SLK 230 Panel Lights

[wez.k]

Hi everyone

My instrument lights are playing up, specifically the LH half of the speedo and the RH half of the Temp/Fuel. Sometimes they come on when I switch the lights on and sometimes they dont. When they are on they are on and when they are off they are off, i.e. they dont flicker. Presumably its not the bulb as this would not light at all if it had failed, so perhaps its a loose connection, or a loose bulb? The rest of the instrument cluster light up OK.
Does anyone know how to get at them?

Dealer would like to have it in for a couple of hours and charge me loads of dosh!

 

[jberks]

The bulbs have small metal contacts that connect to the metal strip on the circuit board. The normal problem is oxidisation on the contacts together with a gap developing between them and the surfaces wearing due to vibration. Its only hair-line so sometimes they work, sometimes they dont. Also bulbs tend to play up as they reach the end of their lives.

The best thing to do is to remove the cluster and bob down to the dealer's parts counter and replace all the bulbs together. Otherwise you end up with some parts of the cluster brighter than others and if you are going to the trouble of removing the cluster its worth replacing all the bulbs. Get some contact cleaner and go over the connecton points before fitting the new ones. That generally does the trick.

The dealer quoted my dad £70 to replace the bulb behind his clock on his C class. Bobbed it to the indie I use, he had it 5 mins (including driving off the forecourt and back again) and wouldn't take a penny!

 

[Scissorwoman]

I had the same problem on my SLK but on the right side between the rev counter and the speedo....I solved mine when I had to change the clock time at 6 am Monday morning - I accidentally 'flicked' the clock adjuster stalk and lo and behold there was light...!!

 

[wez.k]

Thanks

Thanks for your replies.

Any instructions on how to remove the cluster would be appreciated. I have managed to remove the lower part of the dashboard but you cant reach the bulbs from there and I cant see how to get any further.

 

[television]

though there are special tools for this job, I and a few others feel it is safer to push it out from the rear, it will be tight, push one side and then the other. It will come out, the special tool (from MB) are hooks that go into the sides to pull it out, but there is a risk of breaking the expensive glass.
If you do not want to risk up setting milage etc you should disconnect battery. You have one or two multi plugs on the back.
It is tight to get out, and once it has moved it will come out with ease.

Malcolm

 

[wez.k]

push from rear

Thanks for your reply Malcolm.

Just to clarify things a little,

1. The three instruments are set in a black panel. Are we talking about pushing out the panel complete with the three instruments, or just the individual instruments themselves?

2. I get the impression from your reply that there are no fastenings holding the panel in - is this correct?

 

[television]

I will do a double check on your car this evening.

Malcolm

 

[television]

Yes, the whole thing just pushes out. this info is for a 170.
this is only possible on cars with an adjustable steering wheel, wheel mus be all the way out. Non adjust wheel must be taken off.

Malcolm

 

[wez.k]

I done it!

It was a faulty bulb. Getting access to it wasn't exactly as you said Malcolm, perhaps its a different model, but thanks anyway and here is how I did it for the benefit of anyone else who has the same problem.
1. Remove the RH fuse access panel which you can see when the door is open, (two big plastic quick release screws)
2. Remove the RH airvent/fusebox assembly. There is a screw going vertically upwards through the upper horizontal edge, and another screw into a support at the rear, which you access from the underside of the lower panel, forward of the hood release. When you have removed these the assembly can be pulled forward out of the dashboard, the headlight beam adjuster pushes out backwards.
3. Drop the lower panel. There are two screws behind a plastic cover which is itself secured by a screw adjacent to the steering wheel adjuster, plus others to the right and left and one at the top left hand corner of the aforementioned RH access panel (see 1.).
Dont take out any of the screws you may find down near to the pedals as these only fasten the black plastic cover around the pedals. When you have removed the screws the panel will drop downwards onto your legs, but will not come out entirely as it is tethered by various harnesses etc. At this point movement becomes difficult!
4. Remove the instrument surround panel. This is thin plastic and clips under the padded rim at the top. You can ease the rim upward to free it, and it can then be removed quite easily.
5. You can now see the instrument cluster, which is held in place by four bright plated screws, two at the top and two at the bottom. It helps if you have one of those bendy screwdrivers because the two lower screws are difficult to reach because of the position of the steering wheel.
6. Having removed the screws, you can move the cluster around, but you cant get it out completely, you can however move it enough to get your fingers around the back.
The bulb is a 12V/2W capless variety, held in a receptor which is sunk into a cavity in the rear surface. You can feel the end of the receptor, but you cant get enough leverage to turn it. For this you need a 12m/m socket, I used one from a 6m/m square drive set which had just the right O/D to fit in the recess. This will give you enough grip with your fingers to turn the receptor and withdraw it, thereby giving access to the bulb, which you can change and then repeat the whole process in reverse.

Enjoy!

 

[cabey1]

Hi, i posted this on another thread. Can anyone offer any advice:

Does anyone know how to remove the electrical connectors from the rear of an SLK (R170) instrument cluster?

I've tried for an hour and sadly it has defeated me. Obviously, I have been very careful as I dont want them damaged. This is so I can replace either the bulbs or the entire cluster. Cheers.

 

[television]

I have answered your other post