W124 230E cold running problem

Russel

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W124 230E auto (1990)

I have a cold running problem. The symptoms are:
Engine starts as well as ever from cold but by the time I’ve started to drive away there’s what would seem to be a severe misfire. This is more evident when trying to accelerate when moving or pull away from a stop. When running at a constant speed it’s somewhat smoother but as soon as the throttle is opened the misfire/judder is evident. After a few miles of running it completely disappears & the car runs & pulls away from halts very smoothly.

This started a week ago on a cool & wet morning so I thought it could be dampness & gave it the WD40 treatment – same problem the next morning. I then cleaned the distributor cap & rotor arm (cap rotor & leads replaced 11 months ago), cleaned the contacts of the various sender units at the front of the engine etc; I put in new spark plugs (old ones looked fine) – problem still remained.

On Saturday I drove 180 miles (problem there for the first few miles then it ran perfectly). Returning home after 6 hours it ran rough from cold again (hot running was fine) – now there was certainly no dampness in the engine 6 hours after a 180 mile trip!

I’ve just taken the air filter case off & checked & cleaned again all the wires & contacts I could see – problem still there!

The only thing I did find was that one plug lead had rubbed on something causing a short length to be rubbed flat (about a 1mm of rubber removed). The strange thing was that the lead either side of the rub mark was ‘swollen’ to a noticeably larger diameter. I’ve seen leads rub before but never swell. I moved the lead well away from the engine (I’ll get a new set today). Problem remains.

When the engine is running cold (& rough) I’ve tried removing each plug lead in turn – the engine runs equally even worst no matter what lead is removed – so the problem is not related to a particular cylinder. There’s a single pin sensor with a long black plug right on the centreline of the engine just in front of the air filter case – when this is removed the engine again runs even worst (actually this applies hot or cold) so I assume that is working.

To sum up – the problem only occurs between a cold start & to reaching something approaching normal running temperature. I tend to think the problem is related more to fueling than ignition but I don’t know what to look at next.

Any help would be very appreciated.

Regards
Russell
 

Ramius

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Hi Russell.

I had a similar problem with my W124 300TE24. It turned out the rotor arm and distributor cap were worn and there was a contact problem there. I replaced both and the problem was solved. Might help, hope so.

Regards

Andrew
 
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Russel

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Thanks Andrew - I'd hoped it was just that. However cap & rotor are reasonably new & still look in good condition plus I've given them a good cleaning.

I'd have thought that an ignition problem would have affected the actual cold starting (& also hot running to perhaps a lesser degree). Both these are fine - it's the running from just after cold starting up to a reasonably warm engine thats the problem.

Regards
Russell
 

C220GJS

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1995 W202 C220 Elegance
Just talking in general here as i don't know your particular engine, but it seems to me this could be to do with the coolant temperature sender which gives a signal to the ECU. If the symptoms are only apparent during the warm up period I would look here. Try disconnecting it and see if it makes any difference.
 

television

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You have KE injection I believe. there are many variants around 1989-90, I think your problems stem around the cold start valve and components, if you let me have your engine number,I will see if I have more info.

Malcolm
 
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Russel

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Malcolm,
Thanks for the advice.

The engine number is: 10298222153253

This morning the engine started instantly (as normal – it’s always started well) & then ran ok for about 100 yards – then back to the very rough running & apparent misfire.

This is particularly noticeable as the throttle is opened – less so at idle or at a constant speed (but it’s still there even then).

Again as before – when the temperature gets to just below 80 degrees on the gauge the problem disappears. I wonder if it’s any coincidence that the thermostat probably opens around 78 to 80 degrees.

Regards,
Russell
 

television

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It does seem fuel related, will look in the evening.

Malcolm
 

Blaqn

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I don't know how similar my car is to yours. Mine is a 230E auto 1986. My problem is very similar to yours. I have trouble starting when cold, and the throttle peddle doesn't like to be touched untill the engine is warm otherwise it stalls. Once warm the car runs fine. Is there any follow up to this thread and was a conclusion reached? I would be very interested to know the cure.
 

Ian B Walker

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300td
I am currently working on a 230e estate and have the same symptoms. Upon closer examination I found the spring from the idle actuator to body missing. replaced the spring and everything is back to normal
 

Bolide

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Did you replace the rotor arm and distributor cap with Mercedes parts or 3rd party?

I'd agree it's ignition-based and suggest you check the advance & retard is working properly (I'm asuming it's mechanical if it has a distributor).I'd also try a different set of HT leads, plugs, distributor cap & rotor arm if you can

Have you replaced the condensor? Have the contacts closed upon the points (I'm asuming it has points if it has a distributor)?

One of those old-style Crypton Analysers might be useful here...

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

Blaqn

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Ian B Walker said:
I am currently working on a 230e estate and have the same symptoms. Upon closer examination I found the spring from the idle actuator to body missing. replaced the spring and everything is back to normal

All the springs around the throttle linkage seem to be fine and work well. I asume this is the area you are reffering to. Worth a look though. (please let me know if I'm looking in the wrong area)
 

Blaqn

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Bolide said:
Did you replace the rotor arm and distributor cap with Mercedes parts or 3rd party?

I'd agree it's ignition-based and suggest you check the advance & retard is working properly (I'm asuming it's mechanical if it has a distributor).I'd also try a different set of HT leads, plugs, distributor cap & rotor arm if you can

Have you replaced the condensor? Have the contacts closed upon the points (I'm asuming it has points if it has a distributor)?

One of those old-style Crypton Analysers might be useful here...

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

I will check to see what I have regarding points etc.

Does Russel frequent this forum still?
 

Blaqn

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Rotor arm, cap etc all seem ok. But I have seen something that I don't know about. By the thermostat housing is a sensor type thing screwed into the engine. It has two tubes coming from it (I asume these are for conecting vacuum hoses to and that these are allowed or not to pass vacuum through one to the other when the other end of this device reaches certain temp). However I don't know where to conect the other end of the hoses to, could someone enlighten me please?
 

Ian B Walker

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300td
The straight up one fits to the distributor and the angled one fits to an inlet / outlet under the inlet manifold.
 

mattkh

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Hi
I think the air filter needs looking at.
 


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