Sprinter front ball joints/eurocarparts

[Sprint'n'Go]

I think I will be attempting to replace both bottom ball joints on the front of my Sprinter in the next few weeks (one was picked up as an advisory at its recent first MOT). I seem to remember reading in a recent thread about balljoint replacement that the large locknut has a special pressure setting glue in it which has to be fitted and torqued in one go but I cannot find the thread or remember which model of mercedes it applied to. I haven't even looked at the set-up yet so can this job be done by a competant diy mechanic with a good tool kit or is it best left to the dealer?

My next question is about where to source the parts, I have always prefered official genuine parts but I have also had a look at the eurocarparts website. they list 2 parts with the following explanation -

"If you have more than one part number showing on the search results page - check the first 8 digits, if they are identical in more than 1 of the parts showing, the difference between them is their make. For example: 332456780, 332456781 and 332456785 are all water pumps for a Saab except '0' indicates 'Original Equipment Manufacture', '1' indicates 'Alternative Quality Brand' and '5' indicates 'Genuine Part'. "

They are only offering OE or genuine (0 or 5). Am I right in thinking the part number ending in 5 will come in Merc branded packaging?

The only other consideration is, if the official merc part is not too expensive it will have a 2 year warranty .

Any thoughts anyone?

 

[Blobcat]

I bought them from MB for my 'E' not that expensive and I know they are right. Noticed that the front nesr side tyre was 'picking' up on the tread blocks as the wheel could move whilst breaking. Had the ball joints changed and it is much 'tighter' now.

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=19469&highlight=ball+joints

Found it!

I assume this glue ring thing only applies to the M class?

 

[IAN MAC]

Replaced both mine on a 98 sprinter and it was a handful of a job, probably just because everything so heavy, straight forward press fit. ( pattern part and no problem )
Also did one on an ML, (2000 W ) press out but the Merc part replacement ( at 90 quid !!! ) had a locking ring for a C spanner, never mentioned any type of locking fluid. -- seriously tight fit so i doubt any other type of detent is required.

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

Replaced both mine on a 98 sprinter and it was a handful of a job, probably just because everything so heavy, straight forward press fit.

Thanks for that Ian. I am now full of confidence and will definitely tackle the job myself. I can handle heavy/awkward with ease (I have had the gearboxes in/out of my Landrover twice this year single handedly on the drive outside the house).

 

[mister_cee333]

it looks like a fairly straight forward job steve but after removing the entire wishbone from mine i still couldn't get the old one to budge. ended up taking it to hgv mechanic and i understand he heated it but also said that he usually does them without removing wishbone.
the next times i took the van to the same guy and price supplied & fitted inc vat was about £90 as i remember.
to be honest if you don't have the tools it will save a lot of sweat giving it to someone and paying the one fifty or so for both.
btw the first was a europarts and was as good as new 2 years and 50k on. i'm not sure where the 2nd was from. (this was a previous van i owned) or the 3rd (on current van).
hope this helps.

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

it looks like a fairly straight forward job steve but after removing the entire wishbone from mine i still couldn't get the old one to budge.

You obviously weren't trying hard enough

I bought the bits from europarts today and having seen what they look like I am even more confident. They are just like a Landrover rear axle ball joint but without tabs to bolt in the friction fit part. Perhaps I have always been lucky or maybe I have a huge right arm but I have never come across a bolt that won't undo or a bush I can't beat into submission unlike some people who have to burn off all the bolts because they wouldn't budge.

Perhaps I will feel less cocky after attempting the job?

 

[IAN MAC]

Hope your right steve, because mine took a hell of a heating, and beating, before they would come out. ( brutality usualy works a treat )

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

Woo Hoo! brutality rules.

Stripped down the lower wish bones and beat the crap out of them, score-

me - 2, wishbones - 0

then popped down to see my brother in law who just happens to work at the council vehicle repair depot and we pressed in the new balljoints on the 80 ton press, NICE.

Just got to put it all back together tomorrow ready to work on Saturday.

