Tried Osram LED 5W5 501 bulbs in boot lamps .... neither worked :(:(

[LostKiwi]

As for keeping stock bulbs that's a ridiculous solution. A dim yellow glow that does the square route of nothing. This is a bit like saying std halogen lights are acceptable in todays driving conditions. If halogens were remotely suitable you wouldn't half the drivers going round with a dead bulb one side and they are totally clueless its like that.

If standard halogens were so rubbish people would NOT be driving round with a blown one as they wouldn't be able to see anything at all.
ALL my cars that came with filament bulbs still have filament bulbs and are perfectly fine.
I have no issue with folks upgrading to better lighting as long as it's done legally and not by bodging LEDs/HiDs into standard lighting units.
In subs case its all a bit moot as they are interior lights but even so messing about with LEDs is proving problematic and is it really worth the effort, risk, hassle and expense? For me it wouldn't be but for sub it clearly is.
Bulb failure detection in the SAM often works by measuring a voltage drop over a very low value resistance or transistor in series with the bulb. No voltage drop=blown bulb as no current flows. A shunt resistor therefore screws that all up.

 

[Submariner1]

If standard halogens were so rubbish people would NOT be driving round with a blown one as they wouldn't be able to see anything at all.
ALL my cars that came with filament bulbs still have filament bulbs and are perfectly fine.
I have no issue with folks upgrading to better lighting as long as it's done legally and not by bodging LEDs/HiDs into standard lighting units.
In subs case its all a bit moot as they are interior lights but even so messing about with LEDs is proving problematic and is it really worth the effort, risk, hassle and expense? For me it wouldn't be but for sub it clearly is.
Bulb failure detection in the SAM often works by measuring a voltage drop over a very low value resistance or transistor in series with the bulb. No voltage drop=blown bulb as no current flows. A shunt resistor therefore screws that all up.

Thanks Alistair, and all the other posters.
To me its not worth the risk of messing up any electrics, possibly involved in the clever ILS. I also dont like the “splice in” type connectors.

So I Ordered 2 sets of OSRAM COOL BLUE INTENSE W5W, halogen, license plate position light, xenon effect for white light, 2825HCBI-02B, 12 V passenger car, double blister (2 units)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005OK4PR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_L-rWAb4GNF3KQ

I have Used them before, quite a bit whiter at 3,700K, and they say 20% brighter (they look it).

Sadly, My simple test of removing both std. boot bulbs, and on seeing no bulb failure message, I thought these LEDs. Might just work, and are worth £8 for a decent make!

Oh well not to be!

As I have them, would the 2002, A Class 168, throw a bulb failure message, if I used them in the Sidelights? ; and or would it have this sophisticated shut off facility?

I know the A Class has a bulb failure message on the Dipped beam, as it warned us when that blew.
So, I am guessing it would therefore have them on all exterior bulbs?

And if not, would LEDs on the sidelights be an automatic MOT failure?

 

[EmilysDad]

....

And if not, would LEDs on the sidelights be an automatic MOT failure?

I've had led side lights in my Smart Roadster for the last umpteen MOTs with no problem.

 

[Botus]

If standard halogens were so rubbish people would NOT be driving round with a blown one as they wouldn't be able to see anything at all.
.

that's the whole point ! they can't see anything and so when a bulb pops the difference is so slight they never notice.

cars used to be 14" narrower than today, roads used to be wider, we didn't have ridiculous traffic calming schemes hiding kerbs and bollards, and every 15 foot wasn't an 18" deep pothole. The skill level of drivers was much closer and better. We had traffic levels that were lower and speed limits higher thus the quantity of cars on the road was less. And they had 3 foot more room to play with making everything much easier.

most drivers vision and judgement is so impaired they think its normal. std halogens are not sufficient and drivers are risking lives and property

 

[Submariner1]

I've had led side lights in my Smart Roadster for the last umpteen MOTs with no problem.

Thanks, I suspected it was just the main and dipped they cared about.

 

[LostKiwi]

that's the whole point ! they can't see anything and so when a bulb pops the difference is so slight they never notice

Utter rubbish. I've never heard such flawed logic!

Halogens in both my Smart and my 210 are perfectly fine .If you can't see go to Specsavers and/or slow down.

 

[Botus]

if it was just me you may have a point.... as everyone I know personally has an issue with halogen lighting (and most merc owners on this forum) and yet you think they are OK, maybe your eyesight is the issue and you are just totally unware?

 

[LostKiwi]

if it was just me you may have a point.... as everyone I know personally has an issue with halogen lighting and yet you think they are OK, maybe your eyesight is the issue and you are just totally unware?

Given I can see well enough to do significant mileages in the dark I'd suggest either my driving by braille is pretty phenomenal or my eyesight is perfectly fine.

 

[EmilysDad]

....

Halogens in both my Smart and my 210 are perfectly fine .If you can't see go to Specsavers and/or slow down.

I've got to say that the Halogen headlights of my R Class are sh1te ..... both Smarts are far better.

 

[LostKiwi]

I've got to say that the Halogen headlights of my R Class are sh1te ..... both Smarts are far better.

Which is a great way to say the problem is less about the type of bulb and more about the headlight optical design.

The 129 lights aren't great but that's 25 years old and the optical design is definitely not what it could be but the same bulbs in the 210 are perfect.