Valve seals replaced

[pce]

Hi is there any one who can help

This week end I replaced the Valve seals on my 230te. I put the car back together and started first time. Only problem is she is now running rough. I have changed the ht leads I have double checked the timing marks and distributer. It does not seem to matter what I do she still runs rough. If I hold the car in gear (Auto BOX) with foot on the brake pedal and rev the engine it will only rev to 1500rpm. It idels in N and P ath 750rpm and tries to cut out as soon as I put it into D or R.

Any Ideas

Thanks with hope
paul

 

[rio678]

check coil voltage, dizzy cap etc, sounds like not enough spark

 

[carabind]

Sounds like timing , but assume you hadn't disturbed the distributor so timing should be unaffected ?
Or could be an air leak? Was there a breather pipe attached to the rocker cover that's now not air tight?

 

[television]

Sounds like timing , but assume you hadn't disturbed the distributor so timing should be unaffected ?
Or could be an air leak? Was there a breather pipe attached to the rocker cover that's now not air tight?

I was thinking on vacuam lines, but I do not think it would make that huge difference, what says or thinks you.

malcolm

 

[pce]

Many thanks to replys so far.
In reply I have checked the dizzy cap and looks a little warn but I have seen a lot worse. Have not cjecked coil voltage and come to that not sure how you would do. I do have Digital Multimeter so any instructions would be great.

The only pipe that was disturbed during the operation was the rocker breather pipe that goes to the air filter. This breathes very heavy with oil being deposited into the air filter chamber. I do think this was like this befor though.

I would also like to mention that before I did the valve seals the car was using about a litre of oil for every 250-300 miles. Was mainly visible early morning and after setting of from traffic light and junctions. Could also be noticed when hard acceleration?

Also when I put the car back and started it without the air filter housing the car seemed to gasp every few seconds.

 

[TimN]

Simplist way to check the output from the ignition system is to remove the caps from the sparkplugs and one at a time insert a snug fitting screwdriver into the cap and lay it on the top of the engine. A clear blue spark should be seen jumping the gap from the screwdriver to the rocker cover. Do not touch any of the HT leads during the test cause it hurts. By a process of elimination you can use this test to determine whether you have lost a spark to a single cylinder.

Perform a compression test to check that the valve timing is ok.

Always a good idea to turn the engine by hand after major work just to save any engine damage. I turn it round a couple of revolutions and recheck the timing marks just to be on the safe side.

 

[pce]

Thanks for reply Tim

I did a compression test and all cylinders were around 10bar. For a car with 200001 mile on the clock is ok I think?

Will try test at the weekend as I'm away for a couple of days

 

[carabind]

Compressions look fine for the mileage, and I assume they are all even. Still dosen't address your problem though, strange that it starts and idles well enough, but won't rev up properly and deliver power. can you describe the syptoms whlst driving ? Is the problem constant, or intermittent?

I'd still guess an air leak - a breather hose used to fall off an old fuego I had a few years ago, and that gave the similar symptoms

It's clearly something that been disturbed whilst you were at the valve seals. Other than admit defeat and take into a dealer, if you've tried all the ideas above, you'll have to retrace your steps and do the job again. I'm not familar with the engine, but did you have to disturb the valve clearances or camshaft at all?

 

[G MAN]

Having been around the HT/electricals just check the OVP, just in case

 

[pce]

Hi Thanks for new replies.
In doing my valve seals the cam remained inplace along with timing chain. I di this job with the head on and used a compressor to keep the valves up. (working pressure was around 7-8 bar). The car will go and I have done a few miles in it 10-20 miles. The power is right down and I tend to change gears manually to over come savage changes. (Smooth before valve seals).
We have a lot of hills near by and you need to drop down to 2nd for most. Starting from a junction car judders to start then accelerates okish. You can feel that it is just that little bit rough at all times.

The only BReather pipe I touched goes to the air filter and I have put this back.

Not ready to give up just yet. But as I said I am away till the weekend and car is not with me. Will try out other sugestions on Saturday.

Thanks to all who have submited and and who have any more Ideas.

Paul

 

[C220GJS]

pce, your mention of savage changes in your last post leads me to believe you have a vacuum problem as your gearbox will change harshly if there is insufficient vacuum present, check all vacuum hoses are properly in place, there is one from the inlet manifold to the gearbox that can be knocked off and go unnoticed.
Geo.

 

[carabind]

good spot. I'm almost sure it's air related, but missed the reference to gearchanges - if these have got worse since the valve seal chnage then looks like the kind gentleman before me has hit the nail on the head

 

[Ian B Walker]

Yep I think the previous poster has it right. The vac lines from the head, if put on the wrong way round will give you the symptoms you describe. I learnt the hard way. Spent a week trying to figure it out then some smart alec walked past my house and said, change the vac lines arround, then walked off. Happens to be a Merc Main Dealer Mech who moved in across the road (now moved on, mores the pity)

 

[mattkh]

Hi
Change the air filter.

 

[pce]

Hi

Well Thanks again for all your replies I will let you know the outcome at the weekend when I have had chance to look at the air lines.

I did have the pipe on the rocker cover off. Would there be any other lines
further down in the engine block that may have been miss lodged due to air from compressor in cylinder.

 

[pce]

Well I said I'd let you know how I got on, well here it is she now runnig as sweet as you may hope for a car that cost only £380. I cheked all the air/braether pieps and made sure they were all fine. Took the car for a short test. Still no change. I did an inline ignition test with a device I bought from e-bay. This showed ignition all to appear ok. Changed all the plugs and hey presto no more rough running. My final suspect was the plug from cylinder 3 which had oiled up. I don't remember this being like this when I did the valve seals. But hey with it now running well again who cares.

Would again like to thank you all again for your input.

On very happy person.

Paul:razz: