Taking car off road for winter. What to do?? (R230)

EdgerR230

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Hi all,
IIm thinking about taking my SL off the road for winter.
Apart from insurance and road tax, what other precautions should I take?
Is there anything I need to add to the engine, prepare any seals, protect tyres, protect engine, protect paint, unhook batteries etc.

I wont be able to store it inside, it will be off the road on a private drive, under an 'outside' car cover.

All advice, no matter how basic, is happily received.

Ta
 

mioba

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Give it a good wash and wax outside.
Make sure the inside is spotless clean. You dont want mice inside. Check under the bonnet periodically - again mice like shelter.
Give it a start once a week.
Keep it on a trickle charger.
 

Blobcat

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Good idea to gummi pfledge the rubber seals and a battery conditioner is essential
 

LostKiwi

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Liberally spray under the bonnet and all external areas mice may want to go with WD40 - works well as a mouse repellent.
 

Wearsafoxhat

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and I always over inflate the tyres by 10psi or so too, along with the other precautions mentioned.
Regarding the starting of the engine or not, I chose to not start it and when I did, it was only ran long enough to warm the oil to aid changing it. It’s service before running it for the summer..


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DREAMER NO2

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W124 2.6E M103 1989
First thing i do is to fill the fuel tank, and i then add a bottle of RedX . Next i try and wax the car after a wash, so its clean before i put the sheets on [thermal sheets ] or cotton , rather than trust the cotton inside the car cover,then secure the sheets to door handles with string . Before that i remove the battery. Then put a little extra air in to the tyres ,,about 5 psi extra should do it ,, you dont want to be inflating tyres in the snow and ice Then i put old towels, and jumpers,, anything will do,, inside engine compartment around the engine and the heating and cooling system .Then remove any items you might need from the boot or glove box . Scotch the wheels,,i use block of wood under the front , and rear wheels ,most important is ,, put car in P and then release the foot brake, or hand brake, if you dont the brake shoes might stick to the disc , or the drums . Now its time to put the car cover on the car. Make sure cover is secure or the wind will soon damage it . Other members might have other ideas also ..But thats what i have been doing for the last 6 years .
 

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DREAMER NO2

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W124 2.6E M103 1989
Well i have just done step 1 before my car cover goes on. When i got to the garage i filled up with the E5 fuel ..ready to take the car off the road ,,and i poured in 1/2 bottle of Red X in to the tank . The tank is not far off full now . The thermal sheets are airing ready for going over the car first before the car cover. So the next nice day,, like today then it will be operation covert up ,,thats after i remove battery . I dont like to use the cover,there is nothing better than a garage for old cars ..The a car cover is second best . Also its nice to see the rain falling down and the car is nice and dry .Forgot to say in the post above .I do have three condensation traps ,,i fill them with granuals ,,pop one in the boot and two insde tha cabin . And after the winter is over the traps are holding water and just a few granual;d left intact ...
 

joderest

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I always worry about cars that have been layed up for a few months, could the tyres develop a flat spot where they are resting on the ground ?
I think i would jack it up and use four axel stands.
However, i never have the luxury of having a car i do not need to use. !!!
 

DREAMER NO2

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Joderest Well may be, but we are not all the same . And maybe some day you might like a classic sports car,, who knows .
And as for tyres, i get a new set every 2 years .And never had a flat spot on my tyres after its been parked up for 5 months .You can get cracks in tyres over normal use through the hot sun .Most show up in the tread of the tyre ..New law just been included in MOT test Is , curbed wheels and alloy damage will be a failure ,,and this damage will mean a new alloy ..
 

SL63 Mark

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R231 SL63 AMG
I use the SL throughout the Southern UK winter, but only on dry/sunny days. I like to take it out on the commute, or just do a few decent journeys every three or four weeks at least. In the worst wintry weather (Jan/Feb) it might not come out hardly at all, but with global warming we shouldn't have too many cold winters to worry about.

That I believe is best for it. Cars like to be used.
 
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brandwooddixon

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..New law just been included in MOT test Is , curbed wheels and alloy damage will be a failure ,,and this damage will mean a new alloy ..
Interesting - my car passed an MOT last week, even though it has a scraped front wheel with damaged rim protector strip on the tyre. It was marked up as an advisory (the tyre) as the damage didn't reach the cords.
 

DREAMER NO2

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I dont think the wheel rim check is included just yet .. but if the damage is found the mot checker will dig deeper in to the stereing gear to see if damage as gone further in to arms and other linkages .
 
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EdgerR230

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R230 06 Sl500
  • Thread Starter
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Thanks very much to all of you. Some really helpful and insightful pointers. I have a couple of minor things to do before I wrap the car up for a while.
Thanks for shedding some light on the issue.
 

NJS5

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Thank you I have seen & read that.

This comments is relevant:-

"Poorly written article. The MOT tester will inspect the wheel condition, failing where there is a safety related structural issue, nothing to do with cosmetics of the rim. Even if buckled it might not even make it to advisory. Tracking being out wont fail, but furry dice hanging from the mirror could fail ... "


There is no reference to the source though. I doubt that there has been any change in the regulations - I believe that this is just scaremongering.

Please prove me wrong.

NJSS
 

EmilysDad

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they must be referring to the USA where they have curbs .... we have kerbs! :rolleyes:
 

harrye500

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2010 A207 E500 (the Summer Car and Winter Garage Queen)!
EdgarR230, I never really knew best time to do the service before laying up. Best to change oil pre-lay up, old oil can apparently be acidic and doesn't like sitting around. My A207 keeper is currently laid up languishing in the garage! All good. Invested in a new trickle charger too the other week. 5 year old battery is still in remarkably good order. All good advice from chaps above, once a month starting should be OK that's what I am going with, get it to full temp. Also, RUN the AC while started so you keep the seals in good order. Adjust heater controls while running (cold to hot and vice-versa) so the flaps and valves and such like open and shut / move etc. Operate any moving bits occasionally like lekkie windows and, if you can, the roof. Mine will be back in use beginning of March, I'll be honest that I am really missing it already!
 

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