sprinter front suspension squeak

[Cnics]

when pulling up at the top of my road to turn round this evening i noticed a squeaking noise from the drivers side front.

When stood still turning the wheel causes an awful racket, and pushing down on the front end does the same, as it was dark i've not had more of a look, i'm guessing its shocker based, it's too noisy to just be a bit of a noise and nothing to worry about, and it has come on very suddenly, the vehicles not driving any differently.

I'll have a good look tomorrow but just wondered if anyone could give any pointers other than front leg(s). Also, are these worth putting on as a pair?

Its a 52 311

Rob

 

[IAN MAC]

1st guess, i'd say check the bottom ball joint.

 

[Hmac]

I agree with Ian. I've just replaced both sides on my T124 because of this. If it is the bottom ball joint you really should do both sides so you are not over-loading the 'other' side.

 

[Cnics]

Ball Joints were done about 20k ago, although i know they're prone. On closer inspection today, the squeak appears to be coming from the steering rack. I am informed that you can buy the rack ends separately and do not have to buy the complete rack.

So i've borrowed an N reg Astra Diesel in White for my job tonight, I'm quite surprised actually at just how bad it is.

 

[Cnics]

Update, track rod and track rod end put on that side which cured the problem. Van appears to drive better.

HOWEVER. I've done about 150 miles and it has returned. So i'll try a ball joint as suggested here, anything else it could be, really odd how it disappeared an then came back.


Rob

 

[dava]

It will be as said the ball joint, when you've had it jacked up to fit the TRE you'll have distrubed the ball joint abd the first pot hole you hit it will settle into it's routine, or some grease got on to it when jacked up as they drop down with the weight off it. You could try putting a small hole in the boot on the ball joint and spray wd40 in using the pipe supplied, if it goes off, then needs done.

 

[Cnics]

They don't half get through some ball joints..... That's tomorrow's (today's) job then.

It drives 100% better since doing the TR and TRE though, so when i've done the ball joint i'll do the TR and TRE the other side, and the ball joint there aswell.


What will have caused the ball joint to have gone wrong this early (about 22k /5 months looking through the invoices) Lots of bumpy roads? I live in north Derbyshire which is known for it's inability to surface roads properly. The part was from Merc would it be under warranty (not too fussed they're not expensive, but it does mean another half a day scrambling on the floor when i could be doing something more productive).


Rob



A quick edit. Having a think about things, i'll be honest, i've had a few parts go wrong from Merc. Alternator clutch pulleys were 1 every 3 months for 12 months until it (according to merc) didn't do the alternator any good. My viscous coupling has never been 100% but i've never asked about that as i wasn't aware what was right and wrong until i'd had it for over a year. And now these.

 

[dava]

I've fitted new ones that had more play on than the ones I had just took off. Also if they are fitted incorectly, ie without the tool and some one used a 2lb hamer to fit them, then thats not a good start to their life.

 

[si.]

They don't half get through some ball joints..... That's tomorrow's (today's) job then.

It drives 100% better since doing the TR and TRE though, so when i've done the ball joint i'll do the TR and TRE the other side, and the ball joint there aswell.


What will have caused the ball joint to have gone wrong this early (about 22k /5 months looking through the invoices) Lots of bumpy roads? I live in north Derbyshire which is known for it's inability to surface roads properly. The part was from Merc would it be under warranty (not too fussed they're not expensive, but it does mean another half a day scrambling on the floor when i could be doing something more productive).


Rob

maybe the van has been driven up and down kirbs sideway and the ball joints are knocking the kirbs

when i have had to do them i get ablow torch on the arm fior 10 mins so it expandes an then i press the joint in using a 10 ton press and dont cool them down using water, just leave it for 20 mins would be your best bet. i bought my last ones from euro parts( the dearer joints) they usualy have a budget brand which they shouldn't be allowed to sell.