 

[GEORGEROV]

Hi Steve, Your original query about eurocarparts; If it says 'original equipment' quality then won't come in a merc box but that of the manufacturer who supplies them. Heard some bad things about ecp but I've dealt with them for years and quality always been excellent. Full exhaust system from them 5 years ago for my 500se and all parts were eberspacher, same as originally fitted.

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

Hi Steve, Your original query about eurocarparts; If it says 'original equipment' quality then won't come in a merc box but that of the manufacturer who supplies them. Heard some bad things about ecp but I've dealt with them for years and quality always been excellent. Full exhaust system from them 5 years ago for my 500se and all parts were eberspacher, same as originally fitted.

The ball joints I bought should have been a genuine part according to the part number and the website info but when I went to collect them "sorry sir but parts ending in a 5 are OE". Thats not what it says on the website but a genuinely OE part is exactly the same as a genuine part but without the box isn't it? I do prefer genuine parts but I think if you are careful about what you accept then some quality pattern parts can be satisfactory and save a few pennies.

 

[Cnics]

Got the front ball joints to do on my sprinter very soon. they've just passed the MOt (not even advised) but I KNOW there is some mistake there. (an issue i've taken up with the testing station as they also missed a couple of other bits which i am unhappy about).

I'm fairly limited on the tools front as i'm a sound engineer not a mechanical engineer, whilst more expensive would it be worth while to change the whole arm? in a "if one things on its way out the rest will be too" sort of thing or is this a silly idea? Just done the link arms at the front (along with a set of pads) which is when i noticed the ball joints.

Rob

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

Got the front ball joints to do on my sprinter very soon. they've just passed the MOt (not even advised) but I KNOW there is some mistake there. (an issue i've taken up with the testing station as they also missed a couple of other bits which i am unhappy about).

I'm fairly limited on the tools front as i'm a sound engineer not a mechanical engineer, whilst more expensive would it be worth while to change the whole arm? in a "if one things on its way out the rest will be too" sort of thing or is this a silly idea? Just done the link arms at the front (along with a set of pads) which is when i noticed the ball joints.

Rob

You will need a scissor type ball joint splitter, I struggled like hell without it and nearly had to throw in the towel for that reason alone. As for replacing the arm, you would still have to press the new balljoints into the new arms so you may as well find someone who will press out the old joints and press in the new ones. The 2 big bushes in the control arm/wishbone seem to last forever as I have NEVER heard of them being replaced on a sprinter (no doubt someone will come along and say differantly now).

 

[dava]

Nope your right.

 

[battwell]

http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/repository/MoT - Issue 15 - Apr 2002 .pdf

see members letters on page 5. should your ball joints fail?

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/repository/MoT - Issue 15 - Apr 2002 .pdf

see members letters on page 5. should your ball joints fail?

This is what I was also told by my own official merc workshop and my van didn't fail, just an advisory this time round. As I was looking for a vibration and the cost of parts was low (I do my own spannerwork), I thought it sensible to change them so they could be eliminated from the possible causes.

 

[battwell]

just a quick note. The garage i use to do my repairs, (a good friend with a ramp which will lift a 4.25m sprinter). is also a car mot testing station.
the official mot rules state that you cannot use heat on steering/ suspension units.
we use oxy to heat up the arm, melting the original ball joint in the process and then bang them out with a large persuader and a piece of purpose cut pipe. each side takes about 30mins to do this way. (have done about 15 this way)
as i use a class 7 mot testing station for the mots who seem to pick up and fail absolutely anything, the surrounding area is totally wire brushed up and sprayed etc.

when i checked with the class 7 station how he would do it he agreed it would be in place as i do with oxy, but it would be charged as if the arm was removed and then the joint pressed out. I wont say who the station is

 

[mogwai50]

wooooaaahhh i am all for saving cash but please anybody else heating the wishbone on/off vehicle beware!! drill a 3/16 hole in top of ball joint first,the gas that builds up as the grease heats can make the ball joint shoot out like a bullet and you loose teeth(i've seen it happen)