Steering wheel shaking

Nico2104

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Viano,2013, 3.0 v6 diesel
Hi everyone, I have a 2013 mercedes viano 3.0 v6 diesel, when driving above 60-65 mph the steering wheel has a wobble/shake, I have recently had 4 tyres fitted, balancing and wheel alignment done, I have actually have the wheels balanced at 3 different garages and still the same problem after each one. Also had new front discs and pads to eliminate the chances of it being them causing a wobble. If any could help I would really appreciate it as I really am stuck and so is the garage. Cheers
 

M80

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Viano 639, 651 5sp Auto.
Ball joints, bearings.
Engine mounts would have to be pretty bad to cause that in the steering wheel.

I have had issue with tyres, if it is possible to swap out wheels with different tyres to eliminate it might be useful.

I could ask your mileage but as so many of these have been clocked it may well be a meaningless question.
 

hmang

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As above , control arm /suspension ball joints or

Buckled /damaged wheel ?

more difficult to see on the inside when they're on the car .
did you watch them spin up on the balancer ?


If yours has some miles on , might be worth checking the bearing on top of the suspension unit ( if it's the same as the old 639 )


Could also be cheapo ( not very round ) tyres .......what brand did you fit ?
 

MinionBob

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Viano - 2012 - OM651 Engine - 2.2
Was the wobble there before fitting the tyres?

would agree with the above however: joint of some kind. possibly rack also?

If you have had 3 wheel alignments (within a close timeframe) and at each wheel alignment the steering geometry was different, then this wodul suggest a joint of similar is loose.

If both sides were constantly out, then logically this would suggest the rack. One side being out wodul logically suggest a joint of similar on the side that was constantly 'out'.

Universal joint on steering column too, by bulkhead, if tracking was always in spec

Wherasbouts you based?
 
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Nico2104

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Thansk from your replies, it's only the balancing I have had done 3 times but is booked in tomorrow for an alignment recheck which is free of charge as its within 30 days so worth having checked again , the shaking only came once tyres were replaced but whether its coincidence or not I don't no, that's the reason I've had the balancing done so many times so i could eliminate that, I I ask the each garage to check the wheels for any signs of buckling but all straight as far as they are concerned. I did have a more severe wobble when breaking above 60 but the new discs and pads have stopped that so it's just the wobble/shake with normal driving. It had a brand new steering rack on about 6 months ago. It's also had a brand new anti roll bar which is the whole bar on mine and not just rubber bushes. Just seems a strange one as car was smooth as it could be and now while this wobble isn't really bad it is just so very annoying especially as I do alot of motorway driving. Cheers
 
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Nico2104

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Sorry I'm based in derby in the Midlands, cheers
 

Blobcat

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R171 SLK280, Smart R451, Land Rover 110 County SW, 997 C2S, R1250 GSA TE 40th, CBR600FP
Wouldn’t be the first new tyres that aren’t round... not very common but it can happen. They will balance but still shake as they’re not round...
 
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Nico2104

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Ok thanks, do you think maybe I should try swapping the back wheels to the front and see what the outcome is. Cheers
 

Blobcat

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R171 SLK280, Smart R451, Land Rover 110 County SW, 997 C2S, R1250 GSA TE 40th, CBR600FP
Ok thanks, do you think maybe I should try swapping the back wheels to the front and see what the outcome is. Cheers
You could try that (assuming they’re the same size...)
Should also be able to check on a balance machine with a straight edge.
 
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Nico2104

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They are the same size, like I say I have had 3 different garages check the balancing on the wheels and do it, they have all had a good look and said the rims are straight so maybe swapping the back to the front would give me a idea as surely I could have such bad luck that all the tyres could be dodgy if it is the tyres. Cheers
 

M80

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Another thought and similar to Blobcat, look carefully at where the tyre fits around the rim.
The rubber line should be equidistant around the total circumference. It isn't difficult for a fitter to mount the tyre and not seat it correctly on the wheel.

The inside is more difficult to see and might even be missed at balancing as it isn't visible.
 

Kev555

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2011 vito 113 CDI OM651 W639 panel van
Possibly bent rim, I had this issue and two fitters missed it balancing wheels, third one spotted it as I had checked out all possible causes before this. As OP suggested to swap fronts to back, that will narrow it down to tyres or rim.
 
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john campbell

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Swap the fronts to rears and if they are budget tyres they are the problem. I work in a tyre center and you can tell and see the difference when balance is done. Usually when fitting budget tyres you need a lot more weights to get it right and a lot less on good quality tyres.
 
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Nico2104

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Just an update, put the back drivers side wheel to the front and still has a shake/wobble. I took the car in on Tuesday for the retrack after having the tracking done 10 days previous and the guy said the drivers side wheel was quite alot out on the tracking but all others were perfect. Does anyone no why the drivers side could be out so much after 10 days and literally I haven't hit any pot holes or kerbs to knock it. Track rod end is fine as I asked them to check, does this point to the lower control arm/wishbone needing replacing as a few have said. Cheers
 

M80

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I would have said if it was only apparent after replacing your tyres, then it's the tyres.

But you did mention that it was worse till you replaced your discs and pads. Do you have sticking pads, are they and the callipers sliding freely?

If the wrong grease is applied around the calliper sliders that can cause the rubbers to swell, and your problem.

wheels in the air and spinning the wheels can show them sticking. A good time to check the bearings also.
To look for ball joint play I prefer to get it on an MOT ramp for the 'rattle pads' to do their bit (for want of a better description of the motorized vibrating testing pad). For a few cans a good tester would spot that easily.
He would be inspecting your coil springs while there.

Drop links cause an annoying knock so they can be ignored.
 
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