W/S212 bulkhead removal

Jim2

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A skinned knuckle kind of job......If I ever have to do it, I might just manage to talk myself out of it... What symptom's was it giving that made you decide to replace it??? Like I mentioned earlier...all of this stuff is installed before the engine and gearbox. I've often assembled new car body shell's, replacing a crash damaged vehicle (for example) and the engine, transmission and rear axle are nearly always the very last thing to be installed.
 
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Conor

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A skinned knuckle kind of job......If I ever have to do it, I might just manage to talk myself out of it... What symptom's was it giving that made you decide to replace it??? Like I mentioned earlier...all of this stuff is installed before the engine and gearbox. I've often assembled new car body shell's, replacing a crash damaged vehicle (for example) and the engine, transmission and rear axle are nearly always the very last thing to be installed.

Yes.. very much so.

Unfortunately the job is very much required.

The car has been consuming a lot of oil and I think a lot of it is because of blow-by from the PCV valve that I am trying to change. There is an internal rubber diaphragm/seal that I expect to be very worn. Remember the car has 198k miles lol.

There have also been intermittent rich/lean codes which may be a symptom of this, but also likely some O2 sensor stuff.

In any case, I am at my wits end that this large oil consumption will burn out the cats, which would mean the end of life most likely for the car. Just passed the MOT so I have at least one more year lol. Also having just relieved myself of nearly 800 quid for tires + brakes all around.
 

Jim2

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Yes.. very much so.

Unfortunately the job is very much required.

The car has been consuming a lot of oil and I think a lot of it is because of blow-by from the PCV valve that I am trying to change. There is an internal rubber diaphragm/seal that I expect to be very worn. Remember the car has 198k miles lol.

There have also been intermittent rich/lean codes which may be a symptom of this, but also likely some O2 sensor stuff.

In any case, I am at my wits end that this large oil consumption will burn out the cats, which would mean the end of life most likely for the car. Just passed the MOT so I have at least one more year lol. Also having just relieved myself of nearly 800 quid for tires + brakes all around.

Yes, you are right, its a essential job.Unfortunately!!! That piece of the the firewall bulkhead with the steering column poking through, did you have to remove that section of the column? or did you do a bit of creative cutting on the metal?
 
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Conor

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Yes, you are right, its a essential job.Unfortunately!!! That piece of the the firewall bulkhead with the steering column poking through, did you have to remove that section of the column? or did you do a bit of creative cutting on the metal?

I decided to call it a day. I've not removed the metal yet. I'm wondering if it's ok to remove that linkage? Or will it upset the alignment of the steering?
 

Jim2

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I decided to call it a day. I've not removed the metal yet. I'm wondering if it's ok to remove that linkage? Or will it upset the alignment of the steering?
Personally, I would be getting out my little tin snips, and making one small cut, rather than possibly interfering with the steering geometry..easy enough to "stitch " the two sides back together again. Some pop rivets and a similar bit of light metal should do the trick..Its not a load bearing part..maybe someone else has already done this job, and would recommend removing a section of the steering column, but I have never done it, so I don't know.
 
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Personally, I would be getting out my little tin snips, and making one small cut, rather than possibly interfering with the steering geometry..easy enough to "stitch " the two sides back together again. Some pop rivets and a similar bit of light metal should do the trick..Its not a load bearing part..maybe someone else has already done this job, and would recommend removing a section of the steering column, but I have never done it, so I don't know.

Tool late... lmao. Well to be honest, I would rather take the steering coupling off.. as opposed to cutting up the heat shielding.

It's not show in this pic but I marked the coupling in a number of places so I know what way to put it back on (spline) when ready. Thanks to @alexanderfoti for that tip... I can imagine I would have errored there.

Nearly there (to access final PCV bolt) but there is one more nut holding the heat shielding far up, which I cannot access with my ratchets, so it's off to buy a longer one tomorrow.

Toolstation has this nice Draper Expert extendable ratchet which I might pick up. For this job i've bought a hose clamp, which I didn't need and also will need this longer ratchet. When does the tool buying stop...? Never I am guessing which is why lads have drawers and drawers of stuff :rolleyes: Let's just say the space under my stairs is getting rather cramped now lmao.

IMG_20201001_160911.jpg

IMG_20201001_173614.jpg
 

Jim2

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Yes, I have not ever disconnected the steering column on a MB, so I could not really advise you. But marking the splines is good advice ..Quite a lot of the ones that I have disconnected had a horizontal groove through them, and a clamping bolt to secure them, so you were pretty sure that the splines matched up. If everything can be kept original, without any "modifications" its far better. But you have solved the problem anyway. Thats a fine looking ratchet too...but just when you think that you have enough, (and maybe more than enough ) they come up with something that needs a new tool......:(
 
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Conor

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Quick update.

Today I acquired a 12point 8mm socket with 1/2" drive that will fit onto my torque wrench (using adapters made it too long). I should be good to remove the final bolt holding on the lower heat shielding tomorrow and finally get at the PCV last bolt.

...Then it will all need to go back together again.
 
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So... finally!

