LostThePlot
Senior Member
Finally, after 4 days I managed to complete the water pump swap on my W124. Hampered by bad weather (I work on the street), ordering spares and returning crap pattern parts I finally have the car back together again, and running sweetly.
As my first job on the Merc I was a little nervous, but, by following the Manual, and asking questions on here it all came good in the end.
Things I would offer as suggestions for others considering tackling the job.
1) Yes, rad must come out, but it makes life a lot easier!
2) The bracket on the block that supports the tensioner and the power steering pump. It's not held on by 4 bolts, it's 3 bolts and a hex head (Sits Bottom Left when looking at mount from N/S)...sits in a recess which fills with crud and is therefore easily missed!
3) Take the bracket mentioned above off completely before trying to get the 4th bolt on the water pump. It'll save a lot of time...TRUST ME!
4) As you have the rad out check out your Dizzy cap and Rotor arm. Saves time and also wasting coolant.
5) Coat everything liberally with degreaser/penetrating oil as appropriate.
6) Re tensioning the belt. While you have the adjuster out, coat liberally with copperslip. Also if you have the little plastic arrow that is moveable then get the belt finger tight on the tensioning bolt before setting the arrow to the right prior to tensioning.
Anyway, once again thanks to all those who offered advice and good luck to anyone considering tackling the work?
As my first job on the Merc I was a little nervous, but, by following the Manual, and asking questions on here it all came good in the end.
Things I would offer as suggestions for others considering tackling the job.
1) Yes, rad must come out, but it makes life a lot easier!
2) The bracket on the block that supports the tensioner and the power steering pump. It's not held on by 4 bolts, it's 3 bolts and a hex head (Sits Bottom Left when looking at mount from N/S)...sits in a recess which fills with crud and is therefore easily missed!
3) Take the bracket mentioned above off completely before trying to get the 4th bolt on the water pump. It'll save a lot of time...TRUST ME!
4) As you have the rad out check out your Dizzy cap and Rotor arm. Saves time and also wasting coolant.
5) Coat everything liberally with degreaser/penetrating oil as appropriate.
6) Re tensioning the belt. While you have the adjuster out, coat liberally with copperslip. Also if you have the little plastic arrow that is moveable then get the belt finger tight on the tensioning bolt before setting the arrow to the right prior to tensioning.
Anyway, once again thanks to all those who offered advice and good luck to anyone considering tackling the work?
