sl500 doors

edhinho

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hi all, this is an update from my post of 12/12 about window adjustment on a 97 r129. On closer inspection ( 1st daylight chance for weeks ) it looks like the passenger door has dropped somewhat - see bad photo. Does that mean a hinge adjustment job ? If so I need a few pointers --
adjustable or shim ?
body bolts or door bolts or both ?
how to support the door when adjusting ?
striker and window adjustment after ?
am I dreaming I can do this ?
any help would be appreciated or should I get it booked in with my indie - the excellent SPR AUTOS in Stockport.
p.s.
merry chistmas !
 

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television

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The bottom hinge needs shimming out to lift the rear of the door.

Just loosen the bolts lift the door at the rear.

You can make your own shims with 0 grade red sandpaper that you can cut with an old pair of scissors and shaped to 50 in the link. If you make the shims with U shaped holes they can be slid in with out taking the bolts right out just by having someone lift the rear of the door.

The striker plates on be pillar must be removed first and you shim the door so that it closes at the correct height, when re fitting the striker plate it should be fitted so that when the door is closed it sits 1mm proud of the rear wing
 
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edhinho

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thanks malcolm, again! better pics this time. do you ever have a day off?
regards
edhinho
 

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edhinho

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doors again

shim bolts on the body or bolts on the door??
thanks again.
 

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shim bolts on the body or bolts on the door??
thanks again.

its where the hinge fits to the body.

I was thinking again about this and there is normally adjustment built in, but I could not see it last night.

Rethinking if you loosen the bolts on the bottom hinge where it meets the door, the holes could be elongated to allow for the door to be lifted at the rear

The is often a captive sliding plate the the screws go into

Do try this first
 

type49

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its where the hinge fits to the body.

I was thinking again about this and there is normally adjustment built in, but I could not see it last night.

Rethinking if you loosen the bolts on the bottom hinge where it meets the door, the holes could be elongated to allow for the door to be lifted at the rear



Do try this first

Yes, these are elongated for this very adjustment. It could also be just the catch itself is too low. See if the door drops slightly just as it closes. This will be a lot easier to adjust that the door.
 

television

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Yes, these are elongated for this very adjustment. It could also be just the catch itself is too low. See if the door drops slightly just as it closes. This will be a lot easier to adjust that the door.

Thank you Type 49, its funning how you can do these things without thinking when its in front of you, then someone asks, and the brain does not work as well:confused::confused:
 

television

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thanks to both of you, I`ll let you and all know the outcome.
sandpaper shims???

Forget that, you can do it on the bolts on the door, not the A pillar

Do not forget about the lock keep and make sure that it is not pushing the door down when you close it
 
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edhinho

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thanks to both of you, I`ll let you and all know the outcome.
sandpaper shims???
 

Xtractorfan

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To be honest with you I would say this is a job for a bodyshop, these doors are fitted with bolted hinges and are every which way adjustable. they are extremely difficult to manipulate on ones own.. Please first check that there is no play up or down in the hinges, grab the open door and attemt to lift ,and check for play in the hinges, check out a local bodyshop and ask for quotes it shouldnt take more than an hour to do.. if u wanna try it yourself i will write u up a procedure.. and never touch the striker plate,(the lockcatch) unless u are absolutely sure it has been moved previously...and u know where it should be
 
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edhinho

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xtractorfan you`ve got me worried now! however, if i`m only loosening the bottom hinge bolts the door cannot move much can it ?
also, is there the same range of adjustment on the hinge to door bolts, as malcolm suggested trying ?
oh well, fortune favours the brave and I can always pay someone to put it right if I balls it up!!
ps it looks like the striker has been moved in the past
 

television

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xtractorfan you`ve got me worried now! however, if i`m only loosening the bottom hinge bolts the door cannot move much can it ?
also, is there the same range of adjustment on the hinge to door bolts, as malcolm suggested trying ?
oh well, fortune favours the brave and I can always pay someone to put it right if I balls it up!!
ps it looks like the striker has been moved in the past

This is not that hard to do, lets try again, when you push the door up, is the striker plate too low and pushing the door down as it closes. this is one thing. if it is slacken the 2 torx screws and raise it a touch, as before the door should close without the lock part touching the bottom or the top of the plate, and the door should be 1mm proud of the wing.

If the hinge has worn, and that I doubt then loosening the bolts on the bottom of the door will enable you to lift the back slightly, and correct the problem.

You cant get into a mess doing this as you do not touch the hinge where it bolts onto the front of the A pillar.

If you have access to a jack then put this under the rear of the door with a piece of wood on top, you only need to slacken the bolts a touch to lift the door, you cant get it in a mess

People do silly things like leaning on a large door when its open, and slightly deforming the frame, doing the above its easy to correct
 
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edhinho

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sl500 doors - the outcome

after taking expert forum advice I took another look and reckoned shimmimg at hinge to door bolt would move door AWAY from body not lift it(door1 pic)
SO - tools -- penetrating oil 13mm socket/extension/low torquewrench torx bit small hammer bits of wood highly trained assistant (wife)
*measured and made 2 shims after using penetrating oil on hinges on hinges and striker.
*marked original position of hinge and striker
*loosened hinge to body bolts (xtractorfan was right, the hinge moves in all directions) just enough to tap in shims whilst highly trained assistant lifted rear of door (minor domestic ensued)
*align hinge with markings and retighten
*check lines/fit by eye -not bad
*loosen and raise striker by approx 3mm
*check lines/fit again + spend 20 mins adjusting striker to get door "1mm proud" at edge
*check gaps with guage block made from plastic cutlery
*test drive ----wind whistle gone !!!
*stand back and admire the beautiful lines of the finest car I will probably ever own, and my own handywork of course!
*berate wife for accusing me of loving car more than I love her (close call)
thanks to all for their knowledge and advice
 

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television

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You make life worth while, and thanks for the pictures. Good work, and I bet that you are pleased. :D:D
 
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edhinho

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last question - what would a main dealer /bodyshop have done? in other words is what I`ve done count as the dreaded " bodge" job??
expert replies only please!!
happy new year
edhinho
 


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