I just had enough time to get the PCV valve off before it started to get a bit dull and cold.

Was a royal pain to get the heat shielding off once I had the final nut off.. My 8mm with 1/2" DR on torque wrench was great and I was actually able to place my fingers on it to get it off.

Lot's of pulling and dragging and then finally out it came!!

IMG_20201005_163013.jpg

Look at it in all it's beauty.. The cut out section is where the steering linkgage went through. Still a bit nervous about getting that all lined up later but cross that bridge.. not looking forward to putting it back in..

Now and only now.. could I get at the fifth and final bolt for the PCV valve. Look at all the space in there now. I've added the before shot also, just to remind what it was like before (tight!!).

crank-breather-firewall.jpg IMG_20201005_163404.jpg

Now.. look at what I finally got a chance to take off. Taking the unit off took about 10 minutes, with about 4 hours prep work.....

Even though the panels were removed it was still quite tricky to get at the final E10 bolt. I managed to just about break it with a couple of turns of the spanner and then finished off by hand. I'm very thankful it wasn't too tight. I think spec is like 6Nm or something.

Old and new...

IMG_20201005_171803.jpg


Looks like quite a bit of build up in the outlet of the old one, where there should be _no oil_. Gasket looks shot too. Fingers crossed that this will solve my oil consumption issue.

IMG_20201005_171755.jpg

I'm relieved!
 
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Conor

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Quick update.

PCV valve replaced :):):):):)

Heat shielding back on with all the screws fixed and even the little clips.. Steering linkage on and all lined up (yet to test).

I also think I may have found my leak... if you look at the bottom of the PCV valve you will see accumulated oil around the gasket area. Then the area below that.. any components there have freshly leaked oil there. Initially I thought it was when I spilled in the filling station before, but this stuff has been through the engine so it all makes sense. Between that and the cleaned up "blow-by" we should be in better stead.

Oh and.... I realised that I hadn't been closing the air box down fully. The two prongs up towards the MAF have been seated for possibly the first time since I took it off. Really takes a good "thud!". Well that is todays amateur hour bell well and truly rung!

That should seal things up nicely around the MAF sponge gasket.. and probably put paid to an intermittent lean code.

Next up I need to figure out what I am doing with the deteriorated sound proofing, and put the bulkhead/partition back in.

A good day and thankfully the reverse wasn't as fraught as the first time around.

Thanks for the input on this guys.
 
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Conor

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I'm not sure if its pure placebo based on putting the airbox on properly or fixing the PCV valve.. but man, oh man! The car seems to be much smoother and response from the off. I'm really enjoying it.

Hopefully this will put a dent on the oil consumption, other wise we will be going down the valve seal route.

Over the past couple of months I have been thinking about putting together a 2 year review (January 2021) on my experience of buying a high mile MB.. Should make interesting reading. While I have enjoyed it, and kept cost down DIY'ing.. other would probably see it as a cautionary tale and possibly rightly so..
 

Jim2

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I'm not sure if its pure placebo based on putting the airbox on properly or fixing the PCV valve.. but man, oh man! The car seems to be much smoother and response from the off. I'm really enjoying it.

Hopefully this will put a dent on the oil consumption, other wise we will be going down the valve seal route.

Over the past couple of months I have been thinking about putting together a 2 year review (January 2021) on my experience of buying a high mile MB.. Should make interesting reading. While I have enjoyed it, and kept cost down DIY'ing.. other would probably see it as a cautionary tale and possibly rightly so..

The review is avery good idea Conor ,,,if you are up for it, then go for it !!! :D
 

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Your having fun not eh!! Yest n today I removed the bulkhead panel from my w208 clk with 320 petrol then below screen drain panel .p/s electrical box with control units ,lots wires n plugs .all this to get at ,repair vac pipe got at by rodents .
Point being .I share yr pain ,makers dont give a toss about after build access. And I am organising an extermination program for rodents.
 
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Conor

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Oh and.... I realised that I hadn't been closing the air box down fully. The two prongs up towards the MAF have been seated for possibly the first time since I took it off. Really takes a good "thud!". Well that is todays amateur hour bell well and truly rung!

That should seal things up nicely around the MAF sponge gasket.. and probably put paid to an intermittent lean code.

Silly me.. that wouldn't make a single bit of difference, if there was a leak there, it wouldn't matter as it's before the MAF!

The review is avery good idea Conor ,,,if you are up for it, then go for it !!! :D

Yes Jim, I think so.. it will make interesting reading anyway. Because I remember when I was considering this car I was at a loss as to finding any information on the kinds of things that go wrong.. I should be able to provide a case study for people in future.

Your having fun not eh!! Yest n today I removed the bulkhead panel from my w208 clk with 320 petrol then below screen drain panel .p/s electrical box with control units ,lots wires n plugs .all this to get at ,repair vac pipe got at by rodents .
Point being .I share yr pain ,makers dont give a toss about after build access. And I am organising an extermination program for rodents.

Not fun at all.. that reminds me of the time I found a have eaten bread roll in my engine bay, which could have only gotten there one way. I am glad that they decided to bring some food with them..
 


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