger days, they have quite a good reputation in Germany.

Thats exactly what I said last night, to take them off to adjust defeats the whole thing

 

[Two-chins]

My Monroe shocks

My Monroe shocks came from a Peterborough company called CAS, or Car Auto Spares. I originally went to Formula One centre in Peterboghorror for price and they came up with a really expensive price. Man said labour included. I said stuff labour as I'll fit myself. Man replied they don't just retail parts -- but gave part number for shocks and sent me off to CAS. Think CAS man did them trade because man at Formula sent me, plus he liked motorbikes particularly the one I was riding at the time. £74+vat for the pair. Ssshhh. They are bum basic replacements inc rubber top seal, rubber damper block and nuts and washer. I lobbed the original lower mounting bolts in favour of stainless Allen bolt (good grade and strength) and lock-nut. No point in rebound and compression adjustment because two-ton car and rear shocks don't transmit enough feedback to warrant twitting about with screwdriver every five miles to achieve a compromise. Besides 8/10 owners wouldn't have a clue what to do, espesh with separate springs with no preload adjustment. No sirree. As Mr TV will, I'm sure, agree.
Some people think they can do it; others do it while thinking about what they're doing.

 

[television]

Some people think they can do it; others do it while thinking about what they're doing.

You have missed one out Others do it while wishing they were doing something else

 

[Two-chins]

No, seriously...

...I'm all done thinking about it...

 

[The Crooner]

I lobbed the original lower mounting bolts in favour of stainless Allen bolt (good grade and strength) and lock-nut.

I'm interested, I've previously been advised that stainless is not good for use in suspension due to being brittle.

How do the grades on the bolt you used compare to the MB equivalent.

I'm interested, not being picky.

Tony

 

[Two-chins]

They differ by not being rusty. On a serious note: the bolts are not under any shear stress, deflection stress or any other stress, unlike myself. The bushes in the lower part of the dampers sit tight in the swingarm. The bolts are there to retain/position rather than provide tension force. Providing the locknut isn't over-tensioned by being torqued in place, the bolt is cool. I've used
1000s of stainless fasteners over the years to replace mild steel etc, and not one has failed due to the secret:

...don't over tighten them.

Mild steel bends; threads stretch; threads wear flat on extraction of bolt when two surfaces are held in place but not central.

Manufacturers rarely use stainless because of cost factor, and also because on cars bolts open to the elements are noramally protected by plastic trim or covered in sealing agent eg underseal. Motorcycles now largely feature stainless fasteners in most areas because they are so open to road salt/grunge attack.

 

[The Crooner]

Thanks

Interesting, may rethink our approach to a VW aircooled Beetle chassis we are rebuilding - had previously discounted SS for the above reason, even though we had wanted to use stainless.

Tony

 

[roadhog]

On a serious note: the bolts are not under any shear stress, deflection stress or any other stress, unlike myself. The bushes in the lower part of the dampers sit tight in the swingarm. The bolts are there to retain/position rather than provide tension force.

Run that by me again? The bolts on my rear shocks are very much in shear, can't see yours being different. I do agree with the over tightening bit though.

Thanks

Interesting, may rethink our approach to a VW aircooled Beetle chassis we are rebuilding - had previously discounted SS for the above reason, even though we had wanted to use stainless.

Tony

I wouldn't. Yes, they may be used on bikes but the weights and moments there are much less than any car.
Stick with what was there in the first place. When I took my bolts out after 16 years and nearly 200k miles the cadmium plating was in quite good nick.

 

[The Crooner]

I wouldn't. Yes, they may be used on bikes but the weights and moments there are much less than any car.
Stick with what was there in the first place. When I took my bolts out after 16 years and nearly 200k miles the cadmium plating was in quite good nick.

Thanks

Reconfused (is that a word?)

Tony