SRS restraints Failure.

[John77]

Not been in the car for about 2 weeks. Started it today and SRS Restraints Faulty. Visit workshop appeared. Not had chance to fault scan yet, but will later. Caused by? I know need the fault code, but thought that I would ask.

 

[Blobcat]

How’s the battery?

 

[John77]

Ok the car is a 2005 E200 estate.

Fault code says.
The resistance value in the ignition circuit containing component R12/17 (Right Front Window Airbag Ignition Squib) is too low?
and this means? and is fixed how?

 

[John77]

How’s the battery?

That's a good question I will take it off now and charge it over night. I know what you are going to say to my next comment lol. It is a 2004 battery (39/04) and it still churns out 13+ volts. This is a car I have had for 8 years and now I have a newer one, so it is sat on the lawn while I try to figure out the engine light fault. Next thread coming, so I can sell it at a sensible price as opposed to the £500 I have been offered because of the engine light.

Or is it run off that stupid consumer battery that turns off because of low power if it hasn't been used for 3 days or more?

 

[AMGeed]

^ If either the main battery or the auxiliary battery are more than 5 years old, replace them.
Your main battery may still "churn out" 13+volts (that's the alternator working properly) but how well does the battery hold its charge? Is it at a minimum of 12 6v+?
Mercedes do not like low voltage and spurious faults do appear.

 

[John77]

The battery is off the car at the moment and not fully charged and is giving 12.7 at the moment and I am sure that it will be higher when charged. I have never had a problem with it holding it's charge and as I am retired I do not use the car every day and even last February when we went abroad for 3 weeks and left the car at a airport car park, it started immediately on our return. The auxiliary battery is a year old. I do not understand people who change things for the sake of it. Yes you can say, but one morning you will come out and it will be flat, but that could happen with a newer battery. I think that things were made better then and probably have thicker plates than the cost effective ones they produce today. Each to their own I suppose.

 

[John77]

Well charged the18 year old battery yesterday and took it off the charger. Left it overnight and check it's output this after noon and it is 13v. i think that that is acceptable and really cannot see the point of changing it. As a wise man said. If it's not broken, don't fix it and when it does fail I will just go and buy a lower quality new build battery, that probably will only last 5 years.

 

[Botus]

^ If either the main battery or the auxiliary battery are more than 5 years old, replace them.
Your main battery may still "churn out" 13+volts (that's the alternator working properly) but how well does the battery hold its charge? Is it at a minimum of 12 6v+?
Mercedes do not like low voltage and spurious faults do appear.

don't agree - If it an OEM AGM battery - the world went in to destroy itself mode and the older batteries are better and last much longer - with 15 years of development - the manus noticed they last 10 years, so have been reducing the moisture content ever since "to ensure they struggle to make the end of 3 years" as they originally intended

peel back the label, fight to unscrew the stupid lids, and top up with distilled water - then charge it up - reset the level, and you can often find a 10 year old one should work at least as well as an 18 month old one in a modern car

I checked my 18 month old one the other day - needed more than the 16 year old one did, on the on the old wreck - but it and hasn't recovered as well either - so no doubt some additional design enhancements, to stop the current stuff lasting

all part of a plan - we've got to damage the planet more - so that we can worry the slaves enough to get away with stealing much more of their money - then we'll start to finish them off,as nothing left to give... and that should make the gamble on trashing the planet vs life existing pay out - if they managed it right... For the naysayers how's taiwan, the monkey pox vaccine, and your 4k increase in electricity bills going ?

 

[John77]

don't agree - If it an OEM AGM battery - the world went in to destroy itself mode and the older batteries are better and last much longer - with 15 years of development - the manus noticed they last 10 years, so have been reducing the moisture content ever since "to ensure they struggle to make the end of 3 years" as they originally intended

peel back the label, fight to unscrew the stupid lids, and top up with distilled water - then charge it up - reset the level, and you can often find a 10 year old one should work at least as well as an 18 month old one in a modern car

I checked my 18 month old one the other day - needed more than the 16 year old one did, on the on the old wreck - but it and hasn't recovered as well either - so no doubt some additional design enhancements, to stop the current stuff lasting

all part of a plan - we've got to damage the planet more - so that we can worry the slaves enough to get away with stealing much more of their money - then we'll start to finish them off,as nothing left to give... and that should make the gamble on trashing the planet vs life existing pay out - if they managed it right... For the naysayers how's taiwan, the monkey pox vaccine, and your 4k increase in electricity bills going ?

