Sill(y) question

[johnboy615]

Does anyone know where I can buy an outer sill for an SEC please? I've found Beevers selling 4 door sills but not for the coupe. There's a 5p sized hole between the jacking hole and the jacking rubber mount. My local garage is quoting £50 to patch or £150 to mend and make "perfect". I just wanted to consider replacing the whole thing before making the decision. Thanks. JB

 

[television]

As MB see what they take for them

 

[rob the painter]

If it's only a small hole I would reccommend a good quality 'invisible' repair. That way the sill retains it's original structural integrity and if the whole sill is painted correctly there should be no more corrosion for a long time to come.

 

[television]

If it's only a small hole I would reccommend a good quality 'invisible' repair. That way the sill retains it's original structural integrity and if the whole sill is painted correctly there should be no more corrosion for a long time to come.

That does make sense and much cheaper, so I agree 100%

 

[johnboy615]

Thanks guys, I'll go down that route. Best wishes. JB

 

[television]

Thanks guys, I'll go down that route. Best wishes. JB

Much money will be saved by doing that,,it is an awful job to re spray all of the door shuts, and the doors would have to come off to do that

 

[teddycatkin]

As the others say--it just needs welding up--but check all the rest of it carefully as well--then shop around for a good welder too ? --use a good heavy gauge metal sheet--it will only cost a few pounds and if its just that one hole £50 for a really good job sounds about right.
Replacing the whole sill with welding /painting and buying one could set you back 10 times that !

 

[johnboy615]

I don't mind the £50 but the question is: Should I spend 3x that for the "invisible mend"? I'll take the advice and go for it. The welder comes highly recommended so I guess if it's3/4 hours work as he says it should be worth it! JB

 

[teddycatkin]

The "hole" should be ground and cleaned off --clean bare metal !--the "patch" is then inserted inside the hole tacked in place and a running weld put round it and any rough bits of metalground off---if its a good welder should not be needed?.
You can treat and rustproof the bare metal yourself --then smooth it over with isopon
flat it and paint it with an aerosol or matching touch up --it will then be "invisible"-
---cost £20 max?
Do it in stages over a few weeks when you are happy with it Waxoyl inner and outer sill to prevent it rusting again.

 

[SilverSaloon]

As the others say--it just needs welding up--but check all the rest of it carefully as well--then shop around for a good welder too ? --use a good heavy gauge metal sheet--it will only cost a few pounds and if its just that one hole £50 for a really good job sounds about right.
Replacing the whole sill with welding /painting and buying one could set you back 10 times that !

Hi

my sills on my 107 were completely rotted at the front. as the rest of sills are good i decided to cut away the rotted metal and replace with new metal. takes a lot of prep work and time to get it to look good but now i'm happy with the repair.

repairing is better IMO as you wont be effecting the structure of the vehicle to such an extreeme as removing the whole sill.

make sure you use the right guage of metal aswell for the sills.


some pics of my repair work for your info/interest:

before:

rust cut out:

finished (i still want to paint with a ripple-effect stone chip guard though):

thanks

derek

 

[D1gger5]

Don't forget to get Waxoyl/protection up the inside of the sill otherwise the Rot will develop from the inside out. You only know it has happened when the pin-holes appear.

Common on many cars from the 60's to 90's is the rear wheel arch sandwich. Then the new arch repair panel is fitted and blended in BUT they never protect the back (cynically when the MOT plated repair is simply to weld a patch over it and not remove the rot)

Diggers

 

[SilverSaloon]

Don't forget to get Waxoyl/protection up the inside of the sill otherwise the Rot will develop from the inside out. You only know it has happened when the pin-holes appear.

Common on many cars from the 60's to 90's is the rear wheel arch sandwich. Then the new arch repair panel is fitted and blended in BUT they never protect the back (cynically when the MOT plated repair is simply to weld a patch over it and not remove the rot)

Diggers

Hi

I have been treating and protecting (usually with POR-15) the area behind where the new patch is going to go - right up to where the edge is where the weld will go. Same with the reverse of the new patch panel. Then once welded, i've por-15'd the lot and coated with resin prior to underseal. waxoil was sprayed inside the sills, mainly from when the side panel was out so i had good access and then once that was welded on (and the sill was sealed closed), i used the small access holes that are dotted around the sill to gain access for waxoil to be sprayed in.

more detail on my sill repairs can be seen here on my restoration blog:


http://r107restoration.blogspot.com/

 

[johnboy615]

Hi

my sills on my 107 were completely rotted at the front. as the rest of sills are good i decided to cut away the rotted metal and replace with new metal. takes a lot of prep work and time to get it to look good but now i'm happy with the repair.

repairing is better IMO as you wont be effecting the structure of the vehicle to such an extreeme as removing the whole sill.

make sure you use the right guage of metal aswell for the sills.


some pics of my repair work for your info/interest:

before:

rust cut out:

finished (i still want to paint with a ripple-effect stone chip guard though):

thanks

derek

Yours looks like mine in reverse; I've got an old weld patch at the rear and the new one is further towards the front. Yours looks much better in the after pic. If I hadn't been certain your pics would have been the clincher. It does look so much better when the whole thing has been cut out and repaired. Many thanks again to all. JB

 

[SilverSaloon]

Yours looks like mine in reverse; I've got an old weld patch at the rear and the new one is further towards the front. Yours looks much better in the after pic. If I hadn't been certain your pics would have been the clincher. It does look so much better when the whole thing has been cut out and repaired. Many thanks again to all. JB

it was useful having the end of the sill out as you can shine a torch down to the other end to inspect the metal inside without disturbing the outside. in my case mine was ok - slight rust showing on the passenger side, but not much. i plan to do this next winter as time is running short to get the car back on the road.

 

[johnboy615]

The car is in now being welded. I'm having the cut out and mend option ie £150. Anyone wanting to see the result is welcome to have a spy at Duxford. Thanks again to all contributors. JB

 

[SilverSaloon]

The car is in now being welded. I'm having the cut out and mend option ie £150. Anyone wanting to see the result is welcome to have a spy at Duxford. Thanks again to all contributors. JB

if you can, visit them whilst the big hole is there so you can shine a torch down the end of the sill to inspect the condition of the inside at the other end. you'll then know how urgent this extra work is.... also try and get a couple of pics?

cheers!

 

[johnboy615]

All done and looking good. The good news is that the inner sill looks to be in great condition. Though I was a little mystified to recieve the call: "your welding is done sir, would you like us to underseal it?" No just leave it completely open to the elements so it rusts to f**k again please!

 

[spotweld]

Try and get the welder to use the TIG process if he is as good as you say he will know what your talking about reason is you can drop the amps right down and minimise the heat distortion plus you can skin tack any patches in( Thats using no filler wire for tacking only) preparation is the key the cleaner it is the better and easier the welding will flow and you will get good fusion between the old and new material
( Old welders never die they only smell that way )
Regards
Bill mac