Yes. Anyway the battery has been standing in the garage, not on the car for 8 days now and still putting out 13+ volts, so no, I won't be in any rush to change it, but the shitty auxiliary batter that is less than 2 years old puts a sign up on the dash as not available if the car is not used for 2 days, but as I said. Each to their own. I am more sensible with my money and possessions and do not change things or dispose of them for the sake of it. Next time you are at your local tip getting rid of garden waste, just look around at what people of throwing away, just for the sake of it. Yes every extra unneeded battery manufactured adds to the death of the planet, but we have got passed the point of return there and there is no way back. Botus makes some good points. Maybe we should listen to them and not be held to ransom by manufacturers producing time limited products. Even MB have been putting in built in time usage items in there cars for a while now. Take for example the braking system on my 2005 Eclass. I think it is called SBC. After so many thousand pushes on the bakes it has to be taken off and repaired/reset. Not had that done yet so that could happen any time soon. My 2011 Eclass is far superior, but has faults which I find sad for an MB. One example is the rocker cover gasket that after so long leaks oil into the spark plug recess and the gasket has to be changed. Not a very good design really. Any way I won't Ramble on. Now that is a great track (Ramble on) look it up on you tube and have a listen lol.

 

[Botus]

there was an update extending the time to death switch off - I think a lot of taxi drivers hit it well inside the original warranty period - and in the USA a big extension to cover all brake parts under warranty for more than 10 years on the back of deliberate rip off the consumer activity

I found an extend the counter feature in my Autel diagnostic kit for my fathers w211 SBC nasty

 

[ajlsl600]

don't agree - If it an OEM AGM battery - the world went in to destroy itself mode and the older batteries are better and last much longer - with 15 years of development - the manus noticed they last 10 years, so have been reducing the moisture content ever since "to ensure they struggle to make the end of 3 years" as they originally intended

peel back the label, fight to unscrew the stupid lids, and top up with distilled water - then charge it up - reset the level, and you can often find a 10 year old one should work at least as well as an 18 month old one in a modern car

I checked my 18 month old one the other day - needed more than the 16 year old one did, on the on the old wreck - but it and hasn't recovered as well either - so no doubt some additional design enhancements, to stop the current stuff lasting

all part of a plan - we've got to damage the planet more - so that we can worry the slaves enough to get away with stealing much more of their money - then we'll start to finish them off,as nothing left to give... and that should make the gamble on trashing the planet vs life existing pay out - if they managed it right... For the naysayers how's taiwan, the monkey pox vaccine, and your 4k increase in electricity bills going ?

I on same train

 

[John77]

OK both batteries fully charged for 2 days. Put them back on the car same fault on the dash. Do I need to remove the fault with a code reader to reset it?

 

[LostKiwi]

SRS faults can only be reset with a code reader. They won't self reset.

 

[John77]

SRS faults can only be reset with a code reader. They won't self reset.

Hi yes thank you. I think above I did say with a code reader, but no difference after removal of fault.

iCarsoft MB V3.0 for Mercedes-Benz/Sprinter/Smart​

 

[LostKiwi]

If the fault won't clear it's because the problem is still there.
The code suggests either a short in the wiring, a bad SRS controller or a bad squib. Unplug the connector at the squib and see if the code changes. If it does it's the squib. If not it's wiring or controller.

 

[John77]

If the fault won't clear it's because the problem is still there.
The code suggests either a short in the wiring, a bad SRS controller or a bad squib. Unplug the connector at the squib and see if the code changes. If it does it's the squib. If not it's wiring or controller.

Thank you. I will have to look up what a squib is lol. It says the fault is in the r/h door.

 

[LostKiwi]

The squib is the airbag itself.

 

[John77]

The squib is the airbag itself.

Thank you

 

[John77]

If the fault won't clear it's because the problem is still there.
The code suggests either a short in the wiring, a bad SRS controller or a bad squib. Unplug the connector at the squib and see if the code changes. If it does it's the squib. If not it's wiring or controller.

Ok so finally getting around to looking at this. Do I need to disconnect any batteries or anything else before touching this? I take it that this item is behind the door card somewhere?

 

[Conor]

I had this issue before.. similarly, I had left the car a few weeks (err months!?)..

Cleared the codes and disconnected battery to no avail.

What finally fixed it was disconnecting both batteries and leaving them disconnected for about 20 minutes or so.. to fully enable the control units to clear.

Hope that helps.